Replacing autopilot on 2001 Hunter 290

pfaffk

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Mar 4, 2011
52
Hunter 290 Haverstraw
Good Afternoon, I have a 2001 Hunter 290 with a Ray Marine ST4000+ wheel autopilot. The wheel assemble is slowly breaking, with 4 wheels which have broken off, and the sheer pin on the clutch has broken several times and the hole in the lever is now round. I have repaired all of the and bought some SS pins so the unit does work, but would not trust it going through NY Harbor, up the East River or on a long cruise. It’s OK for day sailing on the Hudson River.

I am looking into replacing it and looking for advice on the best approach going forward. There are 3 options as I see it. Option 1 Simple buy a new Wheel unit. The downside as I see it is that the electrics are old, original to the boat and the autopilot actually says Raython not Ray Marine. Is it worth spending $500 plus on a new wheel?

Option 2 would be to buy a new up to date wheel pilot for about $1500 or so. The downside for me is the incessant noise the wheel pilot makes. The reason the current one lasted 18 years is that I don’t use it when I am sailing as it drives me nuts. I use it when motoring, or rising / lowering the sails or going below but not when I am just sailing. Also I should note that I sail single handed 99% of the time.

Option 3 would be to buy a new linear drive autopilot and move the noise down below, with the downside being cost at about double $3000 and a 29 ft boat might be on the small side for a linear drive.

What are your thoughts, what would you suggest/recommend. Thanks
 
Jun 8, 2004
2,841
Catalina 320 Dana Point
If your AP is working too much it needs to be tweaked a little to suit your boat, I've gone into the "dealer set-up" mode and changed the settings. You can change some settings "on the fly", by momentarily pressing the 2 one degree buttons it brings up "rudder response". If it's overworking turn it down, when you maybe start getting hit by gusts and it's not responding fast enough to the weather helm you turn it up. When you do it this way whenever it is powered down the AP settings will return to default, by doing it in dealer set-up they remain changed. Catalina's use various versions of what is called the "Catalina Cocktail", basically the boats have fewer than 2 revolutions on the wheel and the settings apply to other boats with less than 3 turns. The pilot settings have a range from 1 to 3 or 1 to 10 and the default is midrange which is rarely the ideal. A wheel pilot should work well on your boat, I use mine 90% of the time. I've used below deck pilots that worked too much also and they are just as annoying. I have a written copy of the settings I'm currently using on the boat but I've found one on the RM knowledge base that should give you a guide toward adjusting yours. I'm using a gray st6000 control head with the MkI black wheel drive and my back-up is an older black control head labeled Autohelm (90's) vintage. I think you can make option 1 work well.
1. Change the Rudder Gain from 5 to 2
2. Change the Auto Trim from 3 to 2
3. Change the Response from 1 to 2
4. Change the Drive Type from 1 to 2

Please avoid changing the drive type if possible. If the turns on the wheel from lock to lock are less than 2 then you might try the Rudder Gain at 1.
http://www.raymarine.com/knowledgebase/index.cfm?view=4717
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,885
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
A rudder position transducer (if one is not fitted) will help a LOT..
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
@pfaffk
Option 1 Simple buy a new Wheel unit
  • This is the least cost. You will have the same system you have now but with a new plastic wheel. They are not significantly changed so there is some chatter and some noise as the belt rotates around when you are steering. No real way around it unless you redesign the wheel system.
Option 2 would be to buy a new up to date wheel pilot
  • This has the same wheel system as you have now so noise is similar to your present system. You will get an improved sensor and an updated computer. The new system is better at keeping a course setting then your system. The sensor is more responsive and learns your boat. It is a quick commissioning where you go out and sail a circle and it is done. Two button push and it steers a tack. Handy for me as a solo sailor in now I can handle the sheets for the genoa while the boat steers the tack.
Option 3 would be to buy a new linear drive autopilot
  • You pay the cost but you get the benefits. The noise is contained below decks. The system is much beefier and able to handle greater sea states. Conditions that I would not let my EV100 control the boat in. The Sensor is like the EV100 or 150.
For me it would be a decision based on cost and the type of sailing I was planing to sail. Ocean passages with trade wind conditions where following seas means the need of strong control, I would go with Option 3. More benign conditions and a source of funds to buy the new system I would pull the check book out. I think I paid about 1100 for the system. It was on sale in December. Check out Defender, or GPS Store. Look for their sales. Also Raymarine often runs discount adds during Boat Shows.
If Cost is the driving factor then Option 1 would fit my bill.
 
Oct 29, 2005
2,355
Hunter Marine 326 303 Singapore
I would go with new wheel (Grey color). You may not have enough room/space at rudder to fit a linear drive.

Ken Y