Has anyone changed their wastewater tank on their Hunter 310 (2000)? How to remove the old tank and put the new one back in place? should I cut? Thank !
Replacement of Wastewater tank
- Thread starter Dibid
- Start date
On our '99, I removed the tank in order to have an additional vent fitting installed and then re-installed the tank.
No problems other than the basic principles of any hose job
.
1. Use a hair dryer and ensure each vinyl hose is about 110 F before removing and installing.
2. With the heavy wire wound 1-1/2" hoses, get them to 120-130 before working on .
3. Use Superlube to install the hoses. Do not use mineral lubes as they may destroy the tube material.
4. Throw in a few hose clamps as needed.
5. Make sure sure to renew all hoses on the tank, both sewage handling and vents, as they will be permeated by now if they have not been previously replaced.
Bit of a bugger but give it a day or so, for both out and in.
Just out of curiosity, why are you replacing the original tank ?
No problems other than the basic principles of any hose job
.1. Use a hair dryer and ensure each vinyl hose is about 110 F before removing and installing.
2. With the heavy wire wound 1-1/2" hoses, get them to 120-130 before working on .
3. Use Superlube to install the hoses. Do not use mineral lubes as they may destroy the tube material.
4. Throw in a few hose clamps as needed.
5. Make sure sure to renew all hoses on the tank, both sewage handling and vents, as they will be permeated by now if they have not been previously replaced.
Bit of a bugger but give it a day or so, for both out and in.
Just out of curiosity, why are you replacing the original tank ?
I change tanks, because it smells a lot and it leaks a little around the sensor. I want to take the opportunity to change all the pipes, because of the smell, and to enlarge the vent line pipe to 1 '' . I also want to see if I can put a bigger tank; 26 gal. or otherwise the same, made by Dura Cast. It is certain that the tank smells, I rub a cloth on it and there is a strong smell, and it smells in the boat. Did adding another wind line change anything? Your tank doesn't smell?
Added an additional vent line at the stern. It doesn't improve the smell when sitting at the dock but removes all smell after being out for a few hours. The two different locations on the hull are usually looking at slightly different air pressures due to wind and that's what gets a good air flow going through the tank. No more gas attacks when someone flushes the head at anchor.
As far as the the tank surface smelling of H2S, I don't think they permeate. I think you're looking at a transfer of smell from one or more bad hoses. Perhaps @Peggie Hall HeadMistress can share her experience here as to how long PE tanks last and do they permeate.
As far as the sensor flange leaking, the factory sealant is 3M 4200 which doesn't stick to PE so hence the leakage. You can remove the flange, clean it up and use Permatex #2 which is about the only sealant which will stick to PE.
If you're removing the tank solely for increasing from 20 to 26 gal. that's a whole different story.
Thank you very much for all these informations, it is much appreciated. Without a doubt, it is my tank among other things, which smells bad.
I am not sure yet for the size, but it is certain that I will change it, as well as all the hoses, including the vent hose.
i need a new sender unit and i add a cleening port on the top of the tank.
I take note of the product, Thank you!
Did you drill the holes in your hull yourself?
I have to oversize my true hull vent.
Have you drill the hull bigger, after that filled with epoxy and redrill to the right diameter?
I am not sure yet for the size, but it is certain that I will change it, as well as all the hoses, including the vent hose.
i need a new sender unit and i add a cleening port on the top of the tank.
I take note of the product, Thank you!
Did you drill the holes in your hull yourself?
I have to oversize my true hull vent.
Have you drill the hull bigger, after that filled with epoxy and redrill to the right diameter?
Very easy using a hole saw.
As far as drilling a hole larger, my practice has been to pound in a wooden dowel and then use that as the guide for a larger hole. As far as drilling a smaller hole, fortunately I haven/t had that problem YET
. Should it arise, as you say, I would fill in the hole with FG and then proceed to drill a smaller hole.
I agree with Ralph.
Better yet, don't use any sealant...instead use a rubber gasket to seal the flange and a rubber o-ring to seal the cap. Both are available from Beckson and other inspection port mfrs.
As for a new tank, DuraCast standard wall thickness is only 1/4". Ronco Plastics Ronco Plastics marine Tanks is your best source for a new tank. They make TOP quality thick-walled (3/8") water and waste tanks for a very reasonable price and have more than 400 shapes and sizes, over 100 of which are non-rectangula.. And they install fittings in the sizes and locations specified by the customer when they make the tank.
And finally...the tank, unless it's leaking is never the source of odor INSIDE the boat because odor from inside the tank has only one place to go: out the tank vent, gassing everyone within as much as 50 yards of the boat.
All your questions and comments make it obvious that y'all NEED my book (see link in my signature)...and sbo.com has SIGNED copies on sale right now. You order from them, I sign and mail them from my office. I only have about 5 left for this promotion.
The title (my publisher's idea) is a bit misleading...'cuz although it does deal with every source of odor on a boat and how to cure, or better yet PREVENT 'em, it's actually a comprehensive "marine toilets and sanitation systems 101" manual that explains the laws, describes all the types of systems and how they work, and will help you learn how to operate and maintain your system to prevent 99% of problems instead of having to cure 'em. 'Cuz you get to do any preventive maintenance on your terms when it's convenient...the need to cure a problem never happens when it is! And I'm always glad to answer any questions it doesn't.
(End of shameless book promotion)
--Peggie
Thank you both for all these informations.
I contacted RARITAN to have a price, having seen in the past, if I am not mistaken, that you "Peggy" said that the tanks were good quality.
There Tank are 3/8 ", and have the same list as RONCO for a quality that seems equal to me.
I wonder if the RONCO tanks are less expensive, because they, unlike RARITAN, charge costs that are unknown to me, for delivery to Plattsburgh NY. What do you think?
Pierre
I contacted RARITAN to have a price, having seen in the past, if I am not mistaken, that you "Peggy" said that the tanks were good quality.
There Tank are 3/8 ", and have the same list as RONCO for a quality that seems equal to me.
I wonder if the RONCO tanks are less expensive, because they, unlike RARITAN, charge costs that are unknown to me, for delivery to Plattsburgh NY. What do you think?
Pierre
Raritan doesn't make tanks...they sell Ronco Plastics tanks at much higher price than you can get them directly from Ronco. So the answer to your questions is, no--Ronco does NOT charge costs that Raritan doesn't. And their shipping charges are what UPS charges them.
--Peggie
--Peggie