Anyone know the approximate cost of replacement decals for a H26/H260 or something thereabouts? Just wondering what the cost is and everyone at Hunter is on vacation. Thanks.
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Felix Titling Font...
The font Hunter uses is Felix Titling, which is a propritary font. By knowing that, and the size of the letters, any graphics shop can make up the letters in any color you wish. The stipe is typically 1/2" grey. They can be professionally installed, but I have done my own with the same results. I guess installation is up to do decide your capibilites. The cost of $30 is probably pretty close for ballpark. Steve
The font Hunter uses is Felix Titling, which is a propritary font. By knowing that, and the size of the letters, any graphics shop can make up the letters in any color you wish. The stipe is typically 1/2" grey. They can be professionally installed, but I have done my own with the same results. I guess installation is up to do decide your capibilites. The cost of $30 is probably pretty close for ballpark. Steve
Decals and Scotch
I would suggest picking up some inexpensive decals and a bottle of good scotch. Probably run you about $50. Chances are you would be left with some very stylish and memorable boat markings. Your boat would then have a certain uniqueness that others would admire.
I would suggest picking up some inexpensive decals and a bottle of good scotch. Probably run you about $50. Chances are you would be left with some very stylish and memorable boat markings. Your boat would then have a certain uniqueness that others would admire.
Looks Like This
Thanks Guys! A great way to update that damn stupid ugly squigley thing on the side of the boat.I am going to take this to a sign guy here and see what they can do. I found the font in Word so you may already have it. Any idea on what the colors are on the blue and maroon are they standard stock colors?
Thanks Guys! A great way to update that damn stupid ugly squigley thing on the side of the boat.I am going to take this to a sign guy here and see what they can do. I found the font in Word so you may already have it. Any idea on what the colors are on the blue and maroon are they standard stock colors?
Attachments
It may depend on the year
I have a 1994 23.5 and I called Hunter to get the font name so I could match my registration numbers to the Hunter font (yes I am obsessive compulsive!). The Hunter lettering font is Albertus Medium with rounded intersect points. Any sign shop has this font also. Good Luck
I have a 1994 23.5 and I called Hunter to get the font name so I could match my registration numbers to the Hunter font (yes I am obsessive compulsive!). The Hunter lettering font is Albertus Medium with rounded intersect points. Any sign shop has this font also. Good Luck
Lettering
Since were on the subject(sort of). Has anyone experience in putting their own lettering on. I took the squiggly line off the back of the H26 and was going to put our name there. How do you do it? I was going to put it at sort of a 30 degree angle running from where the "Hunter 26" ends. Never done this before and could use some suggestions. I was going to do it when I pulled her out of the water for the winter. Thanks Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Since were on the subject(sort of). Has anyone experience in putting their own lettering on. I took the squiggly line off the back of the H26 and was going to put our name there. How do you do it? I was going to put it at sort of a 30 degree angle running from where the "Hunter 26" ends. Never done this before and could use some suggestions. I was going to do it when I pulled her out of the water for the winter. Thanks Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Piece of Cake!
Paul, It is relatively easy. This is based on purchasing your lettering form a sign shop. Your lettering will be sadwiched between two sheets of paper. A backing paper and a cover paper holding all the lettering in position when it is computer generated. 1) Ensure surface is clean by using windex (I've been told this cuts through the wax) 2) Draw a line with a pencil to determine where you want to apply your lettering. The pencil will leave a faint line to use as a guide. 3) Attach a piece of wide masking tape along the entire top edge of the lettering strip leaving half of the width of the tape exposed to attach to the hull in the position that you want the lettering (using the pencil mark as a guide). The tape will act as a hinge. Carefully affix to the hull the masking tape with the lettering strip attached. 4) Make vertical cuts with scissors in the lettering strip between the letters. You will end up with multiple flaps of letters attached in the exact position you want the lettering. 5) Lift the first letter flap and grasp the paper backing at the top under the "hinge" and peel DOWN. As you peel the backing use a PLASTIC putty knife with downward strokes to press the letter down onto the hull. Work out the air bubbles as you go. DO NOT rub directly on the lettering. Always ensure you have a piece of backing paper between the letter and the squeege/putty knife to prevent tearing the lettering. 6) Repeat Step 5 for all letters 6) Carefully remove the entire strip of cut up cover paper and you are finished. In my humble opinion, there is nothing worse than seeing someone spend his or her hard earned money on a boat and diminsh the asthetic value of it by using hardware store peel and stick letters to put the name of their boat or registration numbers on it! People would be surprised how relatively inexpensive professional lettering is. My registration numbers only cost $15 for a set from a local sign shop and he threw in two extra just in case! Good luck. Jonathan Costello s/v Heeling Powers
Paul, It is relatively easy. This is based on purchasing your lettering form a sign shop. Your lettering will be sadwiched between two sheets of paper. A backing paper and a cover paper holding all the lettering in position when it is computer generated. 1) Ensure surface is clean by using windex (I've been told this cuts through the wax) 2) Draw a line with a pencil to determine where you want to apply your lettering. The pencil will leave a faint line to use as a guide. 3) Attach a piece of wide masking tape along the entire top edge of the lettering strip leaving half of the width of the tape exposed to attach to the hull in the position that you want the lettering (using the pencil mark as a guide). The tape will act as a hinge. Carefully affix to the hull the masking tape with the lettering strip attached. 4) Make vertical cuts with scissors in the lettering strip between the letters. You will end up with multiple flaps of letters attached in the exact position you want the lettering. 5) Lift the first letter flap and grasp the paper backing at the top under the "hinge" and peel DOWN. As you peel the backing use a PLASTIC putty knife with downward strokes to press the letter down onto the hull. Work out the air bubbles as you go. DO NOT rub directly on the lettering. Always ensure you have a piece of backing paper between the letter and the squeege/putty knife to prevent tearing the lettering. 6) Repeat Step 5 for all letters 6) Carefully remove the entire strip of cut up cover paper and you are finished. In my humble opinion, there is nothing worse than seeing someone spend his or her hard earned money on a boat and diminsh the asthetic value of it by using hardware store peel and stick letters to put the name of their boat or registration numbers on it! People would be surprised how relatively inexpensive professional lettering is. My registration numbers only cost $15 for a set from a local sign shop and he threw in two extra just in case! Good luck. Jonathan Costello s/v Heeling Powers
Off with the old and on with the New
I have a couple comments - OUT WITH THE OLD The old stickers come off very easily with a heat gun. A hair dryer might work, but it would have to be a hot one. I used my wife's heat gun that she uses for crafting - worked fine. Be aware, though, that the hull YELLOWS over time. When I removed my swoosh, I the gelcoat was much whiter underneath. I spoke to Greg at Hunter, and he told me that the gelcoat will natrually do this because of UV rays. There are a few choices: (1) live with it - its only noticable if you're up close; (2) wait. over time, it will yellow as well, though probably never as much as the area around it (3) lightly sand the area. Greg suggested the yellowing is only in the outer part of the gelcoat, and light sanding will bring out the white underneath. There are lots of risks with sanding though. Lets just say I did not choose this option. ON WITH THE NEW I had someone put on my new name, but I've since learned a few things. You can get these signs made up at a local shop, and even on the internet - you can do your own designs, choose your own colors, etc. Do a search, or write me an e-mail and I'll share the site name I used (for a different project). Along with the purchase of the letters, I bought some "application fluid". Its really just dish soap thinned out with water, but I left the mixing to the pros, and just bought the product. Anyway, you spray this stuff on before you apply the sticker. It allows you a lot more room for error - you can slide the sticker around a little, or work out any bubbles. When I got it where I wanted it, I left the outer paper attached and taped it all in place for a few hours. When the application stuff dries, you can peel-off the top layer to reveal your new name! Good luck!
I have a couple comments - OUT WITH THE OLD The old stickers come off very easily with a heat gun. A hair dryer might work, but it would have to be a hot one. I used my wife's heat gun that she uses for crafting - worked fine. Be aware, though, that the hull YELLOWS over time. When I removed my swoosh, I the gelcoat was much whiter underneath. I spoke to Greg at Hunter, and he told me that the gelcoat will natrually do this because of UV rays. There are a few choices: (1) live with it - its only noticable if you're up close; (2) wait. over time, it will yellow as well, though probably never as much as the area around it (3) lightly sand the area. Greg suggested the yellowing is only in the outer part of the gelcoat, and light sanding will bring out the white underneath. There are lots of risks with sanding though. Lets just say I did not choose this option. ON WITH THE NEW I had someone put on my new name, but I've since learned a few things. You can get these signs made up at a local shop, and even on the internet - you can do your own designs, choose your own colors, etc. Do a search, or write me an e-mail and I'll share the site name I used (for a different project). Along with the purchase of the letters, I bought some "application fluid". Its really just dish soap thinned out with water, but I left the mixing to the pros, and just bought the product. Anyway, you spray this stuff on before you apply the sticker. It allows you a lot more room for error - you can slide the sticker around a little, or work out any bubbles. When I got it where I wanted it, I left the outer paper attached and taped it all in place for a few hours. When the application stuff dries, you can peel-off the top layer to reveal your new name! Good luck!
Piece of Cake Question
Jonathan, Why do you cut the letters? Would it be simpler just to leave the whole strip attached? Sounds like it's a pretty straight forward process. One of the other posts mentioned "applicating fluid". Which he says is just dish soap. Do you recommend? Seems like a a good idea to give you some more forgiveness if you make a mistake. Thanks Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Jonathan, Why do you cut the letters? Would it be simpler just to leave the whole strip attached? Sounds like it's a pretty straight forward process. One of the other posts mentioned "applicating fluid". Which he says is just dish soap. Do you recommend? Seems like a a good idea to give you some more forgiveness if you make a mistake. Thanks Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Paul
The sign maker told me, and I found it to be true, that by cutting the letters in to indivudual pieces or two to a section allows increased control of peeling off the backing paper and preventing the sticking/creasing/improper positioning of the letters rather than trying to control the entire sheet of backing paper. When I purchased the lettering I also asked the sign maker about the fluid and he told me that with the masking tape hinge method there is no need for the fluid because the letters are already in position and you control when the letters get adhered to the boat by peeling off the backing paper in a controlled manner. The thing I like about the masking tape method is that you are not limited in your positioning time by when the fluid drys out. Once the positioning fluid drys out you are litterally stuck! With the hinge tape method you can take your time by sticking a few letters then take a break for your favorite frosty beverage and come back and do some more. Hope this helps.
The sign maker told me, and I found it to be true, that by cutting the letters in to indivudual pieces or two to a section allows increased control of peeling off the backing paper and preventing the sticking/creasing/improper positioning of the letters rather than trying to control the entire sheet of backing paper. When I purchased the lettering I also asked the sign maker about the fluid and he told me that with the masking tape hinge method there is no need for the fluid because the letters are already in position and you control when the letters get adhered to the boat by peeling off the backing paper in a controlled manner. The thing I like about the masking tape method is that you are not limited in your positioning time by when the fluid drys out. Once the positioning fluid drys out you are litterally stuck! With the hinge tape method you can take your time by sticking a few letters then take a break for your favorite frosty beverage and come back and do some more. Hope this helps.
Jonathan
Hey!!! Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how they come out. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Hey!!! Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how they come out. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
cutting the letters
I thing that with the application fluid, there is no need to cut the letters. You can move the whole thing around (a little), and easily remove creases or bubbles. In fact, I would recommend against cutting them up because if they are all stuck to the same piece of top paper, then there is absolutely no chance you can get them out of alignment. If you cut them up, then you might be off a little when you paste them up. $.02
I thing that with the application fluid, there is no need to cut the letters. You can move the whole thing around (a little), and easily remove creases or bubbles. In fact, I would recommend against cutting them up because if they are all stuck to the same piece of top paper, then there is absolutely no chance you can get them out of alignment. If you cut them up, then you might be off a little when you paste them up. $.02
Call Hunter
as I did for my 1983 34', and they mailed me a new set from the factory free of charge,they are simple to install... just line them up and peel apart, and yes I would definitely buy another Hunter... just because of reasons like this....
as I did for my 1983 34', and they mailed me a new set from the factory free of charge,they are simple to install... just line them up and peel apart, and yes I would definitely buy another Hunter... just because of reasons like this....
Check the attached site
if you want to do it easy and right... I got my lettering for the boat name from them once and it was a breeze...
if you want to do it easy and right... I got my lettering for the boat name from them once and it was a breeze...
Vinyl Lettering
Vinyl is easy and pretty reasonable price, just take your time, and follow instructions... good luck s/v Island Girl
Vinyl is easy and pretty reasonable price, just take your time, and follow instructions... good luck s/v Island Girl
Vinyl Lettering
Hey Ray, nice job on the lettering!!! Between the info you gave me and Jonathan I shouldn't have a problem. I checked out the link site. Great info. If I don't like the way it looks I can just take it off and reapply a new set. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Hey Ray, nice job on the lettering!!! Between the info you gave me and Jonathan I shouldn't have a problem. I checked out the link site. Great info. If I don't like the way it looks I can just take it off and reapply a new set. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Old lettering
I wouldn't worry much about the old lettering showing... mine had two other names since 1983 and it seems the only time I could see them was during application of the new... mostly because I knew they were there... once you put the new ones on and get it in the water... attention will be drawn just to the new lettering...
I wouldn't worry much about the old lettering showing... mine had two other names since 1983 and it seems the only time I could see them was during application of the new... mostly because I knew they were there... once you put the new ones on and get it in the water... attention will be drawn just to the new lettering...
Sailnet sells stripes
If your looking at replacing just the stripes check out sailnet.com. They have tons of colors and thickness' to chose from. I have read replys on here that discourage putting strips on by yourself but if you take your time (it took me all day for my 22 footer- 4 stripes on each side) and look into some tricks you may be real surprised with the outcome and the savings you gain.
If your looking at replacing just the stripes check out sailnet.com. They have tons of colors and thickness' to chose from. I have read replys on here that discourage putting strips on by yourself but if you take your time (it took me all day for my 22 footer- 4 stripes on each side) and look into some tricks you may be real surprised with the outcome and the savings you gain.
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