I'm looking to purchase a 1987-90 Legend 37, and I have a couple of questions regarding gear. I've seen a couple that the need all the halyards, sheets and lines that lead to the cockpit clutches replaced. Are the halyards inside the mast the Wire/Rope type? and how many. Could anyone give me an idea of how much would it cost if I buy them at Boat U.S. and if I would be able to do it myself or do I need a specialist to do it (I am able to climb to the top of the mast if necesary). Does anyone have had Central Air conditioning/Heat installed? Were is the central unit installed and how many output vents are there? How good is the original Hood roller furling (double line)?, is it good or does it need to be replaced to a one line type. Thank you
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Halyard Replacment
Ozana: Replacing halyards is an easy do it yourself job. The key is to get the proper size line and the proper length. I have done this on several boats. One method is to sew the two lines together with thread (whipping line works well). Another method is to use a large paper clip (much quicker). I have posted the link to the Photo Forum for your review. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Dion73112378230&fno=17 Call Hunter they will give you the proper line sizes for all of the running rigging. If you just need an estimate, you can take the 'I' measurement and double it, then add about 20' to that length. Then you can price out the lines with the shops of your choice. Pyacht.com has very good prices on this stuff. Be sure that you have your shackles spliced on the line rather than tying a knot (a knot will weaken the line by up to 75-80% depending on the type of knot that you use. The eye splices cost about $10-20ea depending on the shop and the type of line. I would assume that all of the lines on these boats are all rope. As far as the furler goes, most sailors want to get rid of the continuous line and convert to a single line. The cost of the conversion kit is about $500. Cannot help you with the A/C.
Ozana: Replacing halyards is an easy do it yourself job. The key is to get the proper size line and the proper length. I have done this on several boats. One method is to sew the two lines together with thread (whipping line works well). Another method is to use a large paper clip (much quicker). I have posted the link to the Photo Forum for your review. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Dion73112378230&fno=17 Call Hunter they will give you the proper line sizes for all of the running rigging. If you just need an estimate, you can take the 'I' measurement and double it, then add about 20' to that length. Then you can price out the lines with the shops of your choice. Pyacht.com has very good prices on this stuff. Be sure that you have your shackles spliced on the line rather than tying a knot (a knot will weaken the line by up to 75-80% depending on the type of knot that you use. The eye splices cost about $10-20ea depending on the shop and the type of line. I would assume that all of the lines on these boats are all rope. As far as the furler goes, most sailors want to get rid of the continuous line and convert to a single line. The cost of the conversion kit is about $500. Cannot help you with the A/C.
Lines
Go to www.pyacht.com for much better prices on rope. Learn to do your own eye splices. You'll save yourself a lot of money in the long run. I just replaced all the rigging on our Sabre 28 and did about a dozen or so splices. (The halyards were Sta-Set X and the rest of the lines were Sta Set.) A set of fids, some needles and whipping twine are a good investment. The New England Ropes web site had very good instructions on splicing. Given the strength of high tech ropes these days, I wouldn't bother with a wire & rope halyard.
Go to www.pyacht.com for much better prices on rope. Learn to do your own eye splices. You'll save yourself a lot of money in the long run. I just replaced all the rigging on our Sabre 28 and did about a dozen or so splices. (The halyards were Sta-Set X and the rest of the lines were Sta Set.) A set of fids, some needles and whipping twine are a good investment. The New England Ropes web site had very good instructions on splicing. Given the strength of high tech ropes these days, I wouldn't bother with a wire & rope halyard.
Ancient Chinese method.
At Cherubini Boat we had a system for reeving halyards through new spars that will work for replacing them as well. It's fast and simple and reliable-- we'd have no time for whipping lines or anything like that. In typical boat-shop lunacy this system got known reverently as the 'ancient Chinese method', even including mandatory dialogue and sight gags. Of course we did this on new boats with the spar lying down, and it came with a twine or carpenter's-string lead for reeving halyards. But you have a line in yours too-- it's the old halyard. Cut off the shackle. Take black electrical tape (use 3M; cheap stuff cannot be trusted) and start about 12 inches from the end, wrapping tightly around about 5 or 6 times at 90 degrees. Then simply BUTT the other line into the end and wrap the tape on a long diagonal till the whole 24 inches is completely covered to the same place on the other line. Then finish off with another 90-degree wrap and snip off the tape. It has to be an unbroken run of tape-- you will have used about a million feet of it (at $5 a roll). Then you do the same thing from the other end going on the opposite diagonal, to guard against the wrap twisting open. The final touch: the 'ancient Chinese' method of rolling the whole thing very quickly between your palms, back and forth, with some kind of ridiculous teeth-clenching grin on your face. (It feels funny but gets the wrinkled tape all seated against the line as tightly as possible.) Make sure you explain to anyone nearby, 'This is the ancient Chinese method.' Voila. Now DO NOT attempt to pull this mess UP inside the mast to the halyard sheaves. Rather, go up the mast on the other halyard and feed it back down. Be gentle-- but if the 'ancient' (LOL) method is done right, you will be surprised how well electrical tape alone will hold and flex, especially if you are there to 'help' it up and over the sheave. Then it's back up on your new halyard to do the same thing for the other one. JC 2
At Cherubini Boat we had a system for reeving halyards through new spars that will work for replacing them as well. It's fast and simple and reliable-- we'd have no time for whipping lines or anything like that. In typical boat-shop lunacy this system got known reverently as the 'ancient Chinese method', even including mandatory dialogue and sight gags. Of course we did this on new boats with the spar lying down, and it came with a twine or carpenter's-string lead for reeving halyards. But you have a line in yours too-- it's the old halyard. Cut off the shackle. Take black electrical tape (use 3M; cheap stuff cannot be trusted) and start about 12 inches from the end, wrapping tightly around about 5 or 6 times at 90 degrees. Then simply BUTT the other line into the end and wrap the tape on a long diagonal till the whole 24 inches is completely covered to the same place on the other line. Then finish off with another 90-degree wrap and snip off the tape. It has to be an unbroken run of tape-- you will have used about a million feet of it (at $5 a roll). Then you do the same thing from the other end going on the opposite diagonal, to guard against the wrap twisting open. The final touch: the 'ancient Chinese' method of rolling the whole thing very quickly between your palms, back and forth, with some kind of ridiculous teeth-clenching grin on your face. (It feels funny but gets the wrinkled tape all seated against the line as tightly as possible.) Make sure you explain to anyone nearby, 'This is the ancient Chinese method.' Voila. Now DO NOT attempt to pull this mess UP inside the mast to the halyard sheaves. Rather, go up the mast on the other halyard and feed it back down. Be gentle-- but if the 'ancient' (LOL) method is done right, you will be surprised how well electrical tape alone will hold and flex, especially if you are there to 'help' it up and over the sheave. Then it's back up on your new halyard to do the same thing for the other one. JC 2
Just Thinking, but....
Since both the old and the new lines are braid, what about cutting a section of cover or core out of each one and overlap them together. The overlap should be approximately the same diameter as the regular line and if not just take a few strands out until it is. Tie the overlap together with some whipping line or sew them together then tape the rough edges. Disadvantage is one would loose about 6 to 12 inches of the new line at whatever $ per foot. Plus side it should be a very strong joint and not as much tapeing would be required. I've never done this but was just thinking about it after reading the posts. Comments?
Since both the old and the new lines are braid, what about cutting a section of cover or core out of each one and overlap them together. The overlap should be approximately the same diameter as the regular line and if not just take a few strands out until it is. Tie the overlap together with some whipping line or sew them together then tape the rough edges. Disadvantage is one would loose about 6 to 12 inches of the new line at whatever $ per foot. Plus side it should be a very strong joint and not as much tapeing would be required. I've never done this but was just thinking about it after reading the posts. Comments?
Why bother!
John N: Why bother messing with all of this. I have not tried John C's method (just chicken) but that makes everything even easier (as long as it works). I have used the method of sewing the lines together with whipping thread and used the paper clip method. I doubt that I would ever sew them together again (too much trouble). Next time I may try the tape only method.
John N: Why bother messing with all of this. I have not tried John C's method (just chicken) but that makes everything even easier (as long as it works). I have used the method of sewing the lines together with whipping thread and used the paper clip method. I doubt that I would ever sew them together again (too much trouble). Next time I may try the tape only method.
I have done it this way..
..by overlapping a small messenger line to the halyard, wrapping it with whipping line, and then taping the whole mess so that it would go through the sheaves. I suppose if the sheaves are undersized, it could be a problem. PS: this is also how I irregularly wash the lines and fabric soft them. Works great, and also uncovers unseen wear sometimes leading to replacement. OTOH you may find this will save you new lines, especially since you can end-for-end them on the way back in. No warranties expressed or implied... Rick D.
..by overlapping a small messenger line to the halyard, wrapping it with whipping line, and then taping the whole mess so that it would go through the sheaves. I suppose if the sheaves are undersized, it could be a problem. PS: this is also how I irregularly wash the lines and fabric soft them. Works great, and also uncovers unseen wear sometimes leading to replacement. OTOH you may find this will save you new lines, especially since you can end-for-end them on the way back in. No warranties expressed or implied... Rick D.
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