I'm replacing all the head hoses on my new-to-me boat. The current set up includes a T fitting where one hose leads to the deck pump out and the other leads to a pump followed by a vented loop then a thru-hull. Since the boat is on a lake, I'm thinking about by passing the entire pump and only running a new hose from the holding tank to the deck pump out. Is that a good idea, a bad idea, or does it really even matter? Thanks!
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That's the best way to do it in your waters.
And may be the only legal setup on your lake, 'cuz in some states it's not only illegal to dump a tank, it's illegal even to have any plumbing from it connected to a thru-hull. Whether that's the case on Kerr or not, you'll have no hassle if you're ever inspected. It'll also eliminate a whole bunch of plumbing you'll never use and save you the cost of some hose.
And may be the only legal setup on your lake, 'cuz in some states it's not only illegal to dump a tank, it's illegal even to have any plumbing from it connected to a thru-hull. Whether that's the case on Kerr or not, you'll have no hassle if you're ever inspected. It'll also eliminate a whole bunch of plumbing you'll never use and save you the cost of some hose.
same here
I replumbed the head hoses on my 1983 H30 and bypassed the thru hull. I rebedded it and capped it with a bronze cap so I could use it in the future if needed. (We're thinking of Moving to the east coast) It was pretty simple to do and since the hoses to the thru hull had just been replaced, I didn't have to buy any new hose.
I replumbed the head hoses on my 1983 H30 and bypassed the thru hull. I rebedded it and capped it with a bronze cap so I could use it in the future if needed. (We're thinking of Moving to the east coast) It was pretty simple to do and since the hoses to the thru hull had just been replaced, I didn't have to buy any new hose.
Avoid a T-junction
If you do decide to leave in the thru-hull to maintain both options, I would replace the T-junction with a Y-valve so the hose to thru-hull does not harbor waste. I just replaced the hoses on my 1980 H27, and the one thing you don't want is a stretch of hose where waste just sits after you pump it out (i.e. an dead-end hose that is not part of the circuit). Even after you pump out it will still be there and will make your boat stink. The PVC Y-valve runs about $50, but is worth it if you want to maintain both options.
If you do decide to leave in the thru-hull to maintain both options, I would replace the T-junction with a Y-valve so the hose to thru-hull does not harbor waste. I just replaced the hoses on my 1980 H27, and the one thing you don't want is a stretch of hose where waste just sits after you pump it out (i.e. an dead-end hose that is not part of the circuit). Even after you pump out it will still be there and will make your boat stink. The PVC Y-valve runs about $50, but is worth it if you want to maintain both options.
Another reason to go with y-valve instead of a tee
Dan's point is well taken, but an even better reason: a y-valve allows you to close off the flow of waste from the tank to replace the impeller or otherwise service the macerator pump...'cuz nobody has ever discovered that a macerator needs a new impeller when the tank is empty, only when they're trying to dump it and can't.
Dan's point is well taken, but an even better reason: a y-valve allows you to close off the flow of waste from the tank to replace the impeller or otherwise service the macerator pump...'cuz nobody has ever discovered that a macerator needs a new impeller when the tank is empty, only when they're trying to dump it and can't.
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