Replacing H240 stern portside mooring cleat

[Arnie53]

I sail on the Great Salt Lake in Utah and moor at the GSL marina. I now have had to replace the stern portside mooring cleat for the third time.
The steady wind just slowly works the cleat out of the imbedded aluminum panel. I have redrilled and retapped with increading sizes of screws, but they still pull out. Are there any suggestions as to how to fix this short of cutting an access panel from the ceiling of the back storage area?
Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you, and fair winds.
Arnie

 

[twalker H260]

Is there a bulkhead in the aft end similar to the 260? If so it would likely be removable with a few screws. This would allow you access to the back side of the cleats to install additional backing material. (If slim enough you can fit through access panels on 260)

Are the threads actually tearing out or are bolts backing out due to vibration and then wearing due to loose fittings?


this is the only Photo I can find of the aft bulkhead - Thanks to George Kobernus at h260.com.

https://www.h260.com/electric/web_electric_images/h260_electric_6.jpg

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

To refresh my memory, can you take a photo of cleat in relation to cockpit seat. When posted, send me a private message . This is unusual as a dealer who helped in the design. If you do not know me just ask the folks here.

 

[caverun]

I have not had to attempt this, but was contacted by another 240 owner who was able to install backing plates on her stern cleats by digging out the flotation foam that fills the area behind that part of the deck. It was not a pleasant job, but can be done. I think the cleats are aft of the rear bulkhead and liner, so access is not easy, but do not need to cut holes in liner. You could try poking a stiff wire through one of the bolt holes to penetrate the foam and see where to start digging.

 

[rgranger]

Are the threads actually tearing out or are bolts backing out due to vibration and then wearing due to loose fittings?

I had this same thought. Have you tried using one of the various "thread tight" products?... Or maybe wet the thread with gorilla glue before you insert the bolts.... put a drop of glue down in the hole? The direction of force on the cleat is more of a sheer than a pull so I can imagine the cleat rocking back and forth with some pull on the Z-axis. As soon as a bolt would start to get loose, it would then eventually work itself out and warble the hole in the process.

 

[Arnie53]

Thank all of you for your input. I hadn't even considered that the screws had loosened due to vibration and had not pulled out. I will check on this on the weekend and will report back with photos. I am hoping that the vibration issue is the case, as I am not interested in trying to remove the foam so that I can access the back of the cleat location.

Arnie

 

[twalker H260]

If aluminum plate is still taking threads you could try a thread insert to repair from outboard as well.

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[caverun]

Maybe @Chopper Pilot will see this and describe her experience doing this. Have not talked to her in a while.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Have reached out to her as that is specifically what I needed to know. I can then give a better response. Thank you @caverun Hope you are doing well.

Your friend Dave

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Foam behind cleat which is an issue. Sounds like vibration and wave action pulling on rear cleats. Not sure if motor could be a migitating factor as it depends on hp. I will be talking with owner. Will keep you all posted

 

[Arnie53]

Finally can report that I complete the reinstall of the port stern mooring clean on my H240. Over the winter, I was able to find the location of the cleat, cut an access panel, dig out the foam, and access the area where the cleat had been located. I had to remove the "fence" that defines the storage area in the stern from the berth under the cockpit so that I could get as far back as possible. After doing some measuring from the inside and comparing to measurements from the outside, I found a spot to cut the "ceiling" of the area. I had drilled the cleat holes through from the outside and had inserted long screws to help me find the holes in the midst of the foam. The foam was a nightmare. I cleaned out the holes from all the prior installations and then filled them with epoxy. I drilled new holes for a better location going through the aluminum plate that had been glassed in by Hunter. I had measured and fabricated an aluminum backing plate to match the area and the holes. Since the backing plate did not fit flush against the angle of the bulkhead, I filled the area behind the plate with Total Fair epoxy and then tightened the screws just until the epoxy began to be pushed out. After the epoxy had cured, I tightened the nylon lock nuts against the lock washer and washer. I had made a slight countersink under the cleat and used butyl rubber to seal the holes. After completing the install, I filled the void with spray-in foam and then covered the area with a plastic access panel which I held in place with silicon and gorilla tape while the silicon set.
This isn't a job I'd like to do again.

 

[Arnie53]

I must thank everyone who weighed in with advice on this project and especially to Crazy Dave for talking me through this.

Arnie

 

[Doug J]

Finally can report that I complete the reinstall of the port stern mooring clean on my H240. Over the winter, I was able to find the location of the cleat, cut an access panel, dig out the foam, and access the area where the cleat had been located. I had to remove the "fence" that defines the storage area in the stern from the berth under the cockpit so that I could get as far back as possible. After doing some measuring from the inside and comparing to measurements from the outside, I found a spot to cut the "ceiling" of the area. I had drilled the cleat holes through from the outside and had inserted long screws to help me find the holes in the midst of the foam. The foam was a nightmare. I cleaned out the holes from all the prior installations and then filled them with epoxy. I drilled new holes for a better location going through the aluminum plate that had been glassed in by Hunter. I had measured and fabricated an aluminum backing plate to match the area and the holes. Since the backing plate did not fit flush against the angle of the bulkhead, I filled the area behind the plate with Total Fair epoxy and then tightened the screws just until the epoxy began to be pushed out. After the epoxy had cured, I tightened the nylon lock nuts against the lock washer and washer. I had made a slight countersink under the cleat and used butyl rubber to seal the holes. After completing the install, I filled the void with spray-in foam and then covered the area with a plastic access panel which I held in place with silicon and gorilla tape while the silicon set.
This isn't a job I'd like to do again.

Great job! The only thing I would have done differently is leave the foam out, just in case you ever need access again. Missing that little bit of foam wouldn't affect anything negatively.