I'm replacing the original H23 fiberglass motor mount with an adjustable Garrelick motor mount. At least that's the plan. I believe that the transom is solid enough to handle it just as it is as I have seen a few around and in pictures on the web. I'm going to hang a 5hp Mercury 2 cycle on it. I'm considering reinforcing the transom though. What do you think? Anyone done it? Where and how did you reinforce the transom if you did? A picture or two would be great if you have them: sullrich@integraonline.com Thanks!
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John Schaub
New motor mount
Since your going with a pretty light motor (5hp 2 cycle) I don't think you need to reinforce that transom. If you look inside the boat on that side you can see it was reinforced from the factory. If you plan on moving it to the other side, or hanging a 115 pound 10hp electric start 4 cycle that's another story.
Since your going with a pretty light motor (5hp 2 cycle) I don't think you need to reinforce that transom. If you look inside the boat on that side you can see it was reinforced from the factory. If you plan on moving it to the other side, or hanging a 115 pound 10hp electric start 4 cycle that's another story.
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Brian Conneely
just to be safe
I backed the adjustable motor mount with a scrap piece of mahogany I had kickin around and backed the bolts with aluminum backing plates and fender washers. this may be overkill but at least I can rest assure that its on there good and the load is evenly distributed. brian h23 kickin' back
I backed the adjustable motor mount with a scrap piece of mahogany I had kickin around and backed the bolts with aluminum backing plates and fender washers. this may be overkill but at least I can rest assure that its on there good and the load is evenly distributed. brian h23 kickin' back
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Bill Lipp
Which mount are you going with?
Greetings Steve, What model mount are you going with? I was on their website but the number of options made me bleary-eyed. I also have to replace my mount. The fiberglass is cracking and although it feels solid, I don't want to see the engine go puttering off in another direction when the mount decides to fail. Many thanks, Bill
Greetings Steve, What model mount are you going with? I was on their website but the number of options made me bleary-eyed. I also have to replace my mount. The fiberglass is cracking and although it feels solid, I don't want to see the engine go puttering off in another direction when the mount decides to fail. Many thanks, Bill
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Steve Ullrich
Mount type...
I found a used one on eBay for $50.00. A new one at West Marine is listed as: GARELICK 71037:01 315101 Only $159.99 USD. I just saw a competitor on eBay this evening listed as Outboard Motor Kicker Bracket for $110 plus shipping. The Garelick and this other model are adjustable for our transom's angle. Steve
I found a used one on eBay for $50.00. A new one at West Marine is listed as: GARELICK 71037:01 315101 Only $159.99 USD. I just saw a competitor on eBay this evening listed as Outboard Motor Kicker Bracket for $110 plus shipping. The Garelick and this other model are adjustable for our transom's angle. Steve
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crazy dave
reinforcement and ebay
First, reinforce the transom inside the locker with something. Heed this advice as I probably know the boat all too well. As for ebay, be careful what you get. If there is something wrong with it, you have no warranty and what if it is brand x versus the real McCoy. I would recommend going to a Marine store for the outboard motor bracket and at least you will see what you are getting and if something is wrong, you can return it. I have been on EBay and I was stuck with junk. The motor bracket is not something to mess with over a few dollars.
First, reinforce the transom inside the locker with something. Heed this advice as I probably know the boat all too well. As for ebay, be careful what you get. If there is something wrong with it, you have no warranty and what if it is brand x versus the real McCoy. I would recommend going to a Marine store for the outboard motor bracket and at least you will see what you are getting and if something is wrong, you can return it. I have been on EBay and I was stuck with junk. The motor bracket is not something to mess with over a few dollars.
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seth
Starboard
Steve; I have a H22 and replace my mount last year. I also downsised the motor to a Merc 5HP fron 7.5 due to the number of cracks in the transom. I used and recommend starboard both insite and our over as large an area as you can. Also used large SS washers and lock nuts. Hope this helps..Seth
Steve; I have a H22 and replace my mount last year. I also downsised the motor to a Merc 5HP fron 7.5 due to the number of cracks in the transom. I used and recommend starboard both insite and our over as large an area as you can. Also used large SS washers and lock nuts. Hope this helps..Seth
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Steve Burke
port, or starboard side?
I keep seeing photos of H23's with the motor on the starboard side...were some made that way, or is it a conversion? Seems like a good fix for our annoying list to port. I'm not sure if there is a hollow space between the fuel storage area and the transom. Anyone done it???
I keep seeing photos of H23's with the motor on the starboard side...were some made that way, or is it a conversion? Seems like a good fix for our annoying list to port. I'm not sure if there is a hollow space between the fuel storage area and the transom. Anyone done it???
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Steve Ullrich
Seth: StarBoard vs. port...
Seth - I'm assuming you are talking about StarBoard marine grade polymer sheeting rather than starboard vs. port? I appreciate your advice. I looked for StarBoard on the web and found a link to the company that makes it. Sounds like a great product. Now, if I can find some around Minneapolis I'm set. I was going to use marine grade plywood inside the lazarette per Crazy Dave's advice but this new stuff looks like a good move.
Seth - I'm assuming you are talking about StarBoard marine grade polymer sheeting rather than starboard vs. port? I appreciate your advice. I looked for StarBoard on the web and found a link to the company that makes it. Sounds like a great product. Now, if I can find some around Minneapolis I'm set. I was going to use marine grade plywood inside the lazarette per Crazy Dave's advice but this new stuff looks like a good move.
StarBoard is available at BoatUS
Bought some 1/2 inch thick the other day for the exact same purpose. West Marine should have it too. On a related issue, if anyone has a source for 2-inch thick StarBoard or UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) plastic I'd appreciate it. I'm replacing the stock H23 fiberglass motor mount with a one of those retractable metal ones. Unfortunately, this one can't be adjusted for the reverse transom angle. To make the mount vertical, I need to a make a shim or wedge that's 2 inches thick. The one source I found for UHMW only sells it in 4 ft by 8 ft sheets. All I need is a piece about 4 inches by 9 inches. Apart from solid oak or teak, are there any other suggestions? Thanks in advance. Peter H23 "Raven"
Bought some 1/2 inch thick the other day for the exact same purpose. West Marine should have it too. On a related issue, if anyone has a source for 2-inch thick StarBoard or UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) plastic I'd appreciate it. I'm replacing the stock H23 fiberglass motor mount with a one of those retractable metal ones. Unfortunately, this one can't be adjusted for the reverse transom angle. To make the mount vertical, I need to a make a shim or wedge that's 2 inches thick. The one source I found for UHMW only sells it in 4 ft by 8 ft sheets. All I need is a piece about 4 inches by 9 inches. Apart from solid oak or teak, are there any other suggestions? Thanks in advance. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Steve Ullrich
Peter: Build it up?
Hi Peter, Could you build up four layers of the 1/2" material using Gorilla Glue between the layers? You might even consider glassing it? I'm glad the one I found is adjustable for the reverse transom. I was out to the boat today to get started on setting her up for the summer. I discovered that the transom had already been reinforced at some point in time when the OEM mount had been relocated towards the center line. I'm guessing that the previous owner was trying to get her to stop listing to port at the dock or bouy due to the motor's weight. At least it looks that way. A 1/2" piece of material has been glassed in place on the inside of the transom, unless that is the way it came from the factory?
Hi Peter, Could you build up four layers of the 1/2" material using Gorilla Glue between the layers? You might even consider glassing it? I'm glad the one I found is adjustable for the reverse transom. I was out to the boat today to get started on setting her up for the summer. I discovered that the transom had already been reinforced at some point in time when the OEM mount had been relocated towards the center line. I'm guessing that the previous owner was trying to get her to stop listing to port at the dock or bouy due to the motor's weight. At least it looks that way. A 1/2" piece of material has been glassed in place on the inside of the transom, unless that is the way it came from the factory?
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Mike Bacome,
reinforcing transom
I had some cracking around the bolts on my motor mount, I filled the holes with epoxy then drilled them again to seal against moisture getting in, then I used a piece of stainless and just glassed it in place and added several layers of glass with matting , it has held up well, Mike Bacome
I had some cracking around the bolts on my motor mount, I filled the holes with epoxy then drilled them again to seal against moisture getting in, then I used a piece of stainless and just glassed it in place and added several layers of glass with matting , it has held up well, Mike Bacome
Steve, what's Gorilla Glue?
I hadn't thought of laminating the StarBoard but that's not a bad idea. I didn't realize you could glue the stuff together. Thanks in advance. Peter H23 "Raven"
I hadn't thought of laminating the StarBoard but that's not a bad idea. I didn't realize you could glue the stuff together. Thanks in advance. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Crazy Dave
kPeter
Gorilla glue is another strong butt kickin glue which would be good for glueing wood together but if you do ever glue woods together, clamp them for better adhesion.
Gorilla glue is another strong butt kickin glue which would be good for glueing wood together but if you do ever glue woods together, clamp them for better adhesion.
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Brian Conneely
peter, sounds like too much work!
I went through the same considerations last season and was saved by the pre fabricated bracket that I've spoken about (turned a multiday job into an afternoon and sailed with new mount and motor the next) I'm curious to find out if you ever looked into the part that I recommended. (wish I had a pic to show,...still can't seem to convert to the digital medium.) Brian Conneely h23 kickin' back
I went through the same considerations last season and was saved by the pre fabricated bracket that I've spoken about (turned a multiday job into an afternoon and sailed with new mount and motor the next) I'm curious to find out if you ever looked into the part that I recommended. (wish I had a pic to show,...still can't seem to convert to the digital medium.) Brian Conneely h23 kickin' back
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Steve Ullrich
Gorilla Glue!
Gorilla glue is the only thing I have found that is water proof and hard as nails short of epoxy but Gorilla glue is easier to work with. It is a urethane glue, I think. It is also my first choice for jointing teak together. Teak is oily and regular glue won't bond. Wipe the joint with acetone and use Gorilla glue immediately and it will stick forever. I get it a Rockler's woodworker store.
Gorilla glue is the only thing I have found that is water proof and hard as nails short of epoxy but Gorilla glue is easier to work with. It is a urethane glue, I think. It is also my first choice for jointing teak together. Teak is oily and regular glue won't bond. Wipe the joint with acetone and use Gorilla glue immediately and it will stick forever. I get it a Rockler's woodworker store.
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