I have had a leak of fresh water coolant due to chafing of the 5/8" Shieldflex hoses that go between the Yanmar 2GM20F engine and the Seward hot water heater under the aft dining bench seat on my Hunter 33.5 (1990). I have bought new hose to replace the existing hoses. Plan A was to tie the new hoses to the old hoses and use the old to pull the new ones thru. They run under the decking and the "grid pan" under the galley. They would not budge in either direction. Right after they passed thru a fiberglass stringer they made an immeadiate 90 degree turn up and went to the water heater. Plan B, to releive that bend, I cut a rectangular slot in the plywood decking under the dining seat. Still no luck in getting them to move. So far, Plan C,I have removed the entire dining seat, the Rule emergency bildge pump, the hot water haeter, and the plywood decking under the heater. Still cant get the hoses to budge. Does any H-33.5 owner have any idea how the ran the hoses thru the grid? Plan D is to consider having the yard do some Hole Saw cutting to creat a new pathway for the new hoses. Any advice or suggestions would be most welcome. Thanks
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been there
I have been there I did this job for the same reason this spring. I first tried the less evasive measures before I completely removed every thing like you the dinette. Finally what worked was taking a extended socket of inner hose size + some and planting it in both hoses use the wire from one hose "A" and weave through replacement hose then I duct taped about a foot in either direction being careful not to make the join to thick. I pulled the old hose as far as possible to the engine being careful not to loss enough end from the heat exchanger side. I applied electricians wire puller slime to the hose jackets the tape join and sprayed it in the hx side. I noticed that the hertal was some wire from starboard to fuse panel. I pushed a small stick in and pushed down on that when pulling hoses. I would also twist hosing from right to left to work it trough, after that repeat steps with second hose. One step I forgot to mention was that I duct tape a small line to old hose for in case connection broke at least there would be a line to pull a bigger one and so on. I did not have a step decided if this didn't work though I thought about running hose through the bilge but I think this will work. be sure to use at least 100 in I think measurement was 96 in of hose. good luck
I have been there I did this job for the same reason this spring. I first tried the less evasive measures before I completely removed every thing like you the dinette. Finally what worked was taking a extended socket of inner hose size + some and planting it in both hoses use the wire from one hose "A" and weave through replacement hose then I duct taped about a foot in either direction being careful not to make the join to thick. I pulled the old hose as far as possible to the engine being careful not to loss enough end from the heat exchanger side. I applied electricians wire puller slime to the hose jackets the tape join and sprayed it in the hx side. I noticed that the hertal was some wire from starboard to fuse panel. I pushed a small stick in and pushed down on that when pulling hoses. I would also twist hosing from right to left to work it trough, after that repeat steps with second hose. One step I forgot to mention was that I duct tape a small line to old hose for in case connection broke at least there would be a line to pull a bigger one and so on. I did not have a step decided if this didn't work though I thought about running hose through the bilge but I think this will work. be sure to use at least 100 in I think measurement was 96 in of hose. good luck
H.W. Heater Hoses Replacement
Thank you Matthew. I will try some of those techniques. I had bought about 1 Ft. of reinforced vinyl tobing that fit very snuggly into the ID of the Shieldflex 5/8" hoses. I was then going to put 3 SS Wood Screws thru the hose and into the tubing in 3 places (about 120 degrees apart) at the new hose end and at the old hose end to ensure that each hose grabbed the tubing. I had not tried rotating the hoses left to right as you did, but I will. The holes in the FG stringers are just slightly larger than the hose. The one wire that may be in there is the 120V AC to the Seaward Water Heater. Thanks for you input and response. Dick
Thank you Matthew. I will try some of those techniques. I had bought about 1 Ft. of reinforced vinyl tobing that fit very snuggly into the ID of the Shieldflex 5/8" hoses. I was then going to put 3 SS Wood Screws thru the hose and into the tubing in 3 places (about 120 degrees apart) at the new hose end and at the old hose end to ensure that each hose grabbed the tubing. I had not tried rotating the hoses left to right as you did, but I will. The holes in the FG stringers are just slightly larger than the hose. The one wire that may be in there is the 120V AC to the Seaward Water Heater. Thanks for you input and response. Dick
Just another suggestion.
If the reason for total hose replacement is a small section of chafed hose that is accessible, you may want to consider cutting away the damaged hose and connecting a new one at that point. This will leave most of the old hose intact. Heater hose couplings are available at most auto parts stores. This assumes the old hose is alright except for the damaged area.
If the reason for total hose replacement is a small section of chafed hose that is accessible, you may want to consider cutting away the damaged hose and connecting a new one at that point. This will leave most of the old hose intact. Heater hose couplings are available at most auto parts stores. This assumes the old hose is alright except for the damaged area.
Thanks Alan of LI Re Water Heater Hoses
Thanks Alan. I will consider that as a fallback position. Idealy I would like to replace the whole 8' to 9' lenghts. But, I could try your suggestion and try to do some sort of pressure test to be sure it's not leaking "somewhere out of sight". This has been very frustrating considering that it looked like a straight forward replacement task.
Thanks Alan. I will consider that as a fallback position. Idealy I would like to replace the whole 8' to 9' lenghts. But, I could try your suggestion and try to do some sort of pressure test to be sure it's not leaking "somewhere out of sight". This has been very frustrating considering that it looked like a straight forward replacement task.
Dick
To pressure test the entire cooling system you can put a Stant cooling system pressure tester on the overflow tank. Pump it up to 12 to 15 psi and see if it holds constant. As long as the hoses are in good shape and the pressure remains steady your done. Going through all that extra headache for the sake of replacing hoses that don't need to be replaced seems like a waste of effort.
To pressure test the entire cooling system you can put a Stant cooling system pressure tester on the overflow tank. Pump it up to 12 to 15 psi and see if it holds constant. As long as the hoses are in good shape and the pressure remains steady your done. Going through all that extra headache for the sake of replacing hoses that don't need to be replaced seems like a waste of effort.
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