Replacing bulkhead

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Daydreams

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Aug 9, 2005
129
Beneteau 373 Baltimore
The partial bulkhead that seperates the galley area and the starboard settee on my 299 has obviously been replaced, and poorly. I can see where it was once tabbed to the hull, but now, the bulkhead is 2 inches from touching the hull,, In fact, it has 2 fresh water lines running between the bulkhead and the hull. Can someone open their cabinet door under the stove and tell me if the bulkhead is supposed to be flush against the hull and tabbed? Also,, looking forward under the starboard settee, about even with the shower pan and maybe 6 inches higher than the shower pan, there are 2 wooden blocks glassed into the hull and a fiberglass ledge. What was this supposed to be before the previous owner all but ruined an otherwise fine boat. Thanks..
 
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Mort Fligelman

Galley Bulkhead

John: The bulkhead that you refer to is indeed supposed to be tabbed to the hull "SIDE".....there was enough room left under this bulkhead for the bilgepump hose and the fresh water system line to go under......about 1 Inch.... I really don't remember how far down the "Tabbing" came on the starboard Side.....Hope this has been of some help!
 
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Adrian Phillips S 37

replacing baulkheads

Dear John, Further to your article on baulkhead replacement.I have had to replace three baulkheads on my S37 due to water ingress throgh the chain plates,they all looked OK. but when pressure was put on them they just fell apart. I was very suprised to find that the baulkheads wer only tabed in on one side and at the top with a gap varying between one inch and two inches between the edge and the hull and also the top and the deck ! With the new ones I am fitting I have cut them to fit tight,and intend to tab them in on both sides.Unless this I can't see any benifit from the original design and think that it was a very poor quality job.Does anyone else have any comments on this subject please......
 
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CaptHawk

Bulkhead Replacement

Bulkhead Replacement: The correct way to replace a bulkhead is not to make it tight to the glass;this will create a hard spot, point loading the glass and making stress cracking a future problem.Done right,there should be a gap of 1/2 inch all around.Bulkhead is tabbed in with small short pieces of glass to hold it in place.( I usually cut small wood wedges to hold the bulkhead before tabbing.) Next a putty of thickened expoxy resin should be sqeegied in between the hull/deck and wooden bulkhead to form a fillet of glass for the bulkhead to compress against, thereby spreading the load over a wider area. Next glass 3-4" onto the wood and hull/deck. Make sure the bulkhead has been prepped along the edge to be glassed by stripping off any smooth verneer or mica.There should be raw wood for the glass to adhere to. Make sure you grind the glass areas and wipe with acetone before you apply the glass.If you have access to both sides, both sides should be glassed.If the glassed areas are exposed to view, I cut teak trim to cover the area.Done correctly you will have a strong repair as good as the original.If I can be of any help via phone you can reach me at 904-349-6872.I am a retired boat builder/yacht designer with 30 years in the marine industry.I can email/fax you a drawing if that is a help. Cheers; Capt. Hawk Hawkins s/v ROGUEWAVE
 
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