Does anyone have a list of sizes and lengths of lines and halyards to replace those on the H23. Thanks
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Bill Jones
H23 Lines
Contact Hunter Marine. They will send you a spec sheet of all lines and sizes for your model. Bill Jones
Contact Hunter Marine. They will send you a spec sheet of all lines and sizes for your model. Bill Jones
I just got new halyards
I went with 5/16 Staset-X (low stretch). Regular Staset is good too, and I would have bought it except the X was on sale for the same price. To calculate the length you need, figure twice the mast height and add 10 or 12 extra feet. The extra length will come in handy when the halyards start to wear at the masthead sheaves. Cutting 2 or 3 ft off the sail end will put new line on the sheaves. You can do this every year or so for the next 3 or 4 years and still not have to replace the whole halyard. Peter S/V Raven
I went with 5/16 Staset-X (low stretch). Regular Staset is good too, and I would have bought it except the X was on sale for the same price. To calculate the length you need, figure twice the mast height and add 10 or 12 extra feet. The extra length will come in handy when the halyards start to wear at the masthead sheaves. Cutting 2 or 3 ft off the sail end will put new line on the sheaves. You can do this every year or so for the next 3 or 4 years and still not have to replace the whole halyard. Peter S/V Raven
The sheets are a little trickier
I would suggest that you measure your mainsheet and then get the same size and length line that you have now (with a extra few feet so you can cut off to adjust for wear as time goes by). Jibsheet size will depend on sail size and wind conditions, 5/16 is good for most conditions. You can go up to 3/8 if you have a large genoa or are going to be working in heavier wind. If you sail without gloves, larger line is a little easier to grip. Peter S/V Raven
I would suggest that you measure your mainsheet and then get the same size and length line that you have now (with a extra few feet so you can cut off to adjust for wear as time goes by). Jibsheet size will depend on sail size and wind conditions, 5/16 is good for most conditions. You can go up to 3/8 if you have a large genoa or are going to be working in heavier wind. If you sail without gloves, larger line is a little easier to grip. Peter S/V Raven
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Rodney
How do you install new halyards?
I haven't had to do this yet. What do you do, just tie the new one onto the old one and pull it through? Thanks
I haven't had to do this yet. What do you do, just tie the new one onto the old one and pull it through? Thanks
Replacing halyards
There are two ways to do this; a) sew the old and new halyards together with sail thread and tape the joint securely b) using sheet bends, tie about 12" of twine between the old and new halyards so the ends are about 6" apart, then tape the ends of the halyards to the twine so they will run over the sheaves without fouling. I prefer this method because the joint between the old and new halyards is not as stiff, so it is less likely to jump off the sheaves. Pull the old halyard from the shackle end until the end of the new halyard is back on deck, then cut the old shackle off and secure to the new halyard using a buntline hitch. Peter S/V Raven
There are two ways to do this; a) sew the old and new halyards together with sail thread and tape the joint securely b) using sheet bends, tie about 12" of twine between the old and new halyards so the ends are about 6" apart, then tape the ends of the halyards to the twine so they will run over the sheaves without fouling. I prefer this method because the joint between the old and new halyards is not as stiff, so it is less likely to jump off the sheaves. Pull the old halyard from the shackle end until the end of the new halyard is back on deck, then cut the old shackle off and secure to the new halyard using a buntline hitch. Peter S/V Raven
Beware of tight clearances in masthead!
I tried replacing my halyards this weekend by tying a light line between the old and new halyards. The main halyard went fine but the jib halyard jammed in the masthead. There is very little clearance for these lines, so I guess sewing the lines together is the better way to go. It's not a disaster (yet) as I was planning to unstep the mast this coming weekend to replace my Windex. Peter S/V Raven
I tried replacing my halyards this weekend by tying a light line between the old and new halyards. The main halyard went fine but the jib halyard jammed in the masthead. There is very little clearance for these lines, so I guess sewing the lines together is the better way to go. It's not a disaster (yet) as I was planning to unstep the mast this coming weekend to replace my Windex. Peter S/V Raven
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Rodney
Replacing Halyards With Mast Down: Easier?
What makes it easier to replace halyards with the mast unstepped? Is it only because you can help the splice around the tight clearances at the mast head roller? If the mast is down you are still working with lines hidden in the mast, and I'm curious as how to replace a halyard if it breaks, and you have nothing to tie or sew the new line onto.
What makes it easier to replace halyards with the mast unstepped? Is it only because you can help the splice around the tight clearances at the mast head roller? If the mast is down you are still working with lines hidden in the mast, and I'm curious as how to replace a halyard if it breaks, and you have nothing to tie or sew the new line onto.
Reply to Rodney
It's easier to replace the halyards with the mast up. Connecting the old and new halyards together allows the new one to follow the exact route of the old one, so you know you won't foul the VHF antenna lead or the electrical wiring in the mast. Now, if the connection between the two halyards gets hung up at the sheave you will be in trouble. This is what happened to me, and while I was trying to free the halyard, I broke the connection and both halyards fell to the deck. Now I have to unstep the mast, fish the halyard through with an electrician's wire gizmo and then check to make sure I am not fouling any of the wires in the mast. I think the people at the marina are going to have a first-hand lesson in why sailors have a reputation for colorful swearing. Peter S/V Raven
It's easier to replace the halyards with the mast up. Connecting the old and new halyards together allows the new one to follow the exact route of the old one, so you know you won't foul the VHF antenna lead or the electrical wiring in the mast. Now, if the connection between the two halyards gets hung up at the sheave you will be in trouble. This is what happened to me, and while I was trying to free the halyard, I broke the connection and both halyards fell to the deck. Now I have to unstep the mast, fish the halyard through with an electrician's wire gizmo and then check to make sure I am not fouling any of the wires in the mast. I think the people at the marina are going to have a first-hand lesson in why sailors have a reputation for colorful swearing. Peter S/V Raven
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