how do replace the bow eye on a 25 ft sailboat? The bow eye is loose, it can adjust a 1/2 in and out. I was told you have to find the bolts in the bow in most sailboats.
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Bow Eye
Jimbo, I've not had to mess with mine, but it looks like it registers where I've got a panel screwed in vertically at the bow in the V-berth. Pull that out and see if you can get to it. Otherwise the only other access I could imagine would be all the way up under the V-berth, which, unless they put the bow eye on before installing the cabin liner, I cannot imagine from a production stand-point having it below the V-berth.
Jimbo, I've not had to mess with mine, but it looks like it registers where I've got a panel screwed in vertically at the bow in the V-berth. Pull that out and see if you can get to it. Otherwise the only other access I could imagine would be all the way up under the V-berth, which, unless they put the bow eye on before installing the cabin liner, I cannot imagine from a production stand-point having it below the V-berth.
Been there done that.
I had to drill a 1.5" hole using a hole saw. Removed nuts with a long extension and I believe a 9/16 socket. Replaced same with fender washers. It drew the eye in nicely. From what I could see it appeared that the nut and what ever washer they had in there was pulling through the fiber glass. When you drill the hole you have to drill it much higher than the U bolt, other wise you will not be square with the nut. The first hole I drilled was at level with the U bolt and was not able to get even a universal socket on it. I redrill about a foot higher and was able to use the socket wrench there. The first hole worked out well however because it allowed me to see what I was doing. To reassemble I jammed the nut into the socket with a piece of paper to hold it in place. When you replace the nuts start the nuts with you finger and run in several turns to make sure that you haven't cross threaded them. If you do cross thread them you will have to remove U bolt which I can imagine would be problematic since it appears th the bolts has openned up slightly (on mine anyway) and does not come out easilyl. I had to use steel washers instead of stainless the way I would have like because I used a telescoping magnet to place the washers. I was able to find a plugs to cover the hole at OSH Hardware. In fact I bought the plug before deciding on the size of the hole. Don't waste you time removing the upper panel it does nothing for the cause. You will find styrofoam back there but just push it out of the way. Good luck if you need picks let me know, going sailing this weekend.
I had to drill a 1.5" hole using a hole saw. Removed nuts with a long extension and I believe a 9/16 socket. Replaced same with fender washers. It drew the eye in nicely. From what I could see it appeared that the nut and what ever washer they had in there was pulling through the fiber glass. When you drill the hole you have to drill it much higher than the U bolt, other wise you will not be square with the nut. The first hole I drilled was at level with the U bolt and was not able to get even a universal socket on it. I redrill about a foot higher and was able to use the socket wrench there. The first hole worked out well however because it allowed me to see what I was doing. To reassemble I jammed the nut into the socket with a piece of paper to hold it in place. When you replace the nuts start the nuts with you finger and run in several turns to make sure that you haven't cross threaded them. If you do cross thread them you will have to remove U bolt which I can imagine would be problematic since it appears th the bolts has openned up slightly (on mine anyway) and does not come out easilyl. I had to use steel washers instead of stainless the way I would have like because I used a telescoping magnet to place the washers. I was able to find a plugs to cover the hole at OSH Hardware. In fact I bought the plug before deciding on the size of the hole. Don't waste you time removing the upper panel it does nothing for the cause. You will find styrofoam back there but just push it out of the way. Good luck if you need picks let me know, going sailing this weekend.
Eye bolt
My eyebolt needs replacing as well. This is typical from what I understand of the Mac 25 in our age bracket and an easy fix. The only way I can see to do it properly is cut the front section above the v berth to allow access to the Bow. This will give you the best way to see the extent of repair that is required and ensure that the eyebolt support is strong enough and not rotted away. It will also allow you to get at it without being a contortionist. I plan on using a piece of stainless 1/4 about 12-14 " long and fiberglass it into position. Of course holes will be pre drilled to align it in place. This will give the Eyebolt a surface to exert a downward force evenly accorss a wider area and should never come out. Very important when trying to get it on the trailer from a steep incline. The Mac dealer in Hamilton Ont. Dowsars marine told me oak or a similair hardwood would work. The hole can then be covered with a vent or cover. I was thinking of placing an ornamental framed mirror over it to sort of enhance the cabin. May even use this area for storing extra sheets or all those knic knacs sailors tend to collect
My eyebolt needs replacing as well. This is typical from what I understand of the Mac 25 in our age bracket and an easy fix. The only way I can see to do it properly is cut the front section above the v berth to allow access to the Bow. This will give you the best way to see the extent of repair that is required and ensure that the eyebolt support is strong enough and not rotted away. It will also allow you to get at it without being a contortionist. I plan on using a piece of stainless 1/4 about 12-14 " long and fiberglass it into position. Of course holes will be pre drilled to align it in place. This will give the Eyebolt a surface to exert a downward force evenly accorss a wider area and should never come out. Very important when trying to get it on the trailer from a steep incline. The Mac dealer in Hamilton Ont. Dowsars marine told me oak or a similair hardwood would work. The hole can then be covered with a vent or cover. I was thinking of placing an ornamental framed mirror over it to sort of enhance the cabin. May even use this area for storing extra sheets or all those knic knacs sailors tend to collect
pictures
If you have pictures that would be very helpfull. I was planning on going in thru the front and removing the foam and try to get at the hardware. I tried before and there isn't allot of room to work.
If you have pictures that would be very helpfull. I was planning on going in thru the front and removing the foam and try to get at the hardware. I tried before and there isn't allot of room to work.
Not to worry fender washers worked fine.
I tried to put a 3/16"X1"X5" strap with two holes but as I mentioned the U bolt on mine appeared to open up and the holes did not align. Too dificult to hassle. Big fender washers (1.5" o.d. 3/8 i.d.) worked just fine. I thought about cutting the pannel but I didn't want to weaken the liner. I almost forgot other essentials are long sleeves, gloves and a mask. That fiberglass is a bitch. I'll post picts on Saturday.
I tried to put a 3/16"X1"X5" strap with two holes but as I mentioned the U bolt on mine appeared to open up and the holes did not align. Too dificult to hassle. Big fender washers (1.5" o.d. 3/8 i.d.) worked just fine. I thought about cutting the pannel but I didn't want to weaken the liner. I almost forgot other essentials are long sleeves, gloves and a mask. That fiberglass is a bitch. I'll post picts on Saturday.
Bow eye repair
I found the same thing on my Mac 25. The wood had turned to powder with dry rot. I placed brass tubing around the shafts of the u-bolt type bow eye, and then put it back into position. I packed the area where the wood was with Marine Tex. I used stainless washers as backing plates, and bolted it down. The tubing allows me to removed the bow eye at any time without major surgery. This also prevents cracking of the filler if the bow eye receives a blow. Several moored boats at my club broke loose in a storm several years back and new mooring rules were drawn up. One is that the primary mooring line attachment cannot be the bow eye. I originally thought this an intrusive regulation until I inspected my bow eye and found that it would have pulled out in a light breeze.
I found the same thing on my Mac 25. The wood had turned to powder with dry rot. I placed brass tubing around the shafts of the u-bolt type bow eye, and then put it back into position. I packed the area where the wood was with Marine Tex. I used stainless washers as backing plates, and bolted it down. The tubing allows me to removed the bow eye at any time without major surgery. This also prevents cracking of the filler if the bow eye receives a blow. Several moored boats at my club broke loose in a storm several years back and new mooring rules were drawn up. One is that the primary mooring line attachment cannot be the bow eye. I originally thought this an intrusive regulation until I inspected my bow eye and found that it would have pulled out in a light breeze.
here's what I did...
http://www.mnagy.net/mac21/Articles/p2_articleid/16 I keep meaning to take pictures of my handiwork. I'll be down at the boat tomorrow, so I'll take a few pictures. But if you can picture things in your head, my article should make sense to you. Unless I'm just not a good writer. lol
http://www.mnagy.net/mac21/Articles/p2_articleid/16 I keep meaning to take pictures of my handiwork. I'll be down at the boat tomorrow, so I'll take a few pictures. But if you can picture things in your head, my article should make sense to you. Unless I'm just not a good writer. lol
Relieved stress on eye bolt.
There is a lot of stress on that eyebolt, especially with some of the dips on the freeways. When towing the trailer I have been strapping down the bow with a 3" webbing and rachet hooked to the trailer frame. Very secure now. Decided to do this after the stitching on the trailer inch rotted and let go. I watched the bow bounce two feet in the air. Fortunately weight of the keel kept it from flying completely off.
There is a lot of stress on that eyebolt, especially with some of the dips on the freeways. When towing the trailer I have been strapping down the bow with a 3" webbing and rachet hooked to the trailer frame. Very secure now. Decided to do this after the stitching on the trailer inch rotted and let go. I watched the bow bounce two feet in the air. Fortunately weight of the keel kept it from flying completely off.
Spread the load
I did this with a previous boat and it looks like I'll have to do it on my Mac. I have access to thick mahogany but a piece of pressure treated 4x4 will do. What I did for a boat that didn't have an eyebolt at all is to cut the mahogany into a v shape and form it to fit the v of the inside of the bow. I went probably six to 8 inches above and below the eye plus about four inches to the sides. Then, to make sure I was getting as equal pressure as I could, I used a 1/2" piece of semi-firm rubber between the block of wood and the hull. And, of course, sealed the holes where the eye went into the hull. No problems winching that 4000 pound boat onto the trailer.
I did this with a previous boat and it looks like I'll have to do it on my Mac. I have access to thick mahogany but a piece of pressure treated 4x4 will do. What I did for a boat that didn't have an eyebolt at all is to cut the mahogany into a v shape and form it to fit the v of the inside of the bow. I went probably six to 8 inches above and below the eye plus about four inches to the sides. Then, to make sure I was getting as equal pressure as I could, I used a 1/2" piece of semi-firm rubber between the block of wood and the hull. And, of course, sealed the holes where the eye went into the hull. No problems winching that 4000 pound boat onto the trailer.
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