I have an 87 Hunter 31 that still has the original gate valve under the sink in the galley. I would like to replace it when I haul the boat out next week. The valve works great but I would feel better replacing it with a newer type valve. Any recommendations on the easiest way to get it off the thru hull fitting without messing the hull up? Appreciate any suggestions. ...Larry...
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Bill Ebling
Start Liquid Wrench Now
Did this about a month ago for the head discharge. See the string in the archives. The biggest problem is breaking the valve free without placing too much torque on the hull. Start soaking with thru-hull gate valve joint with liquid wrench NOW. Apply daily if practical. Don't wait until the last minute. It can take several days for LW to soak in and loosen things up. Once the LW has done its thing, removal should be quite simple with an appropriate pipe wrench. To protect the hull at the thru-hole when you do turn off the gate valve be prepared to have someone hold the outside of the thru-hole from the outside with a wedge placed up inside the thru-hole. (little slots inside the thru-hole will accept approriately sized bar that can be held with e.g. vice grips)
Did this about a month ago for the head discharge. See the string in the archives. The biggest problem is breaking the valve free without placing too much torque on the hull. Start soaking with thru-hull gate valve joint with liquid wrench NOW. Apply daily if practical. Don't wait until the last minute. It can take several days for LW to soak in and loosen things up. Once the LW has done its thing, removal should be quite simple with an appropriate pipe wrench. To protect the hull at the thru-hole when you do turn off the gate valve be prepared to have someone hold the outside of the thru-hole from the outside with a wedge placed up inside the thru-hole. (little slots inside the thru-hole will accept approriately sized bar that can be held with e.g. vice grips)
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Tom Madura
I'd like to do this, too
I just replaced the gate valve on the engine cooling intake thru-hull on my '85 31 last week, and the old valve came right off with one wrench on the thru-hull nut and one on the valve, no liquid wrench needed. (Of course, my boat has always been in fresh water, so the valve still looked like new when it came off!) My question about the galley sink drain valve is this: Is there enough room under there for a ball valve handle? A 1-1/2" ball valve has a really long handle, and even if you cut the floor out, is there enough room to throw the handle 90 degrees? Or is there another alternative?
I just replaced the gate valve on the engine cooling intake thru-hull on my '85 31 last week, and the old valve came right off with one wrench on the thru-hull nut and one on the valve, no liquid wrench needed. (Of course, my boat has always been in fresh water, so the valve still looked like new when it came off!) My question about the galley sink drain valve is this: Is there enough room under there for a ball valve handle? A 1-1/2" ball valve has a really long handle, and even if you cut the floor out, is there enough room to throw the handle 90 degrees? Or is there another alternative?
Handle swing.
Tom M: Our 1985 H'31 has a ball valve under the sink. We do need to lift the panel to turn it on/off. Had to make a cut out for the handle when it is open, but this is it.
Tom M: Our 1985 H'31 has a ball valve under the sink. We do need to lift the panel to turn it on/off. Had to make a cut out for the handle when it is open, but this is it.
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Tom Long
Replacing thru-hulls
Replaced all four thru hulls on our 86 H31 a couple of years ago with ball valves. Bit the bullet and had a local marina do it in the off season. Costs more, but if it leaks it's their problem to fix.
Replaced all four thru hulls on our 86 H31 a couple of years ago with ball valves. Bit the bullet and had a local marina do it in the off season. Costs more, but if it leaks it's their problem to fix.
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Tim Leighton
YOU ARE LUCKY!
Larry: I've got a 1985 '31 and keep it at the Naval Base sailing center. I replaced all my gate valves when the boat was just a year old and found all three (galley, head, engine H2O intake) were frozen....OPEN! Since we sail in the same water, I think you are very lucky! Get proper thru-hulls w/ single throw shutoff levers NOW! They are a piece of cake to install (although your old gate valves may be a bit hard to remove) and very cheap insurance. Good luck and we'll see you on the Bay! Tim (S/V "TIDE")
Larry: I've got a 1985 '31 and keep it at the Naval Base sailing center. I replaced all my gate valves when the boat was just a year old and found all three (galley, head, engine H2O intake) were frozen....OPEN! Since we sail in the same water, I think you are very lucky! Get proper thru-hulls w/ single throw shutoff levers NOW! They are a piece of cake to install (although your old gate valves may be a bit hard to remove) and very cheap insurance. Good luck and we'll see you on the Bay! Tim (S/V "TIDE")
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Tim Leighton
COUNTED WRONG
Larry: As you are well aware (and I forgot!), there are 2 thru-hulls in the head and yes, as Steve mentioned, you need to pay close attention to how the handles move when you replace them under the vanity. Mine sort of interlock when in the closed position which prevents me from opening just one. Still, not a hard thing to fix yourself. Tim
Larry: As you are well aware (and I forgot!), there are 2 thru-hulls in the head and yes, as Steve mentioned, you need to pay close attention to how the handles move when you replace them under the vanity. Mine sort of interlock when in the closed position which prevents me from opening just one. Still, not a hard thing to fix yourself. Tim
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Fred Luttrell
Gate Valves are junk
My gate valve under the sink broke just after the boat was launched one year. I tried to open it and the handle just striped with the valve shut. I just paid to put the boat in the water! after some thought and preperation I switched the gate valve with a full port ball valve while the boat was in the water. The key was that the gate valve turned off without breaking the truhull seal. I also had to be quick on the valve switch to minimize water squirt. I have since changed all gate valves to ball valves. this was a challange in the head.I had to open up the head sink enclosure to turn the gate valve. In all cases the thru hull fitting mantained hull seal while I removed the old gate valves.
My gate valve under the sink broke just after the boat was launched one year. I tried to open it and the handle just striped with the valve shut. I just paid to put the boat in the water! after some thought and preperation I switched the gate valve with a full port ball valve while the boat was in the water. The key was that the gate valve turned off without breaking the truhull seal. I also had to be quick on the valve switch to minimize water squirt. I have since changed all gate valves to ball valves. this was a challange in the head.I had to open up the head sink enclosure to turn the gate valve. In all cases the thru hull fitting mantained hull seal while I removed the old gate valves.
Seacocks.
I am sorry to hear that Hunter has been using cheap gate valves as seacocks. This is deplorable and in my experience is typically considered BELOW code by NMMA and the safety people. The world's best seacocks are what used to be marketed by Wilcox-CrittendenÐ all bronze, easy action, full 90-degree throw and used on the most significant endurance boats sailed in the 20th C. Remember that anything that can go wrong WILL. Anything nylon will freeze and crack. Anything steel is out of the question. Anything made of cheaper alloys will gall and break. Use only the very best hardware you can afford, especially when the integrity of your boat and your safety depends on it. JC
I am sorry to hear that Hunter has been using cheap gate valves as seacocks. This is deplorable and in my experience is typically considered BELOW code by NMMA and the safety people. The world's best seacocks are what used to be marketed by Wilcox-CrittendenÐ all bronze, easy action, full 90-degree throw and used on the most significant endurance boats sailed in the 20th C. Remember that anything that can go wrong WILL. Anything nylon will freeze and crack. Anything steel is out of the question. Anything made of cheaper alloys will gall and break. Use only the very best hardware you can afford, especially when the integrity of your boat and your safety depends on it. JC
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