Replacing broken forestay

Nov 12, 2009
259
J/ 32 NCYC, Western Lake Erie
I need to replace the forestay after noticing one broken strand when installing the mast head anemometer and spar fly this spring. (The boat is a J/32, not that it should really matter for my question.)

Has anyone ever cut the top mast fitting, in this case a T-ball, off the broken forestay and then used the rest of the broken stay as a messenger to pull the new forestay through the furling assembly? My concern is getting a small enough connection that will pass through the furler section joints, and still be strong enough to withstand the pull.
Thanks in advance.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,079
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Sue, that is not the standard approach to installing the forestay.

First, secure the mast with a halyard to the bow so that the mast stays upright.
Next, remove the forestay and fuller, laying it on the ground or supporting it on saw horses so it does not bend.
Use the forestay to identify the length of the replacement.
Slide the new for stay through the fuller, taking care at each joint to get the forestay adequately centered. If there is a problem, remove the joint, then reconnect.
With the forestay installed, reinstall the fuller on the boat.

This follows the original install instructions. Refer to them for your furler if additional detail is needed.
 
May 29, 2018
491
Canel 25 foot Shiogama, japan
One thing that I will add to John's post
"First, secure the mast with a halyard to the bow so that the mast stays upright. "

Loosen the rear stay to take some tension off the forestay and make it easier to remove.

Mark the rear stay turnbuckle with tape to show where you need to re-tighten it to.

gary
 
Jan 11, 2014
12,178
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Has anyone ever cut the top mast fitting, in this case a T-ball, off the broken forestay and then used the rest of the broken stay as a messenger to pull the new forestay through the furling assembly?
The wire is stiff enough that a messenger won't be necessary. Changing the forestay would mean someone working at the masthead without the forestay attached. The mast stability would be dependent on using the spin and jib halyards as temporary forestays.

Have the new forestay made with the T-ball at one end and the lower end bare and a bit long. Climb the mast, secured the foil so it doesn't fall. Cut the fitting at the bottom of the mast off and pull the old forestay out. Once out, feed the new forestay in from the top, cut to fit and install a Sea-Lok fitting to connect to the stem plate.

While this might be done while hanging on the mast, it would be safer from the security of a man lift. All this might be easier said than done.

Good Luck! :beer:
 
Nov 12, 2009
259
J/ 32 NCYC, Western Lake Erie
I guess I should have mentioned, the mast is down, and I have already removed the bottom portion of the furler to expose the old wire and turnbuckle. After getting the furler apart I don't think there is any easy way that I can/could be doing this with the mast up - just not enough room to slide things apart to take accurate measurements and then make the connections.
I should also mention, because the original forestay has a T-ball fitting at the top end there is virtually no way to remove it with the mast up and the furler still on the stay. The T-ball requires the shroud to be at almost a 90° angle to the mast to remove or install it. Believe me, that was the 1st approach I considered!
 
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Jan 11, 2014
12,178
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I guess I should have mentioned, the mast is down, and I have already removed the bottom portion of the furler to expose the old wire and turnbuckle. After getting the furler apart I don't think there is any easy way that I can/could be doing this with the mast up - just not enough room to slide things apart to take accurate measurements and then make the connections.
I should also mention, because the original forestay has a T-ball fitting at the top end there is virtually no way to remove it with the mast up and the furler still on the stay. The T-ball requires the shroud to be at almost a 90° angle to the mast to remove or install it. Believe me, that was the 1st approach I considered!
This makes a huge difference. The turnbuckle stud should be small enough to slide through the foil. The wire is stiff enough and the foil straight enough for the wire to slide through foil without a problem. At least it was on the 2 furlers I've installed. Just pull the old one out and slide the new one in.
 
Sep 24, 2018
3,002
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
If cutting bare wire, be sure to use some cutters made for wire rope. Standard wire cutters smash and make a mess of the strands
 
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