Tough job for one person, especially when tightening things down. I recommend enlisting some help at least for the re-install. Removal can be done on your own, using a vise grip on the nut and turning the bolt from above, but it goes a lot faster with a helper. ]
When installing, turn the nuts, not the bolt. Turning the bolt will pull sealant into the threads, providing a path for moisture intrusion. Have a helper hold the bolt in place with a screwdriver while tightening nut from below. Tip: deep sockets are really helpful for this.
Additionally, there may be other issues that you should be prepared for. For starters, if there are any holes that are through a cored deck, they deserve a careful inspection to ensure they have been properly "potted" (drilled oversized, filled with epoxy and drilled through for bolt size). It's likely that a spongy deck or leaks would have already alerted you to this possiblility, but ya' never know! Poke around and fix it right if you need to.
Are the tracks curved? If so this can also be a hassle as they will want to straighten as bolts are loosened and resist bending when installing. When installing mine I made some templates from plywood that wedged in between the toe rail and the track, holding it in place as I installed the hardware.
Bedding hardware is pretty basic, but there are some details one should abide by. For instance, make sure all holes are countersinked - this provides a space for the sealant to form a seal and helps prevent spidercracks emanating from a hole when hardware is (over) tightened.
Be sure to check this site for other threads as there are many related to rebedding deck hardware. And of course... Bed-it Butyl tape is my go-to for jobs like this as many will attest to it's outstanding performance and ease of use.
