I am getting ready to haul my 1982 37C for a variety of repairs including replacing the cutlass bearing, Packing gland and stuffing box. If I cant remove the coupling from the forward end of the shaft, I may have to cut the shaft to remove it and replace it with new. My question is whether the rudder has to be removed, or is there enough room to slide a new shaft by the rudder through the strut and hull before putting the new cutlass and packing gland in place? I would appreciate any suggestions. John Killian texassailor50@hotmail.com
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David
1 INCH SHAFT
John, When I replaced my shaft I loosened the strut bolts in order to move the shaft to one side of the rudder. I then rebed the strut with 3M 5200 at reassembly. You shouldn't have to cut the shaft. After you have removed the coupler from the transmission you can buy, rent or borrow a coupler puller to get it off the shaft. When I did this I switched to a split coupler which makes everything a lot easier the next time. If you can't get a coupler puller e-mail me for a method that doesn't require a puller. surveyor@shore.net
John, When I replaced my shaft I loosened the strut bolts in order to move the shaft to one side of the rudder. I then rebed the strut with 3M 5200 at reassembly. You shouldn't have to cut the shaft. After you have removed the coupler from the transmission you can buy, rent or borrow a coupler puller to get it off the shaft. When I did this I switched to a split coupler which makes everything a lot easier the next time. If you can't get a coupler puller e-mail me for a method that doesn't require a puller. surveyor@shore.net
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Ed Schenck
Strut rebedding.
David is correct, loosening the shaft strut will allow you to clear the rudder. Reach the nuts through the deck plate by the water heater. Use much larger washers behind the nuts when you reassemble. Better yet is to fabricate a s/s plate to put behind the nuts. I used 4200 though, did not want to permanently attach the strut to the hull.
David is correct, loosening the shaft strut will allow you to clear the rudder. Reach the nuts through the deck plate by the water heater. Use much larger washers behind the nuts when you reassemble. Better yet is to fabricate a s/s plate to put behind the nuts. I used 4200 though, did not want to permanently attach the strut to the hull.
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Walt G
removing coupler
When it comes time to remove the coupler from the prop shaft, try this: loosen the jam nuts, unbolt the coupler flanges, and insert a socket (smaller than the 1-inch shaft diameter) between the flanges so it rests on the shaft. Then bolt the flanges together again and tighten evenly. As you tighten the flanges, the socket will push the shaft out of the rear coupler. You may need to get some longer flange bolts, and you may need to switch to a deeper socket as the shaft is pushed out. This takes a little time, but works well and doesn't require any pounding. Good lucks
When it comes time to remove the coupler from the prop shaft, try this: loosen the jam nuts, unbolt the coupler flanges, and insert a socket (smaller than the 1-inch shaft diameter) between the flanges so it rests on the shaft. Then bolt the flanges together again and tighten evenly. As you tighten the flanges, the socket will push the shaft out of the rear coupler. You may need to get some longer flange bolts, and you may need to switch to a deeper socket as the shaft is pushed out. This takes a little time, but works well and doesn't require any pounding. Good lucks
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Gene Gruender
Easier strut work next time!
I made a few changes that make messing with the strut easier. I'm not sure how the factory did it, but when I got Rainbow Chaser there were bolts from the outside going through the strut and into the inside of the boat, with nuts and washers on the inside. It took two people, and it was still a chore. Make this change: Take two stainless bolts of the proper length. Weld a rod on the top of the head to stick out about 4" to the side, and angled up just a bit. Install the bolts from the inside using fender washers bedded in your favorite compound. Then put the nut on the outside. As you turn the nut, the rod will hit the side of the hull and you won't need that guy inside with a wrench. You won't have to take out the water heater. Using this method I've had the prop shaft and strut out and back in twice, by myself, in the water. Obviously you'll have to install them out of the water the first time or deal with some water coming in, but after that it's much easier.
I made a few changes that make messing with the strut easier. I'm not sure how the factory did it, but when I got Rainbow Chaser there were bolts from the outside going through the strut and into the inside of the boat, with nuts and washers on the inside. It took two people, and it was still a chore. Make this change: Take two stainless bolts of the proper length. Weld a rod on the top of the head to stick out about 4" to the side, and angled up just a bit. Install the bolts from the inside using fender washers bedded in your favorite compound. Then put the nut on the outside. As you turn the nut, the rod will hit the side of the hull and you won't need that guy inside with a wrench. You won't have to take out the water heater. Using this method I've had the prop shaft and strut out and back in twice, by myself, in the water. Obviously you'll have to install them out of the water the first time or deal with some water coming in, but after that it's much easier.
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Ron
Email
John, I answered your e-mail about Amateur Radio but never heard from you.. Are you still interested.. I'm at Portofino.. Ron/KA5HZV
John, I answered your e-mail about Amateur Radio but never heard from you.. Are you still interested.. I'm at Portofino.. Ron/KA5HZV
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Han Pfeiffer
I did it
John: I just finished the same task. Although it was a tight squeeze I was able to slide the old shaft past the rudder and out. I too had to cut the coupler off and have a new shaft made. Putting the new one in is simple, remember to put the cutlass bearing in after you install the shaft. Han Pfeiffer
John: I just finished the same task. Although it was a tight squeeze I was able to slide the old shaft past the rudder and out. I too had to cut the coupler off and have a new shaft made. Putting the new one in is simple, remember to put the cutlass bearing in after you install the shaft. Han Pfeiffer
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hp
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Gene Gruender
Where are you?
If you're in Texas, a good place is P&V Machine shop in San Leon (I thinnk I have the shop and town name right - it's been a bit). He makes most in the Texas coast area, cost for the 52" one you need is a little over $200. Take your coupler - he'll machine it true on the new shaft. He can also make a new coupler cheaper than Yanmar's if you need one. He's made both for me in the past. Email me at rainbow_chaser@compuserve.com if I can give you more details.
If you're in Texas, a good place is P&V Machine shop in San Leon (I thinnk I have the shop and town name right - it's been a bit). He makes most in the Texas coast area, cost for the 52" one you need is a little over $200. Take your coupler - he'll machine it true on the new shaft. He can also make a new coupler cheaper than Yanmar's if you need one. He's made both for me in the past. Email me at rainbow_chaser@compuserve.com if I can give you more details.
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