Replacing Furlex Tack Ring

[Ken13559]

My Furlex 100S Tack Ring broke at where the Jib tack is mounted. I had bought a replacement Tack Ring and is wondering how difficult it is to remove the Furlex to replace the Tack Ring. I know for sure all those parts around the furler that could be removed should be taken out. Question is how do I separate the core Furlex body from the Extrusion?
I don't intend to remove the whole forestay but instead, just remove the furler and leave the forestay connected to Mast top. Nast will be held forward by the Jib & Spinnaker halyard.
From photo you could see the Jib tack held down by a green cord. Another photo shows the replacement Tack Ring.
Any advise & guidance appreciated.
Thank you.

Ken

 

[Joe]

Hi ken, I took a look at the Furlex 100S manual to compare it to my 20 year old ProFurl and the design is very similar. I'm almost certain you'll have to remove the lower bearing unit to get the tack ring change. Remove the drum, disconnect the forestay at the deck, and uncouple the extrusion so you can slide the lower bearing unit out to allow you to work on it. Perhaps a pair of vice grips could help keep the extrusion in place on the forestay wire while the lower bearing unit is out. Tie off a halyard to the bow pulpit to support the mast while you're working. All in all, it shouldn't be to difficult if you understand its construction. Unfortunately, you're at a slight disadvantage from the technician who installed your unit. So you'll want to exercise some due diligence by studying the manual and its illustrations and perhaps reaching out to the factory for a little customer support. Remember, this is a high quality piece of hardware and you should expect to get some factory support. I know I did when I bought my profurl. I had a few questions and called the US distributor, which was in Florida at the time, and the guy walked be through the whole installation process. I'm sure Selden would do the same so don't be afraid to give them a call. Good luck...

 

[jssailem]

I have not disassembled a furler100s. The manual looks to be similar to others as in the ProFurler (like @Joe ). When attempting a first time approach I take pictures at every step. I work on a clean table using a mat so screws don’t jump when they fall from my fingers.

The halyards secured to the bow is a smart move. Joe suggests vice grips. I prefer to use something like wraps of rope or cotton cord around the stay to hold the extrusion in place. I dislike crimping the wires of the stay if I don’t have to. It helps to work with a helper. The extension can be heavy. You don’t want it sliding off the stay while your working on the drum.