I am considering post-season replacement of the gate valves (I presume factory installed) on by 1985 H-34 with ball valves. Everything I've read here and elsewhere makes me wonder why Hunter installed these in the first place... My question is: Has anyone done this? and do you need to replace the entire through-hull fitting or can you just replace the valve portion? Generally what is involved and what are key considerations? Are there best of class ball valve seacocks? If so what are they and why are they the best? etc. Thanks sb
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Andy Howard
Don't consider it, just do it.
Since your in WI, I assume you will haul out in the Fall. Replacing the Gate valves is quite simple. They should screw right off of the thru hull fitting, but a little penetrating oil around the threads will help. The Marelon valves are more expensive, but I went with Apollo Bronze fittings, 'cause I'd hate for a piece of plastic to break off in my hand.
Since your in WI, I assume you will haul out in the Fall. Replacing the Gate valves is quite simple. They should screw right off of the thru hull fitting, but a little penetrating oil around the threads will help. The Marelon valves are more expensive, but I went with Apollo Bronze fittings, 'cause I'd hate for a piece of plastic to break off in my hand.
I'd agree with Andy!
Scott: I would have to agree with Andy. If you ever feel a marelon ball valve in your hand that does not move easily, you are wondering, when will it break! I would not use one of these on a below the waterline thru hull regardless of which cost less. If you would need one on some other thru hull that drains above the waterline I do not think I would have ANY problem with them. The advantge is the fact that they will not corrode. Depending on how much corrosion you have on our gate valves it could be difficult. Several owners have cut the old ones off with a sawzall and replaced the entire unit. I would bet yours are going to be much easier if the boat has been in fresh water all of it's life. Really, you should do this before you launch you boat again.
Scott: I would have to agree with Andy. If you ever feel a marelon ball valve in your hand that does not move easily, you are wondering, when will it break! I would not use one of these on a below the waterline thru hull regardless of which cost less. If you would need one on some other thru hull that drains above the waterline I do not think I would have ANY problem with them. The advantge is the fact that they will not corrode. Depending on how much corrosion you have on our gate valves it could be difficult. Several owners have cut the old ones off with a sawzall and replaced the entire unit. I would bet yours are going to be much easier if the boat has been in fresh water all of it's life. Really, you should do this before you launch you boat again.
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Michel Sanscartier
What about the thru hulls
I started replacing the gate valves on my 34. this year was the holding tank and fresh water. They came off easy. Next year will be the sinks. It looks like I may have to disassemble the gate valve to take it off as there won't be swinging room to unscrew them. I did not change the thru hulls. They look fine although I am sure they are original. The little piece of teak they sit on look a little... weathered. Any advice on wether they should stay there?
I started replacing the gate valves on my 34. this year was the holding tank and fresh water. They came off easy. Next year will be the sinks. It looks like I may have to disassemble the gate valve to take it off as there won't be swinging room to unscrew them. I did not change the thru hulls. They look fine although I am sure they are original. The little piece of teak they sit on look a little... weathered. Any advice on wether they should stay there?
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Jeff
Re-bed
I would rebed the thru hulls. First you have a chance to inspect them for cracks. Also, when removing the gatevalves you may have broken the thru hull free and not realize it. As long as you have gone as far as you have might as well be safe as possible.
I would rebed the thru hulls. First you have a chance to inspect them for cracks. Also, when removing the gatevalves you may have broken the thru hull free and not realize it. As long as you have gone as far as you have might as well be safe as possible.
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Scott Bukolt
Rebedding!?
Thanks for the counsel. I'll follow it. But, Rebedding? Does this mean removing the through-hull, glassing up the hole, redrilling and replacing the through-hull? What specifically is "best practice" and what skills or experience (or reference materials) are available for guidance? sb
Thanks for the counsel. I'll follow it. But, Rebedding? Does this mean removing the through-hull, glassing up the hole, redrilling and replacing the through-hull? What specifically is "best practice" and what skills or experience (or reference materials) are available for guidance? sb
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Ed Schenck
Do some research.
I have not seen the areas that you have to work in. Your H34 is obviously different from my H37C. The problem with ball valves is that they are manufactured with tapered threads. The thru-hulls have straight threads and are meant to have a real seacock threaded on, one that screws all the way to the base with sealant under it. So on my boat it was difficult to tighten the ball valve on the thru-hull AND have the handle in a position where I could still have room to open/close it. In fact in one location I had to shorten the handle. On my engine thru-hull there was an elbow and then the gate valve. I installed the ball valve directly on the thru-hull and put the elbow on the other end of the ball valve. On the head thru-hull I had to leave the elbow on the thru-hull to get the right direction from the ball valve to the hose. Just takes some careful planning. And real bronze ball valves. This next haulout those two thru-hulls will be replaced with larger ones and real seacocks.
I have not seen the areas that you have to work in. Your H34 is obviously different from my H37C. The problem with ball valves is that they are manufactured with tapered threads. The thru-hulls have straight threads and are meant to have a real seacock threaded on, one that screws all the way to the base with sealant under it. So on my boat it was difficult to tighten the ball valve on the thru-hull AND have the handle in a position where I could still have room to open/close it. In fact in one location I had to shorten the handle. On my engine thru-hull there was an elbow and then the gate valve. I installed the ball valve directly on the thru-hull and put the elbow on the other end of the ball valve. On the head thru-hull I had to leave the elbow on the thru-hull to get the right direction from the ball valve to the hose. Just takes some careful planning. And real bronze ball valves. This next haulout those two thru-hulls will be replaced with larger ones and real seacocks.
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Barry
Did all of Mine in 1995
Used the exsisting thru hull fittings. Just threaded new ball valve on them. While taking the old ones off I managed to "spin" two of the thru hull fitting. Those two I removed and rebedded with Boatlife. Also replace the plywood backing while it was apart. Easy job if you have a helper and the boat out of the water. Barry
Used the exsisting thru hull fittings. Just threaded new ball valve on them. While taking the old ones off I managed to "spin" two of the thru hull fitting. Those two I removed and rebedded with Boatlife. Also replace the plywood backing while it was apart. Easy job if you have a helper and the boat out of the water. Barry
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