Replacing a Hull Port

[Paul Akers]

I've just ordered a replacement hull port for my 1988 Legend 37. I plan on replacing it myself. Are there any special tools required? Sealants? Timeframe? Tricks? Things to watch out for?I'd appreciate any special advice/warnings. I've already checked the other postings below regarding replacing fixed ports.Thanks.

 

[Jim Ewing]

Possible help

Are you replacing a framed or unframed port. If unframed I can maybe help as I did that on my 37.5 last weekend.

 

[Paul Akers]

Unframed

The port is unframed and has trim rings inside and out. The dogs are integrated (connected) into the inboard trim ring and are the screw type.

 

[Jim Ewing]

Possible help 2

The port I replaced was an non-opening port that used a sealant (DOW 795) as the seal and the adhesive. I think the ones with the trim ring use a mechanical mounting (screws or bolts) to hold them in place and a gasket of some kind for waterproof-ness. Have you asked Hunter tech support for the details on mounting? If it does use a chemical sealant make sure you let the sealant cure before snugging down on the bolts or screws. Tightening them too soon can sqeeze all the sealant out and result in leaks.Jim "Prospect"

 

[Paul Akers]

Got the replacement part

I got the replacement and ready to start. There are ten retaining screws on the inside hull flange that don't line up with the old ones (Pompanette told me this, so it's no surprise) probable due to design/strength reasons. The measurements look like a perfect fit. I plan to pop the old one out by cutting thru the old caulk & clean away any old caulking. I'll fill in the old holes, redrill the new ones (carefully) and then I'll reseat with 3M4200 and the 10 screws. How's this sound, anyone?

 

[Ted Hoeller]

Port lights flush with deck

I just purchased a 1988, Hunter Legend, 35.5 and have tried to seal the port lights that are flush with the deck. I used black marine caulk and completely filled the entire seating area but with no luck. All four lights still leak like crazy!Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[Paul Akers]

Job completed

Replacing the hull port was easier than I expected. Two people worked on it - one inside and one outside. The elliptical ports need to have the seal broken from the outside by cutting along the edge with a razor knife. Inside remove the 10 screws on the trim ring and pull the port in - real easy.Cleaned off any residue. The trim ring screws were screwed into a plywood spacer ring attached to the inboard hull. Because the new ring had differently designed screw holes (12 screws), the new holes had to be drilled with pilot holes. I caulked the new port, inserted it, screwed it in. I filled the outboard edge with a silicon sealant. Completed time - less than one hour.