I think/know it's time to replace my head hoses. anyone tried to do this on a H31. It looks like I'll need to splice the old hose with the new to get it thru the bulkhead. should I wait until it's out of the water or does this look worse then it really is??? any advice recent experiances ??
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
I'd wait till the weather cools off a bit...
You'll sweat a lot less...but there's no reason why a boat has to be out of the wate to change sanitation hoses...or replace the toilet...or install a holding tank or treatment device (unless you also have to install a new thru-hull or seacock.
You'll sweat a lot less...but there's no reason why a boat has to be out of the wate to change sanitation hoses...or replace the toilet...or install a holding tank or treatment device (unless you also have to install a new thru-hull or seacock.
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Eric Steege
A dirty smelly 1/2 a day
I replaced my head hoses on my 1984 Hunter 31 this spring. It was not too terrible, and I am glad it is done. It took about 4 hours with 3 people to complete the job. It is a smelly messy job, but it is not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I didn't have to splice anything. I bought WAY TOO MUCH sanitary hose, which is REALLY expensive. I probably have enough left to do the how job again. We only replaced the running hose, not the vent hoses. But, it sure did the trick. The entire odor is gone. I am very pleased. Make sure it is SANITARY hose; otherwise your odor problem will return in one season. Here is what I did. First I bought the hose. It was hard to measure the correct amount that I needed, because the existing hose is hard to measure while in. It might save you a couple hundred dollars if you took out the old hose first, and then measured the length. It was more important to me that I got the whole job done in one session, so I estimated (over estimated) the length and bought it all before I removed the old hose. It was very difficult to remove the old hose, as there is very little room in the areas where the hose connects. I removed the head to make it easier to thread the old hose out and the new in. Under the front bunk, through the access door, you have to lay on your back or side and stick your head inside the compartment. Once the clamps are off, you still have to break the seal to get the old hose off. There is not much elbowroom, so it is difficult. I was lucky not to break the tank fittings. That was my biggest worry. Installing the new hose represented the second largest challenge. I had to wiggle the new hose through the hull. This took a while, and at times I didn't think it would fit. But eventually it worked its way through. I think a little Vaseline would have helped, but I did not have it available. Reconnecting the hose was VERY tough. Again, some Vaseline might have helped, but I am not sure that the Vaseline would be good for the seal??? I would suggest (although I did not do it) that you replace the head at the same time, if you have an older head. It would have been real convenient, and if your boat is as old as mine, your hand pump probably sticks. A rebuild kit is another option. I did disassemble, clean, and reassemble the head while I had it out. (This rebuild was not done in the stated 4 hours -- I took it home and returned it on the next trip.) All that I have read says that I should have replaced the vent hoses too, but the hook ups for this were too complicated for me to deal with, and I was afraid that I would not get it back together. But, the smell is gone, and that is what I was looking for. I did the job in the spring, when the temperature was in the 60’s, and I was still dripping with sweat. It is a tough job. I would hate to do it in the summer. The sweat factor is bad enough, but to have the increased odor associated with the heat would be worse. One of my buddies did most of the really dirty work, and he was sick for two days afterwards. I am certain that his body was unhappy with the unsanitary exposure. Be careful! If you have odor, do the job. You will be pleased. Let me know if you need more information. Regards, Eric Steege “Perfect Union” Hunter 31 “I love this boat!”
I replaced my head hoses on my 1984 Hunter 31 this spring. It was not too terrible, and I am glad it is done. It took about 4 hours with 3 people to complete the job. It is a smelly messy job, but it is not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I didn't have to splice anything. I bought WAY TOO MUCH sanitary hose, which is REALLY expensive. I probably have enough left to do the how job again. We only replaced the running hose, not the vent hoses. But, it sure did the trick. The entire odor is gone. I am very pleased. Make sure it is SANITARY hose; otherwise your odor problem will return in one season. Here is what I did. First I bought the hose. It was hard to measure the correct amount that I needed, because the existing hose is hard to measure while in. It might save you a couple hundred dollars if you took out the old hose first, and then measured the length. It was more important to me that I got the whole job done in one session, so I estimated (over estimated) the length and bought it all before I removed the old hose. It was very difficult to remove the old hose, as there is very little room in the areas where the hose connects. I removed the head to make it easier to thread the old hose out and the new in. Under the front bunk, through the access door, you have to lay on your back or side and stick your head inside the compartment. Once the clamps are off, you still have to break the seal to get the old hose off. There is not much elbowroom, so it is difficult. I was lucky not to break the tank fittings. That was my biggest worry. Installing the new hose represented the second largest challenge. I had to wiggle the new hose through the hull. This took a while, and at times I didn't think it would fit. But eventually it worked its way through. I think a little Vaseline would have helped, but I did not have it available. Reconnecting the hose was VERY tough. Again, some Vaseline might have helped, but I am not sure that the Vaseline would be good for the seal??? I would suggest (although I did not do it) that you replace the head at the same time, if you have an older head. It would have been real convenient, and if your boat is as old as mine, your hand pump probably sticks. A rebuild kit is another option. I did disassemble, clean, and reassemble the head while I had it out. (This rebuild was not done in the stated 4 hours -- I took it home and returned it on the next trip.) All that I have read says that I should have replaced the vent hoses too, but the hook ups for this were too complicated for me to deal with, and I was afraid that I would not get it back together. But, the smell is gone, and that is what I was looking for. I did the job in the spring, when the temperature was in the 60’s, and I was still dripping with sweat. It is a tough job. I would hate to do it in the summer. The sweat factor is bad enough, but to have the increased odor associated with the heat would be worse. One of my buddies did most of the really dirty work, and he was sick for two days afterwards. I am certain that his body was unhappy with the unsanitary exposure. Be careful! If you have odor, do the job. You will be pleased. Let me know if you need more information. Regards, Eric Steege “Perfect Union” Hunter 31 “I love this boat!”
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Colin
But not too cool!
I replaced a couple of my hoses early in the year. Next time a would let the weather warm up a bit as the hoses are hard to bend when they are cold making a tricky job even harder. I know this goes against the other responses but when there are tight bends to negotiate the last thing you want is stiff hose.
I replaced a couple of my hoses early in the year. Next time a would let the weather warm up a bit as the hoses are hard to bend when they are cold making a tricky job even harder. I know this goes against the other responses but when there are tight bends to negotiate the last thing you want is stiff hose.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Recommended method
1. Measure the amount of new hose you'll need and buy it. Use sanitation hose throughout the entire system, including the toilet intake and tank vent. 2. Pump out and rinse out the holding tank VERY thoroughly. Adding C.P. to the rinse will remove most of the odor. Rinse out the entire system--the head, any macerators or manual pumps, and the hose VERY thoroughly--with lots and lots of clean water....C.P. helps here too. If the hoses REALLY stink, it helps to smear a healthy glob of Vicks Salve under your nose before you start....a cool day also helps. 3. Map out your plan before you remove a single hose. Now you're ready to start work: Remove the highest hose connection first to minimize drips, and stick plugs (available from any hardware store) in the ends of the hose. Work on only one hose at a time...and take each section of hose all the way off the boat as soon as you get it loose (your dockmates may insist you take it all the way off the dock!) . When taking a hose off a fitting, have a pan (disposable aluminum pans are good for this) under the connection to catch the drainage. Have lots of rags handy to mop up what misses the pan. Removing hoses becomes much easier if you'll heat them with a blow dryer to soften them up before trying to work them off. Unless you want to also replace all the fittings, do not pry them off with a screwdriver or saw them off...the screwdriver blade will dimple the fitting and the saw will cut into it, and the new hose won't seal. It's much easier to pull new hose through inaccessible places if you connect it to the old hose and pull the new through as you pull the old out. Use a male-to male connector...cement both hose ends onto it. Do not use hose clamps or anything that can get hung up as you pull the hose through, and be sure to butt the ends of the hose tightly together to create the smoothest uninterrupted surface possible. After you've pulled it through, cut the new hose cleanly behind the connector. To put the new hose onto fittings, heat the hose with a blow dryer to soften it--but be careful! You only want to soften it a bit, you don't want to melt it. Smear a little dish soap on the inside of the hose and the outside of the fitting to lubricate the connection. Don't use vaseline or any grease...and don't use ANY cement or sealant...only teflon tape on the fittings. Double clamp all the hose connections. And as long as you have the entire system apart, now would be an excellent time to either rebuild or replace your toilet. If it's more than 5 years old, and if you can replace it with the identical model for about the same price as two rebuild kits, I wouldn't bother to rebuild...I'd definitely replace.
1. Measure the amount of new hose you'll need and buy it. Use sanitation hose throughout the entire system, including the toilet intake and tank vent. 2. Pump out and rinse out the holding tank VERY thoroughly. Adding C.P. to the rinse will remove most of the odor. Rinse out the entire system--the head, any macerators or manual pumps, and the hose VERY thoroughly--with lots and lots of clean water....C.P. helps here too. If the hoses REALLY stink, it helps to smear a healthy glob of Vicks Salve under your nose before you start....a cool day also helps. 3. Map out your plan before you remove a single hose. Now you're ready to start work: Remove the highest hose connection first to minimize drips, and stick plugs (available from any hardware store) in the ends of the hose. Work on only one hose at a time...and take each section of hose all the way off the boat as soon as you get it loose (your dockmates may insist you take it all the way off the dock!) . When taking a hose off a fitting, have a pan (disposable aluminum pans are good for this) under the connection to catch the drainage. Have lots of rags handy to mop up what misses the pan. Removing hoses becomes much easier if you'll heat them with a blow dryer to soften them up before trying to work them off. Unless you want to also replace all the fittings, do not pry them off with a screwdriver or saw them off...the screwdriver blade will dimple the fitting and the saw will cut into it, and the new hose won't seal. It's much easier to pull new hose through inaccessible places if you connect it to the old hose and pull the new through as you pull the old out. Use a male-to male connector...cement both hose ends onto it. Do not use hose clamps or anything that can get hung up as you pull the hose through, and be sure to butt the ends of the hose tightly together to create the smoothest uninterrupted surface possible. After you've pulled it through, cut the new hose cleanly behind the connector. To put the new hose onto fittings, heat the hose with a blow dryer to soften it--but be careful! You only want to soften it a bit, you don't want to melt it. Smear a little dish soap on the inside of the hose and the outside of the fitting to lubricate the connection. Don't use vaseline or any grease...and don't use ANY cement or sealant...only teflon tape on the fittings. Double clamp all the hose connections. And as long as you have the entire system apart, now would be an excellent time to either rebuild or replace your toilet. If it's more than 5 years old, and if you can replace it with the identical model for about the same price as two rebuild kits, I wouldn't bother to rebuild...I'd definitely replace.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Colin, when there are tight bends,
Break the hose and insert an inline radius fitting. Bending hose tighter than it wants to go reduces the diameter, creating a potential for a clog and can, in time, result in a kinked hose.
Break the hose and insert an inline radius fitting. Bending hose tighter than it wants to go reduces the diameter, creating a potential for a clog and can, in time, result in a kinked hose.
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Pete Burger
hoses
Peggy, what is an inline radius fitting? I have continuing problems with my A/C and refrigerator water intake hoses, forcing me to bend them more than I (or they) want due to the fact that the through-hulls and the strainers are too close together, and there is no place to move them.
Peggy, what is an inline radius fitting? I have continuing problems with my A/C and refrigerator water intake hoses, forcing me to bend them more than I (or they) want due to the fact that the through-hulls and the strainers are too close together, and there is no place to move them.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Inline radius fittings are...
just what the name implies. Inline, means they have hose barbs on both ends so they can be installed in a line. A radius is a fitting that curves 45 or 90 degrees instead of a sharp 90 degree angle turn. Plumbing supply houses carry them...often in more than just 45 or 90 degrees.
just what the name implies. Inline, means they have hose barbs on both ends so they can be installed in a line. A radius is a fitting that curves 45 or 90 degrees instead of a sharp 90 degree angle turn. Plumbing supply houses carry them...often in more than just 45 or 90 degrees.
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Dennis Broome
To Eric of "Perfect Union"
I have a 84 Hunter 31- What diameter & length hose do I need to complete the same job you referenced in your reply?
I have a 84 Hunter 31- What diameter & length hose do I need to complete the same job you referenced in your reply?
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