My rudder snapped off at the glassline last weekend, I have secured the replacement (Hunter 27, 1980). Wanted to double check that I could do this in the water and wondered if anybody had some pointers they could offer. Thanks, Bryan
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Jack Laird
Why not.
The top of the rudder stuffing box is above the water line, easy to check. Pull the old rudder and insert the new. Should be a fun job. Have fun.
The top of the rudder stuffing box is above the water line, easy to check. Pull the old rudder and insert the new. Should be a fun job. Have fun.
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Ben Mesker
Just a thought
The rudder on my 28.5 is made of a special foam to make it neutraly bouyant. I would assume yours is the same. You probebly already knew that. Anyway I would definately do it in a minimal depth of water. By the way, what is a glass line? Is it the place where the fiberglass begins on the shaft or is it a seam line somewhere?
The rudder on my 28.5 is made of a special foam to make it neutraly bouyant. I would assume yours is the same. You probebly already knew that. Anyway I would definately do it in a minimal depth of water. By the way, what is a glass line? Is it the place where the fiberglass begins on the shaft or is it a seam line somewhere?
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Frank Walkker
Several Times
Bryan, I have a Hunter 30 and have removed the rudder in the water several times. On my boat the ruder is near neutral in the water but because of the heavy SS tube it would prefer to float with the pipe pointed down rather than up. Once you get it pointed in the up direction then inserting into the bearings is probably easier than when on dry land. However, you will need some air. I don't think this would work out having to pop to the surface every 30 sec. for a breath. I have a extension hose for my diving regulator that allows the tank to remain on deck. Works out pretty easy. Frank
Bryan, I have a Hunter 30 and have removed the rudder in the water several times. On my boat the ruder is near neutral in the water but because of the heavy SS tube it would prefer to float with the pipe pointed down rather than up. Once you get it pointed in the up direction then inserting into the bearings is probably easier than when on dry land. However, you will need some air. I don't think this would work out having to pop to the surface every 30 sec. for a breath. I have a extension hose for my diving regulator that allows the tank to remain on deck. Works out pretty easy. Frank
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Bob Rutland
Yes with scuba gear
A friend and I replaced mine on our 84 H31 using scuba gear. Our rudder is 4' and the post is another 4' so we had to be in 10' of water to get it under the boat. The biggest problem is the rudder is foam and the post is stainless steel. So the end you want to go up sinks to the bottom and the rudder wants to bob like a cork. Rudder fatigue seems to have been a problem in most eary 80's Hunters. Have Fun !! Bob S/V Lady Di II
A friend and I replaced mine on our 84 H31 using scuba gear. Our rudder is 4' and the post is another 4' so we had to be in 10' of water to get it under the boat. The biggest problem is the rudder is foam and the post is stainless steel. So the end you want to go up sinks to the bottom and the rudder wants to bob like a cork. Rudder fatigue seems to have been a problem in most eary 80's Hunters. Have Fun !! Bob S/V Lady Di II
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Doug
If you do in on the hard
Make sure they don't put you in the yard on stands as your stern won't be off the ground high enough for you to get the rudder tube inserted into the lower bearing. Make sure you start it while in the sling. for that matter, they should be able to lift you, have you stick it up the rudder tube and splash. Good luck
Make sure they don't put you in the yard on stands as your stern won't be off the ground high enough for you to get the rudder tube inserted into the lower bearing. Make sure you start it while in the sling. for that matter, they should be able to lift you, have you stick it up the rudder tube and splash. Good luck
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Dan Bryant
Done it
I've had to re-insert the rudder twice while in the water on my 1980 H27. It failed the same way yours did: crevice corrosion at the stainless steel junction where the glass created an oxygen starved coating on steel. You don't need scuba gear; you will only be under water for a few seconds at a time (and yes, it will take a couple of tries to get it in - budget 20 minutes). The rudder bottom floats, while the top sinks, so to counter this you have the ride the rudder like a stick pony, keeping the shaft pointed up. Submerge the rudder in this way, and, keeping it perfectly vertical, align it with the hole. The fit is very tight, so don't try taping over the top to keep water out of the shaft - it will jam on the tape (experience speaking). Archemedes will keep it in place, so slowly let it float all the way in to the bearing. Hard as it is, its better than trying it on land; you would have to dig a hole in the lot to get it to fit!
I've had to re-insert the rudder twice while in the water on my 1980 H27. It failed the same way yours did: crevice corrosion at the stainless steel junction where the glass created an oxygen starved coating on steel. You don't need scuba gear; you will only be under water for a few seconds at a time (and yes, it will take a couple of tries to get it in - budget 20 minutes). The rudder bottom floats, while the top sinks, so to counter this you have the ride the rudder like a stick pony, keeping the shaft pointed up. Submerge the rudder in this way, and, keeping it perfectly vertical, align it with the hole. The fit is very tight, so don't try taping over the top to keep water out of the shaft - it will jam on the tape (experience speaking). Archemedes will keep it in place, so slowly let it float all the way in to the bearing. Hard as it is, its better than trying it on land; you would have to dig a hole in the lot to get it to fit!
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