I am in the process of replacing some of the wood in my cabin on my 1980 Hunter 30. Has anybody had any experience doing this. I see that it is screwed down but I am a wondering whether I will find a layer of glue underneath that will be difficult to work with. I would be also very interested in hearing about anybody's modifications made to the cabin on their H30. Thanks Murray
Replacing Cabin Floor
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check out this link
This project is also on my list but not risen to the top. I have pulled up one small section that delaminated due to water infiltration. Small screws held down the cabin sole under teak plugs. Check out the link below for suppliers by state. Good luck. Ian s/v Meant to Be
This project is also on my list but not risen to the top. I have pulled up one small section that delaminated due to water infiltration. Small screws held down the cabin sole under teak plugs. Check out the link below for suppliers by state. Good luck. Ian s/v Meant to Be
Not an inexpensive project 
We have a 79 H30 and the sole was sooo delaminated from a leaky charcoal cabin heater that was vented out through the cabin roof-near the mast *yks. Anyway, the teak/holly 1/4 plywood looked like it was screwed down but when we pulled the bungs out we didn't find any screws. We ended up just pulling up the sole as it was only secured with some type of calk type material. It came right up once we got enough up to give it a good pull. Getting that calk up was another story, we ended up scraping it up with a razor. I am going to order my replacement sole from Noah's marine. They are a Canadian company and when you factor in the exchange rate & shipping, for us it will work out to about $180.00ish for a 4X8 1/4 sheet, the prices are pretty good. The only modification that we are planning on making to the sole is to use nonskid under the nav station/quarterbirth area and in front of the gally. It would take more than one full sheet of the teak/holly to replace what we pulled out and two sheets of sole material just isn't in my budget.
We have a 79 H30 and the sole was sooo delaminated from a leaky charcoal cabin heater that was vented out through the cabin roof-near the mast *yks. Anyway, the teak/holly 1/4 plywood looked like it was screwed down but when we pulled the bungs out we didn't find any screws. We ended up just pulling up the sole as it was only secured with some type of calk type material. It came right up once we got enough up to give it a good pull. Getting that calk up was another story, we ended up scraping it up with a razor. I am going to order my replacement sole from Noah's marine. They are a Canadian company and when you factor in the exchange rate & shipping, for us it will work out to about $180.00ish for a 4X8 1/4 sheet, the prices are pretty good. The only modification that we are planning on making to the sole is to use nonskid under the nav station/quarterbirth area and in front of the gally. It would take more than one full sheet of the teak/holly to replace what we pulled out and two sheets of sole material just isn't in my budget.
teak and holly replacement
Probably all of the Cherubini boats had similar detailing on the sole for when I replaced half on my 79 H33 I found the same situation that Tammy did, bungs that had nothing underneath and with the sole fastened to the pan with adhesive. Scratching my head on this one, I decided that the rationale for the bungs is as follows: With a pattern of adhesive between the bottom of the plywood and the pan there would be potential for water once introduced to be held there to the detriment of the teak and holly so Hunter attempted to provide an outlet for any trapped water by drilling these holes which go not only through the teak and holly but also through the pan and then enlarged the hole in the teak and holly for a bung. Now there is a drainage hole down to the hull itself and thence to the bilge for any water trapped. When I replaced my sole I made sure that the original holes in the pan were kept open but saw no need to install new bungs. Good way to cut for a new sole is to get the old one out and use it for a pattern. Once cut a great opportunity to head off future water trouble is to epoxy seal the edges and back of the plywood before installing. Even though the plywood is warped to fit the pan contour, it is gentle enough that strategically placed weights will hold it in contact till the adhesive sets.
Probably all of the Cherubini boats had similar detailing on the sole for when I replaced half on my 79 H33 I found the same situation that Tammy did, bungs that had nothing underneath and with the sole fastened to the pan with adhesive. Scratching my head on this one, I decided that the rationale for the bungs is as follows: With a pattern of adhesive between the bottom of the plywood and the pan there would be potential for water once introduced to be held there to the detriment of the teak and holly so Hunter attempted to provide an outlet for any trapped water by drilling these holes which go not only through the teak and holly but also through the pan and then enlarged the hole in the teak and holly for a bung. Now there is a drainage hole down to the hull itself and thence to the bilge for any water trapped. When I replaced my sole I made sure that the original holes in the pan were kept open but saw no need to install new bungs. Good way to cut for a new sole is to get the old one out and use it for a pattern. Once cut a great opportunity to head off future water trouble is to epoxy seal the edges and back of the plywood before installing. Even though the plywood is warped to fit the pan contour, it is gentle enough that strategically placed weights will hold it in contact till the adhesive sets.
Solid flooring option
Here is a site that sells solid teak flooring. http://www.worldpanel.com/marine.htm
Here is a site that sells solid teak flooring. http://www.worldpanel.com/marine.htm
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