Replacing motor mount for heavier outboard

Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
I had started another thread about choosing an outboard for my oday 22 and I thought it might help to follow up with another thread. I was asking if it was wize to put a 15 hp Mercury on my oday and I was advised not to do that for a lot of reasons. I took the advice and got this 4 cycle Honda 8 hp with a charging circuit built in. You might notice that the motor mount is not very heavy duty and I was afraid of the extra weight and torque. I decided to replace the motor mount and thought some others may be in the same boat or need to upgrade to a 4 stroke in the future. The wedge on the original mount was split in various places and I wanted to eliminate this possibility on the new wedge. I bought a half sheet of 5/8" exterior plywood and glued it up into a block with waterproof adhesive. The new wedge will be 12" X 12". I used the old wedge as a template and used double sided tape to hold the old wedge to the new block to keep the angle correct. I then sawed out the new block and slightly "scalloped" the side that goes on the transom to match the curves. I bought 3/8" stainless steel all thread which I will use to bolt the Garlick and the wedge together onto the transom using a 12" backing plate inside the transom. Here is what I have so far. It is ready to be coated with marine-tex and painted. For all I know this is how everybody solves this problem but I'm not sure. After I mount it I am going to sand the transom and repaint.
 

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Nov 26, 2012
2,315
Catalina 250 Bodega Bay CA
David: I posted on the old thread. Sand, primer, sand if the fills are so thin. Chief
 
Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
Thanks Chief. I read it. The pits are a bit too deep to sand, primer, sand but not by much.I just put on a skim coat of marine tex. It actually is about the consistency of sheet rock mud and goes on beautifully. I sort of jumped the gun and didn't try a test scrap first to see how it sands but it is literally almost paper thin so it shouldn't be a problem. I'll stretch my air lines out there tomorrow and hit it with the DA sander. I'll let you know how the stuff works. If the weather holds up I may get my wedge mounted tomorrow. Can you suggest a good bedding compound? I have a tube of lifecaulk which would probably work. I'm not really worried much about water leaking into the boat because everything has been plugged up. I will of course need to put something on the through bolts. Again, lifecaulk? I used that many years ago on my Chesapeake dead rise and it really seemed like some pretty good stuff. It didn't seem to ever harden or peel away from anything. I don't want to use anything that will make it impossible to get the wedge off if I ever need to. Oh, I bought this Danforth today at a yard sale for $10.00. I must be living right. Thanks.
 

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Nov 26, 2012
2,315
Catalina 250 Bodega Bay CA
David: Really top buy on that anchor! I have one and they work great. Buy you a can of that galvanized stuff and freshen it up with ia coat of that stuff. Sounds like you got it all figured out. Get 'er done! Chief
 
Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
Yes Zeradog I did. It was the only thing I had that would do it. My table saw did not have a large enough blade to make it through. My table saw is a very old model from Sears with 9" blades (go figure) and a 10" saw would probably do fine cutting from both sides. I used a 1" wide blade in the band saw to try to keep the blade from walking. I realize that a lot of folks don't have a band saw that will accept 1" blades but a table saw would work fine. There was very little sanding to do other then to scallop the back slightly. Any sanding that was done other then the scalloping was done on a very cheap Harbor Freight 6" belt sander with some 80 grit paper. Kind of like a poor man's jointer. I don't have high end wood tools because over the years I have sunk all my money in metalworking tools (lathes, mills etc) because that's what I do most. This could be made with a good handsaw if you took frequent breaks to rest your arm. By good I mean sharp. It's amazing what you can do with a sharp handsaw as seen in antique furniture. All cut by hand and very precise. If you used a table saw to cut from both sides even though it did not cut all the way through, a handsaw would finish the cut and be assured of the accuracy needed. This thing is not very precise at all really nor does it need to be. If it looks good and fits the transom, it's going to work. It's not rocket surgery. Thanks.
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Ok, next steps…

It appears your plywood is fir plywood. That stuff will check and crack no matter what. I would absolutely coat it liberally with neat epoxy (West System, MAS, Raka, whichever…) and then cover it in several coats of fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Lay each new coat on while the previous layer is still "green," or rather soft but not sticky, to get a chemical bond. Of course, you'll have to rout and round over all the corners so the glass will lay. If you were just to coat the plywood with epoxy, even 2 coats, it will crack and check. Encasing it with glass cloth and epoxy will hold all the epoxy together to prevent moisture getting in better, and it will also give some more structural strength to resist pressure of the mount pressing in the wood, etc.

If you really wanted to go nuts, overbore the all thread holes and fill with colloidal silica thickened epoxy, then redrill correct sized holes. This seals all wood penetrations, and limits the chances for rot on down the road.

As for bedding material, Bed-it Butyl tape is the way to go: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

Good find on the cheap Danforth. It will be a good lunch hook, or a secondary hook to hold the stern off a beach or something like that. However, if you're looking for an overnight anchor, or something for more cruising, I would recommend a "new generation" anchor such as a Rocna, Mantus, or Manson Supreme (which is kind of a knock off of a Rocna.) Danforths don't work well in weeds, and they generally don't reset if there's a big swing in direction. So tides are a concern. These other new generation anchors set quickly and securely, and deal with weeds pretty well, and also reset remarkably well.
 
Nov 26, 2012
2,315
Catalina 250 Bodega Bay CA
Brian S: Danforths are not cheap anchors and that one looks like the real deal rather than a knockoff. They set well in many conditions including weeds, mud, sand, small rock, reset well and I don't think you know much about using a Danforth if you call them a lunch hook! A lunch hook is usually a smaller anchor of many types and about 8 lbs for boats of my size. If its the 13 or 15lb it will work fine on his boat. What they do not do well in is rock, but maybe you would like to tell us which of those anchors you mention works well in rock? Chief
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Chief, thanks for weighing in with your info. (See what I did there? Weighing in, like weighing anchor? :D:D:D)

My research suggests that the so called "new generation" anchors I mentioned far outclass a Danforth for cruisers who need to quickly set and rely on an anchor. I grew up with Danforths, and they held the family runabout in place in sand and mud. I personally hate Danforths now, because they are terrible to store in small boats. Anyone who is concerned about anchoring will do their own research. I've heard one of the better anchors for rock is a Northill. I can guarantee you won't find a CQR on any of my boats. There is a Danforth stuffed down in the well under the V-berth, and it did hold the stern off the steep beach recently. The little Lewmar Claw I have has done me fine so far, but it doesn't get tested in conditions. At such time as I do see tidal and wind conditions where my boat needs to stay where I put her, I'll be getting a Mantus or Manson Supreme.

A discussion of ground tackle is almost as bad as a discussion on religion or politics. :poke: And you know, that's ok. :D:D:D (Heh, on another forum, we've had blowout epic wars whether a downhaul or a Cunningham is better. :stirthepot: ) And that Danforth will do fine in the right situations.
 
Nov 26, 2012
2,315
Catalina 250 Bodega Bay CA
Brian: What part of the US is also a big factor on the type of anchor a sailor uses. Danforth style anchors are used extensively on the west coast. Chief
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Chief, I think Danforths are pretty common on the East coast as well. Most small boats I see have Danforth style anchors. Many bigger boats I see have a Lewmar Delta on the roller.

I was kinda thinking about this, and I vaguely remembered some history of the Danforth, cribbed from some book or other I must have read 20 years ago... And, I was also thinking about my Grandfather. So I looked on Wikipedia to see "American Richard Danforth invented and developed the "Danforth" pattern in the 1940s, a return to the symmetrical concept but with very large flat plate flukes. This anchor offers very good holding power for its weight (high efficiency) but does not perform well in other respects, meaning that it is not a good general purpose anchor. The original Danforth is still manufactured and sold by Tie Down Engineering in the USA." (I quote this only to show my evolution on anchors, not that Wikipedia's "does not perform well in other respects" is any justification for or against Danforths.)

So, remembering my Grandfather getting out of WWII, and boating through the 50's, I can imagine that at the time, the "new style" lightweight Danforth probably had much appeal for him. And, he never needed a cruising anchor, because he never anchored out for any length of time. It's what we had around, and it did its job well.

In the interim, he has passed away, before the internet became a widely available information source, and so he never really knew about any other anchor design developments after the Danforth.

But I remember some guys on a British small boat forum I frequent, talking about how they store their ground tackle and anchor in a bucket up under the foredeck. And I couldn't understand how in the world they could put a Danforth in a bucket, for one thing, and if they had a large enough bucket, how they could keep it from falling over and putting a spine through the hull. That's when I started to learn about other anchor types, such as CQRs, Bruces and the like. And I found I could get a small Bruce that worked well, and fit into a bucket up under my foredeck.

Fast forward a few years, and now I'm learning about Deltas, Rocnas, and Mantus. And there are videos of people trying to demonstrate how they work. Much of this stuff seems to make sense to me. Even though Granddad never had chain on his anchor, I've got 1 boat length, even though it's heavy, because I see how it can help keep the shank down, and prevent chafe on an all rope warp. It's all somewhat funny to me, because I have no need of a storm anchor, but I try to prepare my stuff for worst case scenarios. Do I need to anchor through a storm? Probably not, I can probably outrun it home to the marina, given it's only a few miles on our lake. But, I've got this funny worst case mindset :D

It's all an evolution, and if it makes sense to me, I'll use it. I hope to share what works, and what makes sense to me. If someone comes up with good reasons why not, I'm all for it. If someone I know routinely experiences worse situations than me, and uses an anchor, trusts it and never has a bad set or a drag, well, I'm gonna lean in that direction next time I need a new anchor!
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Oh, heck. Chief and I have effectively hijacked this thread. Sorry.
 
Nov 26, 2012
2,315
Catalina 250 Bodega Bay CA
Brian: I think we have worn out the motor mount theme anyway. I too use lots of chain and when you want to see how great it works just dive down and watch your anchor with a pull on it. Its real interesting to see how your anchor, chain and rode works! Chief
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,833
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
No opinion on the anchor other than a nice find.

As to the wedge, it looks pretty good. I agree with Brian about using some epoxy and cloth to cover it, over drilling, filling with epoxy and re drilling the holes and using the butyl tape for sealing around the bolts.

Once you get that mounted no more worry about losing that OB.
 
Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
Please don't apologize for stealing the thread. Not a problem for me. A small Danforth came with the boat but it only weighed 6.5 pounds and that I would consider a lunch hook. This one is more like 18 pounds and yes it is a genuine Danforth. I really don't have much experience with them as my previous boat was a lot bigger and older (had kerosene running lights) and had what I would consider the classic big hook anchor. It weighed 80 pounds and worked quite well in the mud in the Chesapeake Bay. There are no rocky areas around here that I know of. I drilled the holes in the wedge today to match up with the Garelick mount but I have not drilled the transom yet. Probably will not do that until next week as I am going canoeing on the upper James River this weekend. Thanks so much for all your help