Replacing Electrical Panel Switch
- Thread starter kiteflyer
- Start date
Our first boat was an 1989 H28, but I do not remember whether it had any spare breaker slots. If so, I would contact Paneltronics for a new breaker. As I recall Paneltronics made them for the H28 as well as our current 1991 boat. Our boat has a separate breaker switch for each light; steaming and deck.
https://paneltronics.com/Electrical_Panels.asp
Have you settled on a fixture solution? Here is a good solution for consideration. https://store.marinebeam.com/economy-series-25-led-deck-and-masthead-navigation-light-mast-mounted/
https://paneltronics.com/Electrical_Panels.asp
Have you settled on a fixture solution? Here is a good solution for consideration. https://store.marinebeam.com/economy-series-25-led-deck-and-masthead-navigation-light-mast-mounted/
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I'm sure you have already considered this, but you should be able to use your old steaming light wire as a chase to run two new wires to the new fixture, as you will need to switch them independently. Do not recall, but on our boat the wires for the mast all congregate beneath the removable panel above the compression post before entering through the coach roof and up the mast. Also try and place a drip loop in these new wires so rain water will not follow them down the mast and into the main cabin. Hunter was pretty good about running all the wires through a conduit to avoid interference with the halyards.
No problem. Our mast step plate has a weep hole on the leading edge for the purpose of allowing rain water, as it comes down the mast, to flow out rather than pooling up and over the coach roof conduit and into the main cabin. The wires that come down the mast, and before they enter the coach roof conduit, have a drip loop "U" before they enter the coach roof conduit. That way any rain water that flows down the wires will drip inside the mast step and out the weep hole and not follow the wires into the main cabin.
http://www.wirefacts.com/web/Images/Article122-0.png
Of course it easier said than done with the mast already stepped. Our drip loop was placed as the unstepped mast was being stepped. A different story when you want to install new wires and ensuring there is a drip loop in the wires with the mast already stepped.
I'm trying to think of a way, short of lifting the mast off the step plate high enough, to place a drip loop in your new wires. Here is a thought...after running the wires up to your new fixture, where the wires come through the coach roof conduit inside the boat, form the two wires into the shape of a "N" or a "W" and squeeze them together so that they will slide through the conduit and up into the inside of the mast. That should give you the drip loop that you need.
If I have any other silly ideas I will post them here.
http://www.wirefacts.com/web/Images/Article122-0.png
Of course it easier said than done with the mast already stepped. Our drip loop was placed as the unstepped mast was being stepped. A different story when you want to install new wires and ensuring there is a drip loop in the wires with the mast already stepped.
I'm trying to think of a way, short of lifting the mast off the step plate high enough, to place a drip loop in your new wires. Here is a thought...after running the wires up to your new fixture, where the wires come through the coach roof conduit inside the boat, form the two wires into the shape of a "N" or a "W" and squeeze them together so that they will slide through the conduit and up into the inside of the mast. That should give you the drip loop that you need.
If I have any other silly ideas I will post them here.
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Cabinet catch for many Hunters
These catches were common on Hunters from the Legend-era through today's Marlow-Hunters. We keep a large stock on hand for emergency shipments or just getting spares.
See the product