The previous owner of my 25.5 unfortunately did not regularly caulk the chain plates and therefore there is extensive water damage to the port side bulkhead and the bow most areas of the cabin floor. Additionally due to the wood rot the port side chain plate moved around a lot and wore away the nearby fiberglass all the way down to the wood support that is laminated inside. This wood is also rotten. I plan to fix this when the bulkhead is removed. I am going to remove all the rotten wood and replace it with epoxy. As a winter project I have chosen to replace/repair rotten wood in the ceiling, the port side bulkhead, and maybe replace the floor while I'm at it. I figure that while I am replacing the bulkhead pretty much all the stuff I need to remove to replace the floor is already removed so why not? I have already gone a long way toward removing the port side bulkhead. I have a few questions which are as follows. What wood should I use to replace the bulkhead? Also where does one buy a replacement cabin sole? I am going to call Hunter Marine and see what they have to say shortly. Bob Getchell, if you're out there, I noticed in a previous post that you had also done this. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Do you have any pictures? Thanks.
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Anthony Bavuso
I called Hunter....
For anyone interested... I called the Hunter Marine Parts Guy, Mike Thomas 1-800-771-5556 ext 3015. Mike referred me to another compay East Teak Of South Carolina at 1-800-338-5636. East Teak only sells in bulk quantities minimum 5 4x8 sheets. But they referred me to two closer lumber yards that sell singles. They are Exotic Lumber in Annapolis, Maryland 410-267-0887 and Harbor Lumber in Sudersville (sp?), Maryland 410-758-5461. Exotic will not ship the plywood.
For anyone interested... I called the Hunter Marine Parts Guy, Mike Thomas 1-800-771-5556 ext 3015. Mike referred me to another compay East Teak Of South Carolina at 1-800-338-5636. East Teak only sells in bulk quantities minimum 5 4x8 sheets. But they referred me to two closer lumber yards that sell singles. They are Exotic Lumber in Annapolis, Maryland 410-267-0887 and Harbor Lumber in Sudersville (sp?), Maryland 410-758-5461. Exotic will not ship the plywood.
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Bob Getchell
Glad Im not alone
Anthony. I had found termite damage in the compression post and also wood damage in the same areas as you. Also below the chainplates, the water had dripped down and caused rot in the vanity and cabin side shelving along the hull( I think alot more boats than owners know have these problems if they look close enough). I thought about the cost of the repair and ended up getting some oak laminate plywood from Home depot, 50 bucks a sheet for the deck (never any water in the bilge and an automatic pump just in case). I stained with red mahogany stain and varnished 10 or 12 coats on sawhorses in my garage. After removing the sole, (got to bust it out in places)traced and cut a new one. you will not get it into the boat in one piece, you will want to make a side to side cut directly over one of the sole support beams and then install in two peices. The bulkheads are a little tougher because of all of the seat and vanity connections which you must remove. Be careful with the bronze screw heads if you strip youll have tough time. Also I replaced the compression post with oak which I glued one plank with two others on the face leaving a channel for the wiring in the center(same size 2x4 as the original), varnished also. The compression post is held in only by screws to the bulkhead, which is in turn screwed to the cabin liner in a few spots. The worst part of this job to me was lowering and raising the mast, and then all the mess in the cabin. I used the same plywood for the bulkheads(my mistake, should be thinner than the 3/4 in the sole, so had to trim around the edges, but now have a stronger bulkhead than original, oh yes also had to re work the teak mouldings and door frames because of this, but managed it with the original teak), and stained it golden mahogany on both sides for a lighter color. I also re built the entire top of the vanity and replaced two sections of the shelving along the hull either side with the same varnished oak veneer plywood. One good thing about this is youll find alot more dried out and questionable wood when removing these things than you can see with them in. Also I know now what is below the decking and had a chance to clean 16 years of accumulated dirt away from under the sole. Theres alot of peace of mind in knowing these things are new versus worrying when you will have to finally replace. I will not be at my boat for a week but will try to get some photos then. With all the talk of wood coring, I looked inside the deck at the point where the chainplates go through on both sides and didnt see any in that particular spot, just real heavy fiberglass there.
Anthony. I had found termite damage in the compression post and also wood damage in the same areas as you. Also below the chainplates, the water had dripped down and caused rot in the vanity and cabin side shelving along the hull( I think alot more boats than owners know have these problems if they look close enough). I thought about the cost of the repair and ended up getting some oak laminate plywood from Home depot, 50 bucks a sheet for the deck (never any water in the bilge and an automatic pump just in case). I stained with red mahogany stain and varnished 10 or 12 coats on sawhorses in my garage. After removing the sole, (got to bust it out in places)traced and cut a new one. you will not get it into the boat in one piece, you will want to make a side to side cut directly over one of the sole support beams and then install in two peices. The bulkheads are a little tougher because of all of the seat and vanity connections which you must remove. Be careful with the bronze screw heads if you strip youll have tough time. Also I replaced the compression post with oak which I glued one plank with two others on the face leaving a channel for the wiring in the center(same size 2x4 as the original), varnished also. The compression post is held in only by screws to the bulkhead, which is in turn screwed to the cabin liner in a few spots. The worst part of this job to me was lowering and raising the mast, and then all the mess in the cabin. I used the same plywood for the bulkheads(my mistake, should be thinner than the 3/4 in the sole, so had to trim around the edges, but now have a stronger bulkhead than original, oh yes also had to re work the teak mouldings and door frames because of this, but managed it with the original teak), and stained it golden mahogany on both sides for a lighter color. I also re built the entire top of the vanity and replaced two sections of the shelving along the hull either side with the same varnished oak veneer plywood. One good thing about this is youll find alot more dried out and questionable wood when removing these things than you can see with them in. Also I know now what is below the decking and had a chance to clean 16 years of accumulated dirt away from under the sole. Theres alot of peace of mind in knowing these things are new versus worrying when you will have to finally replace. I will not be at my boat for a week but will try to get some photos then. With all the talk of wood coring, I looked inside the deck at the point where the chainplates go through on both sides and didnt see any in that particular spot, just real heavy fiberglass there.
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Anthony Bavuso
Replacing sole in one piece?
Bob, When you say you couldn't get the new cabin sole in as one piece, did you try getting the new one in with the poptop removed? I ask because I did some preliminary measurements and the opening with the poptop off is about 6' x 4' and my measurements of the max dimensions of the sole are ~8' x ~4'. That should fit, shouldn't it? Thanks for all your help.
Bob, When you say you couldn't get the new cabin sole in as one piece, did you try getting the new one in with the poptop removed? I ask because I did some preliminary measurements and the opening with the poptop off is about 6' x 4' and my measurements of the max dimensions of the sole are ~8' x ~4'. That should fit, shouldn't it? Thanks for all your help.
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Bob Getchell
more about the 25.5 sole
Anthony, I did not remove the pop top, But I did get the one piece sole into the cabin the hard way. I was not successful in getting it to fall into place since the clearance between the fiberglass floor and the galley woodwork is so small, you basically have to push it in straight(lay down flat and slide aft under the cabinets the bulkheads prevent the fore and aft clearance needed also). If you try to do in one piece you can not get it flat then push it in under the galley cabinetry. the way the boat was built, I believe the sole was laid down then the cabinetry and bulkheads put in on top, the clearance is so tight that you literally have to hammer the plywood to get it to slide in, I even lubricated the wood with soap to get it in there. The 3/4 inch ply has no flexibility so forget about flexing it down on the aft end. Again, it may be possible, but I decided it was a thousand times easier to go the 2 piece route and I dont think there is any loss of asthetics, also I can remove sections if I want to by pulling a few screws should I need access to the bilge for any reason. Bob
Anthony, I did not remove the pop top, But I did get the one piece sole into the cabin the hard way. I was not successful in getting it to fall into place since the clearance between the fiberglass floor and the galley woodwork is so small, you basically have to push it in straight(lay down flat and slide aft under the cabinets the bulkheads prevent the fore and aft clearance needed also). If you try to do in one piece you can not get it flat then push it in under the galley cabinetry. the way the boat was built, I believe the sole was laid down then the cabinetry and bulkheads put in on top, the clearance is so tight that you literally have to hammer the plywood to get it to slide in, I even lubricated the wood with soap to get it in there. The 3/4 inch ply has no flexibility so forget about flexing it down on the aft end. Again, it may be possible, but I decided it was a thousand times easier to go the 2 piece route and I dont think there is any loss of asthetics, also I can remove sections if I want to by pulling a few screws should I need access to the bilge for any reason. Bob
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