Replacing Mainsheet Traveler

[bommers]

Hi - I'm replacing my factory mainsheet traveler from a 1981 Hunter 30. It's a midboom setup with the slightly rounded traveler just forward of the companionway. Will be replacing with a Garhauer traveler. If I replace with a flat track, I will need to build up the the ends where the teak pads are about 3/4" on each side so that a flat track clears the middle.

My question is regarding how to build up the ends and attach. There were two long threaded bolts on each end of the traveler. My guess is that there is an aluminum plate underneath which carries the stress of the traveler. So can I epoxy another 3/4" of teak on top of each, and drill and tap new holes for new traveler? How about one of the curved Garhauer tracks instead...I read a flat track is better for sliding of the car. I'm looking at the Garhauer MT2 and MTUB2. See my pics fo deconstruction.

Thanks for any help!

Paul

 

[Steve Dion]

Regardless of the track that you decide on, Garhauer makes stands that you can attach the track to. I would contact Garhauer for technical advise.

 

[Dalliance]

I installed a new Garhauer traveler on my '82 H30 in 2010 and I am very happy with it. Talk to Mark at Garhauer. I just removed my old track, sent it to them and they made the new track to match the curve and hole spacing. There is no need to change to an elevated flat track. Unless you want to.

 

[bommers]

Thanks for showing the pic Dalliance, looks nice. Do you know what model that track is?

 

[SamLust]

I can't see the need for a curved track. Does your boom move in a arc side to side? Go with Garhauer's risers. It makes a very nice set-up. Note; My control lines run off the starboard side and back by the wheel. I can adjust without leaving the wheel.

 

[Steve Dion]

The other advantage of going with a straight track is you could use the Garhauer MT-UBx traveler system.

 

[Dalliance]

It's the MT-1CT. I wanted to stay true to Mr. Cherubini's design, as well as keep installation simple, and this was the model that Garhuaer recommended for the boat. Pretty gentle curve to it. The center can't be more than about 1.5" higher than the ends. The straight track will be great too, though you will have some old screw holes to fill in on the campanionway cover. Call Mark Felgenhauer at 909-985-9993.

 

[H30Gary]

Bommers -
You are correct that the screws on the ends of the traveller secure to drilled and tapped holes in the aluminum plates below the teak. On my boat there were two 10-24 screws at each end. Yours look the same. I switched to 1/4-20 machine screws as I just didn't think long skinny 10-24s were beefey enough for the load. The 10-24s were also frozen in the aluminum and snapped off when I tried to remove them - I think 1/4-20s will be less likely to twist off (and I put plenty of anticorrosion stuff on them). Since the 1/4-20s wouldn't fit thru the holes in the traveller line turning blocks, I bolted the track directly to the deck (without going thru the traveller blocks), then separately bolted the traveller blocks to the traveller track.

 

[bommers]

Ordered a MT2 ct yesterday with garhauer. The rise of track is only 5/8 " at center, so a curved track this slight should perform well. And will just bolt into place. Thanks all for advice.

Is there also aluminum plate at rear of cabin top where brakes and cleats are? I will be doing upgrades there also. Cam cleats for traveler track car for starters.

 

[Dalliance]

Yes. There is aluminum plate in the cabin top to both sides of the companionway. My cabin top winches, rope clutches and traveler clam cleats are all screwed into aluminum. The area with aluminum is slightly raised (On my '82 anyway.) so you can pretty much read where it is.

 

[H30Gary]

Ditto what D said. I relocated some hardware associated with the traveller on my boat and upgraded to 1/4-20 bolts (2 at each end) to fasten the traveller to the deck. You have to drill thriu some fiberglas before you hit the aluminum plate, which I guess is 1/4" thick or so. Below the aluminum is a void or some soft material, then the top of the cabin sole. Its easy enough to tell when the drill bit hits the aluminum (you start seeing aluminum shavings) and then you can sort of feel the bit pop out the other side of the plate.