Replacing cam cleats with wood base ..

[catalanc]

Hi Guys,
I have cam cleats next to the winches to make fast the jib sheets (any of this appropriate terminology ... ?) None of them have any bearings left and I need to replace them. They are mounted on wooden blocks (pic

below) so when I replace the cam cleats should I also replace the block? The admiral wants me to varnish the wood block like I just did for a new tiller. Is this a bad idea?
Thanks for the information.
cec

 

[Meriachee]

Cams are easy. It looks like the bolt for the base has been sucked into the wood without any kind of washer, and there's a pretty big crack in it. You might want to consider replacing the wood with something nicer and varnish that. This piece isn't in very good shape.

 

[dzl]

Mine have the plastic riser but not the wood underneath. I reckon it would just be up to your judgement... As far as cam cleats go, I prefer the Harken 150, even though you didn't ask for opinions.

 

[Joe]

Replace them.... and get rid of the hex bolt. You can replace the bolts on the cam cleats with ones long enough to go all the way through the riser to a nyloc nut and washer underneath the coaming. That way the wood riser can be cut the same shape as the cleat's base. Much neater... your wife will love it.

 

[catalanc]

Thanks guys. So I presume that the riser is necessary to position the cam cleat at a height that works with the winch, yes? So simply removing it and mounting the cleat directly to the deck is unwise?
I have looked for teak risers but can't seem to find any. Do simply purchase a piece of teak and fashion them yourself?

 

[JohnVTX]

If you go any lower you may have issues with the sheet crossing over lower wrap. You can use anything you wish to raise it up. May even be risers specific for the cams you buy. You can fill the holes with 5200

 

[catalanc]

Thanks guys. So I presume that the riser is necessary to position the cam cleat at a height that works with the winch, yes? So simply removing it and mounting the cleat directly to the deck is unwise?
I have looked for teak risers but can't seem to find any. Do simply purchase a piece of teak and fashion them yourself?

Yes, just looked and Harken makes risers for their cam cleats. Next question is whether to get a flat one or one with a 15˚ top angle .... decisions, decisions ...

 

[catalanc]

oops .... meant to quote JohnVTX, not myself :}

 

[JohnVTX]

I would stick with the angle you have

 

[Joe]

Yes, just looked and Harken makes risers for their cam cleats. Next question is whether to get a flat one or one with a 15˚ top angle .... decisions, decisions ...

It's not that critical. Don't over think this. The entry angle from lead block to winch is very important.... but where you cleat the line is more of a convenience decision. I will wager that the original factory set up on your boat had a simple horn/jam cleat mounted right on the deck. So your cam/riser/block set up is the result of a previous owner's preference, If you like it the way it is... keep it that way.. not a big deal.

Also... you don't need to use teak.. other hardwood will work, as well as marine plywood coated with epoxy. I don't see the need for angled bases. What you want is the convenience of handling the line from a distance and being able to cleat it from across the cockpit.

In the picture below you can see the primary winch's cam cleat has a riser to get the it high enough the line to clear the drum wraps and allow for easy lock in from distance. This is important if you single hand a lot. It allows you to release and set the cleat from across the cockpit. The secondary winch (on the left) is not used for headsail work and there is a simple clam cleat mounted at deck level....

 

[ShotgunSlim]

I used a piece of half inch thick mahogany cut to the same size as the cam cleat's base, sealed it with several coats of Cetol and mounted everything with butyl rubber. My jib sheet cam cleats had been mounted in two different positions previously and I moved them to find which one I preferred. They were originally mounted right on the deck and I found it cumbersome to cleat and uncleat the sheets as they were, hence the mahogany risers. This is a great little project that makes a big difference.

 

[Meriachee]

Making some sort of base is possibly the best approach, only because there are existing holes. Properly bedded with butyl, there will be no water incursion. Having said that, if you're ok with filling holes, then that's ok too.
Your boat, your choice, but don't over think it.

 

[Jim 5757]

One more option... You could use starboard- comes in various thickness. Can be cut,planed,sanded just like wood but totally impervious to water with no finishing needed.

 

[kito]

Don't mean to thread jack but I need to replace my jib cam cleats on my C22 also. My cleats have a quick release lever that opens the cams when I pull down. I really like the design. I just can't find them anywhere. Anyone know if they are still available?

 

[Siamese]

Ditto on the Starboard and the no finishing.

 

[Gene Neill]

I found a HUGE cutting board on sale at wallyworld last year for $1.99.

A lifetime supply of starboard for under two bucks!