I'm in the process of buying a 1982 Hunter 27. The surveyer indicates that the cutlass bearing needs to be replaced. The boat yard where the boat is presently situated says it will cost me $1,200 to replace the cutlass bearing. The bearing costs about $45. Can this price be right? It sounds exorbitant to me.
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Kevin, can't be can it?
Kevin: I had my boat hauled, painted, new cutlass and zincs done 2 years ago for $750. This was complete incluing paint for a H'31. Now the questions is do you need a new shaft. If not maybe you are getting the shaft! I'd shop this one around. If the seller is going to discount the price by the $1200 take it and find someone to do it for less. I would think that a price in the $150 range would sound better. Plus the cost of pulling and splashing the boat. If the boat is out of the water it should be a job that someone may be able to help you with.
Kevin: I had my boat hauled, painted, new cutlass and zincs done 2 years ago for $750. This was complete incluing paint for a H'31. Now the questions is do you need a new shaft. If not maybe you are getting the shaft! I'd shop this one around. If the seller is going to discount the price by the $1200 take it and find someone to do it for less. I would think that a price in the $150 range would sound better. Plus the cost of pulling and splashing the boat. If the boat is out of the water it should be a job that someone may be able to help you with.
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Paul Akers
Careful...
The price of the bearing sound right. The rest is labor and that sounds excessive. The last time I had one done (5 yrs ago), the total price was $250. I don't know the configuration of your boat, but without any obstructions to slow the process, that sounds excessive.
The price of the bearing sound right. The rest is labor and that sounds excessive. The last time I had one done (5 yrs ago), the total price was $250. I don't know the configuration of your boat, but without any obstructions to slow the process, that sounds excessive.
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Brian Ranniger
What's their labor rate?
Figure maybe $300 to haul out $50 bearing 6 hours labor at $75/hr=$450 New shaft = $300 Sales tax = $75 total $1175 Thats a lot if their rate is $75/hr, they have problems getting out the bearing and have to get a new shaft. I guess it's possible. Just do it yourself. I did it without having ever done it. Just do a little research on the web first. All the little tricks are posted at various sites. Good Luck.
Figure maybe $300 to haul out $50 bearing 6 hours labor at $75/hr=$450 New shaft = $300 Sales tax = $75 total $1175 Thats a lot if their rate is $75/hr, they have problems getting out the bearing and have to get a new shaft. I guess it's possible. Just do it yourself. I did it without having ever done it. Just do a little research on the web first. All the little tricks are posted at various sites. Good Luck.
T
Tim McCarty
Rethink!
I have a Hunter 272 ('82) that I purchased in '95. At that time, the surveyor also stated that my cutlass bearing was worn and should be replaced. I never replaced it and have never experienced any problems. Am I being careless? I think not. I've learned much about prop systems since buying the boat. There should be "a little" give in the system itself, however, if there is "a lot of" give, it probably needs some attention. Talk to other boaters, have them look at the bearing. Again, the prop system needs some give to eliminate excess friction.
I have a Hunter 272 ('82) that I purchased in '95. At that time, the surveyor also stated that my cutlass bearing was worn and should be replaced. I never replaced it and have never experienced any problems. Am I being careless? I think not. I've learned much about prop systems since buying the boat. There should be "a little" give in the system itself, however, if there is "a lot of" give, it probably needs some attention. Talk to other boaters, have them look at the bearing. Again, the prop system needs some give to eliminate excess friction.
Rethink the rethink!
Tim: The only probelm with not replacing the cutlass is the fact that you may end up with either a scored or bent shaft in the future. So if you wait instead of costing the $50 for the cutlass bearing you may be looking at another $250 for a shaft too! On the other hand if that does not happen you will have cheated the system and had the money in your pocket instead of theirs.
Tim: The only probelm with not replacing the cutlass is the fact that you may end up with either a scored or bent shaft in the future. So if you wait instead of costing the $50 for the cutlass bearing you may be looking at another $250 for a shaft too! On the other hand if that does not happen you will have cheated the system and had the money in your pocket instead of theirs.
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mark stevens
sounds expensive
I replaced the cutlass bearing on my oday 30 2 years ago when hauled out. I disconnected the coupler and removed the prop and the had a choice of dropping the rudder which was in the way of sliding the shaft out or cutting a small channel along the side of the rudder to get the shaft out. I choose the latter. I then cut the bearing in 2 places with to make it easier to pound out.I then reversed the process and reglassed the small cutout in the rudder. All went smoothly and I have had no problems with the bearing,shaft or rudder. Perhaps it is more compicated with your boat, but the price you were quoted seems awfully high.
I replaced the cutlass bearing on my oday 30 2 years ago when hauled out. I disconnected the coupler and removed the prop and the had a choice of dropping the rudder which was in the way of sliding the shaft out or cutting a small channel along the side of the rudder to get the shaft out. I choose the latter. I then cut the bearing in 2 places with to make it easier to pound out.I then reversed the process and reglassed the small cutout in the rudder. All went smoothly and I have had no problems with the bearing,shaft or rudder. Perhaps it is more compicated with your boat, but the price you were quoted seems awfully high.
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Don Alexander
Suggestion
Kevin, Why not ask the yard why they need so much money. If the answer is unsatisfactory launch and go elsewhere. Regards,
Kevin, Why not ask the yard why they need so much money. If the answer is unsatisfactory launch and go elsewhere. Regards,
T
Tim McCarty
Steve, I think you are probably right...
I only have my boat in the water 5 months out of the year (unfortunately). Visually, if I look at the cutlass bearing itself, it looks like it has hammer points which MAY make it look like it needs to be replaced. I've checked the shaft over and over and it SEEMS to be fine. I'm launching in 2 wks. I think I'll have another look. Thanks.
I only have my boat in the water 5 months out of the year (unfortunately). Visually, if I look at the cutlass bearing itself, it looks like it has hammer points which MAY make it look like it needs to be replaced. I've checked the shaft over and over and it SEEMS to be fine. I'm launching in 2 wks. I think I'll have another look. Thanks.
R
Rich Wallace
Just Replace Mine
Replacing the cutlass bearing is not too big a task. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. I could not get the dripless collar off the shaft so I ended up taking the diesel loose and lifting it so I could pull the shaft forward out from under it. Even then I could not get the cutlass bearing out of the strut. I ended up unbolting the strut and took it home with me. After a lot of effort, I finally conceded that I was not going to get the cutlass bearing out without a more drastic measure. I put a hack saw blade through the bearing, put it back on the saw frame, and CAREFULLY cut through the bearing in two places lengthwise, avoiding cutting into the strut. Very little coaxing was needed to get the pieces out. Then I did a little cleanup on the inside of the strut, and the new bearing sliped in with only a little convincing from a small hammer and a block of wood. (Don't want to damage the new bearing by hitting it directly with a hammer.) Then it was a matter of slipping the shaft back through the dripless connector, slipping the strut over it, and reattaching the strut to the hull with some 4200 to seal it. I would also suggest checking the alignment of the transmission flange and the prop shaft flange when you are reassembling to be sure that there is not undue flexing due to a misalignment. Overall, not a bad job. My difficulty arose from the fact that the setscrews in the dripless collar had been installed with red locktite. I ended up having to drill the setscrews out and retap the collar for larger setscrews. Since I had to go through completely pulling the shaft, I went ahead and installed a flexible coupling at the transmission as well. (Only another $110, oh well.) Then I had to realign the diesel which took many trips between the quarter berth and the engine compartment....measuring....adjusting....measuring....adjusting...You get the idea.
Replacing the cutlass bearing is not too big a task. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. I could not get the dripless collar off the shaft so I ended up taking the diesel loose and lifting it so I could pull the shaft forward out from under it. Even then I could not get the cutlass bearing out of the strut. I ended up unbolting the strut and took it home with me. After a lot of effort, I finally conceded that I was not going to get the cutlass bearing out without a more drastic measure. I put a hack saw blade through the bearing, put it back on the saw frame, and CAREFULLY cut through the bearing in two places lengthwise, avoiding cutting into the strut. Very little coaxing was needed to get the pieces out. Then I did a little cleanup on the inside of the strut, and the new bearing sliped in with only a little convincing from a small hammer and a block of wood. (Don't want to damage the new bearing by hitting it directly with a hammer.) Then it was a matter of slipping the shaft back through the dripless connector, slipping the strut over it, and reattaching the strut to the hull with some 4200 to seal it. I would also suggest checking the alignment of the transmission flange and the prop shaft flange when you are reassembling to be sure that there is not undue flexing due to a misalignment. Overall, not a bad job. My difficulty arose from the fact that the setscrews in the dripless collar had been installed with red locktite. I ended up having to drill the setscrews out and retap the collar for larger setscrews. Since I had to go through completely pulling the shaft, I went ahead and installed a flexible coupling at the transmission as well. (Only another $110, oh well.) Then I had to realign the diesel which took many trips between the quarter berth and the engine compartment....measuring....adjusting....measuring....adjusting...You get the idea.
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