Replacing Danfoss 101N0210 with 101N0212
- Thread starter buddybear
- Start date
I am not dealing with the refrigerant as of yet. My issue is that the compressor will not come on. It could be the thermostat, compressor or the Danfoss module which tells the compressor when to run. It is very simple to replace the Danfoss module that is what I am doing first. If that does not work I do have a spare thermostat or I will just jump the connections for the thermostat on the Danfoss module. I assume I will need to get a refrigerator mechanic if it is a refrigerant issue.
I hope the problem is external electrical as you've targeted. Sounds so.
The compressor does have service valves. The suction side normally serviced is closest and easiest to access. High pressure side is a long reach, but normally not needed. A slow leak is likely the aluminum tubes feeding the evaporator, which corrode due to moisture trapped between the insulation sleeve and the tube. /Ed
The compressor does have service valves. The suction side normally serviced is closest and easiest to access. High pressure side is a long reach, but normally not needed. A slow leak is likely the aluminum tubes feeding the evaporator, which corrode due to moisture trapped between the insulation sleeve and the tube. /Ed
Try googling the part numbers and see if they are interchangeable. Amazon shows that it is but I'd get a second opinion. I replaced the module in my first boat and it did the trick. My next boat had the same problem, new module and problem solved. Both used the 4 pin modules. Easy fix, good luck
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Today I replaced the Danfoss module, still compressor would not come on. I bypassed the thermostat same problem. I am am getting 12.4 volts to the the Danfoss module. The error code I get from the Led is 3 blinks no refrigerant has been added to the system. Any suggestions on how to proceed troubleshooting.
Try this website, tons of great info.
Kollmann Marine
I've worked with thousands of boat owners helping them to select and maintain refrigeration systems for their boat. Over the years I've seen just about every boat refrigeration system that is available and the problems that can occur. Most of these problems could have been solved or prevented by...
kollmannmarine.com
I userd the Kollmann tips too. You indicated that you are starting with the module. I would recommend that you start by jumping out the t'stat, Then hookup the LED to see if you get any led flashes.
I ended up changing both the compressor and the module - went one compressor larger and used the Danfoss 101N510 controller. This is a dual voltage 12VDC/120VAC controller.
I ended up changing both the compressor and the module - went one compressor larger and used the Danfoss 101N510 controller. This is a dual voltage 12VDC/120VAC controller.
I replaced the Danfoss module, still compressor would not come on. I bypassed the thermostat same problem. I am am getting 12.4 volts to the the Danfoss module. The error code I get from the Led is 3 blinks no refrigerant has been added to the system. Any other suggestions on how to proceed troubleshooting.
Have you checked the compressor windings for shorts or grounding, resistance? This is detailed on the Kollmann site.You can try adding refrigerant - Mine was R134-A - same as car A/C. Accurately measure LOW pressure line - (this is either the pigtail dead-ending up from the compressor) or locate the line from the evaporator (refrigerator) to the compressor. Measure the line accurately - may be metric tubing. and attach a piercing valve. The pic below is for concept only.
Maybe try tapping on the compressor while power is applied. It might just be stuck.
When you have the 12.4 volts at the compressor, what is the battery bank voltage? What does the voltage do when the unit is turned on (need a second person to test this)?
I suspect you will see the voltage drop to 10ish volts. In which case you have a bad connection and I would guess it's the ground.
The factory ground wiring of almost all boats is suspect. On the 310 you have half a dozen or more wire lugs stacked on a couple of bolts into the hull. An upgrade Mainesail has discussed before is adding a Blue Sea Systems block and moving the grounds to the block. Then one wire (2/0 AWG) running to engine from the block. Then some corrosion protection. I'm currently using No-Ox-Id for these type of terminals.
If you have the voltage drop, take a 15-20 foot length of wore and run it from the ground location on the compressor controls to the batteries. This is just temporary. Then try starting the fridge and see if that fixes the voltage drop. If it does than your issue is on the ground side and I would start looking at the engine.
Good luck and fair winds
I have had this failure twice. It is the control module -- an expensive, but easy, replacement. And unfortunately, the Achilles Heel of the Danfoss compressors.
Read the 3-blink-error description here:
www.coastalclimatecontrol.com
Harry
Read the 3-blink-error description here:
Danfoss-Secop Compressor Fault Codes Explained
Danfoss Secop compressor fault code flashes explained to help one interpret and correct failure problems with their 12v 24v refrigeration systems
Harry
I did replace the control module and still not compressor running. I was getting the 3 blink led with the new module and with the old. Recently the Led has stopped blinking. I will test it per the article you sent me. It is not easy to get to the unit and I have messed with the wires numerous times, so I will check if I don't have them connected well.I have had this failure twice. It is the control module -- an expensive, but easy, replacement. And unfortunately, the Achilles Heel of the Danfoss compressors.
Read the 3-blink-error description here:
Danfoss-Secop Compressor Fault Codes Explained
Danfoss Secop compressor fault code flashes explained to help one interpret and correct failure problems with their 12v 24v refrigeration systems
Harry
This is different than the low voltage. It's short cycling. And it can be caused by a few things: low refrigerant, bad compressor or excessive voltage drop by a bad connection.
I did check the voltage while the fridge was running and saw minimum voltage drop 12.6 to 12.4. Now I am not getting the blinking Led. I will have to troubleshoot that. I am not sure if it is even trying to start the compressor. My battery bank is 4 6volt Trojan T105 fully charged.