I need to replace my cutlass bearing on the out drive. I have never done this before but Im not affaid to take on the challenge. I was wondering if anyone has any experience in replacing the bearing what want kind of tools will I need to do the job.
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It's not a big deal
You will need a gear puller of some sort to get the prop off. Then pull the shaft after you pull the prop. Then make up a puller to pull the cutlass bearing out of the strut. Don't forget there are set screws in the strut holding the bearing in. Some use a hacksaw blade to make a cut in the cutlass bearing, making it much easier to get out. The bearing puller is basically a piece of all thread rod, with the proper size washers, spacers on it to force the cutlass bearing out of the strut, and the new one back in. If you can't scrounge up or make the pullers, it might be easier to pay the yard to do the job, the first time. Watch the process, and then next time you will be able to do it pretty easily.
You will need a gear puller of some sort to get the prop off. Then pull the shaft after you pull the prop. Then make up a puller to pull the cutlass bearing out of the strut. Don't forget there are set screws in the strut holding the bearing in. Some use a hacksaw blade to make a cut in the cutlass bearing, making it much easier to get out. The bearing puller is basically a piece of all thread rod, with the proper size washers, spacers on it to force the cutlass bearing out of the strut, and the new one back in. If you can't scrounge up or make the pullers, it might be easier to pay the yard to do the job, the first time. Watch the process, and then next time you will be able to do it pretty easily.
Shaft
The shaft usually needs to be pulled to get access to the bearing and this can be the toughest part of the job. Often the flanges are rusted together and it requires a good deal of coaxing to separated the shaft from the flange, or the the two flanges from each other.
The shaft usually needs to be pulled to get access to the bearing and this can be the toughest part of the job. Often the flanges are rusted together and it requires a good deal of coaxing to separated the shaft from the flange, or the the two flanges from each other.
When I did this job
on my H28.5 recently, I found it "easier" to just drop the strut (similar to what you show in your pic)after the transmission coupling had been undone. I then just pulled the shaft and prop out and took them home to work on in my basement. I needed to drill out the two frozen allen screws holding the old cutlass bearing in place (and retap the holes when I replaced the bearing). I then inserted a hacksaw blade into the cutlass bearing and carefully cut the old bearing in half. I froze the new bearing to shrink it somewhat and used dishwashing liquid to lube the hole in the strut before tapping the new bearing in place with a rubber mallet. Once you get everything back together, pay careful attention to engine alignment as discussed by others here after the boat has been sitting in the water a few days. As noted by other posters, getting the trans coupling off may be the hardest part of the job.
on my H28.5 recently, I found it "easier" to just drop the strut (similar to what you show in your pic)after the transmission coupling had been undone. I then just pulled the shaft and prop out and took them home to work on in my basement. I needed to drill out the two frozen allen screws holding the old cutlass bearing in place (and retap the holes when I replaced the bearing). I then inserted a hacksaw blade into the cutlass bearing and carefully cut the old bearing in half. I froze the new bearing to shrink it somewhat and used dishwashing liquid to lube the hole in the strut before tapping the new bearing in place with a rubber mallet. Once you get everything back together, pay careful attention to engine alignment as discussed by others here after the boat has been sitting in the water a few days. As noted by other posters, getting the trans coupling off may be the hardest part of the job.
Thanks for the Help Guys
First as far as the bolts go I loosened them, second I sent a second picture to see if u are in fact right with the prop being on wrong. Also the shaft on or off? I think the easiest way (HA HA) to get at the bearing is to that off the shaft NO?
Tom
First as far as the bolts go I loosened them, second I sent a second picture to see if u are in fact right with the prop being on wrong. Also the shaft on or off? I think the easiest way (HA HA) to get at the bearing is to that off the shaft NO?
Tom
Attachments
Pulling the shaft
Jim, if you have to ask why pull the shaft, I am assuming that you either have never done this or else you have a super neat trick that I am not aware of. If you do have a really neat trick for doing this without pulling the shaft please share. It can be difficult to get the bearing out after you pull the shaft. A real PITA with the shaft in place. It can be done, so I hear, but I don't think I even want to try. Unbolting the strut might be an easier way to go, if you can get to it. I would still strongly recommend that anyone who isn't mechanically inclined and good with tools to have it done by a pro. at least the first time.
Jim, if you have to ask why pull the shaft, I am assuming that you either have never done this or else you have a super neat trick that I am not aware of. If you do have a really neat trick for doing this without pulling the shaft please share. It can be difficult to get the bearing out after you pull the shaft. A real PITA with the shaft in place. It can be done, so I hear, but I don't think I even want to try. Unbolting the strut might be an easier way to go, if you can get to it. I would still strongly recommend that anyone who isn't mechanically inclined and good with tools to have it done by a pro. at least the first time.
In theory...
...you don't have to pull the shaft. If you don't have an existing alignment problem that caused the bearing to go in the first place (shaft passing throught the bearing concentrically and parallel...check for an even gap all around front and back) it might be worth buying the strutpro tool (although my friend bought one and doesn't like it). They sell a single purpose set up. I emailed them for cost and thought it was way over priced at about $4-500, if I recall correctly. However, after what I went through...that price is sounding MUCH more reasonable to me now. It cost me $350 for parts / refurbishing plus $70 in gas plus about 30 man hours of work (four days of work, including all the running around, but not to/from the marina...which was four hours round trip at 20 mpg). About 8 man hours was required fussing around with the alignment. In my case I had no choice because that prop was not coming off (broke three pullers). If you can get your prop off (ask the marina to loan you / rent you a puller) and you have no alignment issue it may be worth considering. Likewise, if your marina has the strutpro tool (some do) and will do the job for $500...it may be worth considering in my opinion.
Just a quick word of caution...never rotate the shaft in the bearing without lubricating it with water first. It will damage the bearing.
...you don't have to pull the shaft. If you don't have an existing alignment problem that caused the bearing to go in the first place (shaft passing throught the bearing concentrically and parallel...check for an even gap all around front and back) it might be worth buying the strutpro tool (although my friend bought one and doesn't like it). They sell a single purpose set up. I emailed them for cost and thought it was way over priced at about $4-500, if I recall correctly. However, after what I went through...that price is sounding MUCH more reasonable to me now. It cost me $350 for parts / refurbishing plus $70 in gas plus about 30 man hours of work (four days of work, including all the running around, but not to/from the marina...which was four hours round trip at 20 mpg). About 8 man hours was required fussing around with the alignment. In my case I had no choice because that prop was not coming off (broke three pullers). If you can get your prop off (ask the marina to loan you / rent you a puller) and you have no alignment issue it may be worth considering. Likewise, if your marina has the strutpro tool (some do) and will do the job for $500...it may be worth considering in my opinion.
Just a quick word of caution...never rotate the shaft in the bearing without lubricating it with water first. It will damage the bearing.
Cutlass Bearing Removal
I made a tool to remove my cutlass bearing with the shaft still in place. The link below will take you to the instructions I followed on how to make your own puller. It is specific to a 1" shaft like my H34 has. Change the dimenensions for a different shaft size.
The entire process of pulling the old bearing and pressing in the new one took 15 minutes. I have the tool now for the future. Make sure you coat the new bearing with grease before pressing it in. That will facilitate future removal.
Its not rocket science to do and you can save big $$$ in yard expenses. There is also the satisfaction of doing a project like this yourself.
Attached is a photo of my puller in action removing the bearing.
Regards,
Allan
I made a tool to remove my cutlass bearing with the shaft still in place. The link below will take you to the instructions I followed on how to make your own puller. It is specific to a 1" shaft like my H34 has. Change the dimenensions for a different shaft size.
The entire process of pulling the old bearing and pressing in the new one took 15 minutes. I have the tool now for the future. Make sure you coat the new bearing with grease before pressing it in. That will facilitate future removal.
Its not rocket science to do and you can save big $$$ in yard expenses. There is also the satisfaction of doing a project like this yourself.
Attached is a photo of my puller in action removing the bearing.
Regards,
Allan
Nice Tool
I have a question about the front pipe that pushes out the bearing ,is that cut in half to go over the shaft?
I have a question about the front pipe that pushes out the bearing ,is that cut in half to go over the shaft?
Split pipe
Yes, the pipe is split to go over the prop shaft behind the strut where it can not be slid into place. Same reason that one set of plates has a slot up to the hole. The original author said to use a hose clamp to hold the pipe halves together. I found that it stayed together by it self once some compression was applied and it started to push into the strut. I should have started with a longer piece of pipe. By the time I got it all cut down I had to leave some of the threaded end just so it was long enough to get all the way through the strut. Turns out that after the cutlass has come about 3/4 of the way out you can just pull it out by hand.
Before I started, I did squirt some thread penetrant into the holes where the set screws are just to help get things moving. That seemed to work as I saw movement as soon as I got a little squeeze on both bolts. If it won't start, tap lightly on the bolts after tightening them a little bit. Just go slow and only tighten each one a little bit at a time.
Yes, the pipe is split to go over the prop shaft behind the strut where it can not be slid into place. Same reason that one set of plates has a slot up to the hole. The original author said to use a hose clamp to hold the pipe halves together. I found that it stayed together by it self once some compression was applied and it started to push into the strut. I should have started with a longer piece of pipe. By the time I got it all cut down I had to leave some of the threaded end just so it was long enough to get all the way through the strut. Turns out that after the cutlass has come about 3/4 of the way out you can just pull it out by hand.
Before I started, I did squirt some thread penetrant into the holes where the set screws are just to help get things moving. That seemed to work as I saw movement as soon as I got a little squeeze on both bolts. If it won't start, tap lightly on the bolts after tightening them a little bit. Just go slow and only tighten each one a little bit at a time.
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