We recently purchased a 1986 Hunter 31 and are in the process of getting her back to a more seaworthy condition. We have several ongoing projects ranging from the replacement of the running rigging to getting the water system back in operation. Much of the original deck hardware was manufactured by Rutgerson and we are having great difficulty finding replacement hardware. Two questions I would like to get answered 1) Does anyone have any info on where to find a Rutgerson retailer? and 2) How easy or difficult is it to replace the original Rutgerson fairlead blocks with a different model? It appears that if we go with a different model, we will have to drill new holes in the mounting pad for the fairlead blocks. Is there any special way to do this? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
- Status
Refit
We are doing a refit of a similar vintage 28.5, and replacing most of the original gear with Harken. A lot of what was used on Hunters 20 years ago is no longer available, and what OEM stuff is available is not as good as some of the current brands. Remove the gear that doesn't work. Buy Harken replacements. Fill the old holes with MarineTex or other epoxy and let cure. Determine what fasteners you want or need to use for the new stuff (typically machine screws are recommended by the install instructions). You will need to drill new holes, and if there is a metal plate under the fiberglass, tap the plate for your fasteners. You can buy the drill bit and tap as a packaged kit in order to get the right size of both for the fasteners. Once tapped, apply appropriate bedding compound (do not use polyeurethane - 5200 - unless you never want to remove the stuff) to the fasteners and around holes to seal. Typically use polysulphide unless silicon is recommended (e.g. Spinlock clutches) or you are bedding plastics. Fasten gear and wipe off bedding compound. Back up fasteners with washers and acorn nuts to avoid things that can cut your head underneath. If there is no metal plate within the fiberglass, use a suitable backing plate - washers alone are usually not sufficient. If there is a metal plate within the fiberglass, don't try to redrill the old holes. You essentially want the plate to be your "nut" to secure the fastener. You can mount the new gear over the old, filled holes to cover the patches. Do not use 5200, 4200 or silicone to fill old holes - you will get leaks and mess up your deck or allow water below. Do not use screws with pointy ends in either your deck of spars. Use the proper stainless steel machine screws, and watch your gear for the right type. Some things require flat heads and some pan heads. They need to be able to take the loads. Go slow tapping the new holes for fittings. You don't want to strip the hole. Use generous cutting oil, and back the tap out from time to time to remove the cuttings. Also, I would get a drill guide so you can make sure your holes are straight. There is nothing worse than a fastener at an angle that does not fit flush within the deck gear. Best done with an electric drill or you will need a lot of batteries.
We are doing a refit of a similar vintage 28.5, and replacing most of the original gear with Harken. A lot of what was used on Hunters 20 years ago is no longer available, and what OEM stuff is available is not as good as some of the current brands. Remove the gear that doesn't work. Buy Harken replacements. Fill the old holes with MarineTex or other epoxy and let cure. Determine what fasteners you want or need to use for the new stuff (typically machine screws are recommended by the install instructions). You will need to drill new holes, and if there is a metal plate under the fiberglass, tap the plate for your fasteners. You can buy the drill bit and tap as a packaged kit in order to get the right size of both for the fasteners. Once tapped, apply appropriate bedding compound (do not use polyeurethane - 5200 - unless you never want to remove the stuff) to the fasteners and around holes to seal. Typically use polysulphide unless silicon is recommended (e.g. Spinlock clutches) or you are bedding plastics. Fasten gear and wipe off bedding compound. Back up fasteners with washers and acorn nuts to avoid things that can cut your head underneath. If there is no metal plate within the fiberglass, use a suitable backing plate - washers alone are usually not sufficient. If there is a metal plate within the fiberglass, don't try to redrill the old holes. You essentially want the plate to be your "nut" to secure the fastener. You can mount the new gear over the old, filled holes to cover the patches. Do not use 5200, 4200 or silicone to fill old holes - you will get leaks and mess up your deck or allow water below. Do not use screws with pointy ends in either your deck of spars. Use the proper stainless steel machine screws, and watch your gear for the right type. Some things require flat heads and some pan heads. They need to be able to take the loads. Go slow tapping the new holes for fittings. You don't want to strip the hole. Use generous cutting oil, and back the tap out from time to time to remove the cuttings. Also, I would get a drill guide so you can make sure your holes are straight. There is nothing worse than a fastener at an angle that does not fit flush within the deck gear. Best done with an electric drill or you will need a lot of batteries.
Taping into Aluminum
If the backing plates are aluminum, which they probably are, then one other detail that will help is to use cutting oil for aluminum otherwise the tap will gall up easily and possibly break.
If the backing plates are aluminum, which they probably are, then one other detail that will help is to use cutting oil for aluminum otherwise the tap will gall up easily and possibly break.
Newer is better
The original line organizers and rope clutches on the mid '80s Hunters have long been surpassed in quality and holding power by the newer equipment. You might try to find line organizers that have the same hole spacing or upgrade from a two sheav to a three sheav and add clutches for a reef line or additional halyard. The only down side might be re-drilling new holes for different screw spacings, but the previous posts have very adequately addresed those issues. The new rope clutches are much more friendly to your halyards.
The original line organizers and rope clutches on the mid '80s Hunters have long been surpassed in quality and holding power by the newer equipment. You might try to find line organizers that have the same hole spacing or upgrade from a two sheav to a three sheav and add clutches for a reef line or additional halyard. The only down side might be re-drilling new holes for different screw spacings, but the previous posts have very adequately addresed those issues. The new rope clutches are much more friendly to your halyards.
Hardware
I have been very satisfied with Garhauer products. VERY reasonabley priced, beautiful stuff, excellent to deal with. I had some custom blocks made for my main sheet and extreamly satisfied. OEM equipment on Catalinas
I have been very satisfied with Garhauer products. VERY reasonabley priced, beautiful stuff, excellent to deal with. I had some custom blocks made for my main sheet and extreamly satisfied. OEM equipment on Catalinas
New hardware
I tend to watch what the racing boats at our marina and elsewhere are using in the hardware department. Those guys know what they are doing and using, and it can't hurt to copy what they do. You do need to watch what you buy so you can be sure it can handle the loads. You really don't want a block exploding or line parting while your wife or child is trimming. Sometimes a little extra investment is worth it in the long run. For example, the rig shop I use encouraged me to buy a Harken chromed halyard winch even though it was more expensive than the Lewmar (but less than Anderson) because it would hold up longer and perform better.
I tend to watch what the racing boats at our marina and elsewhere are using in the hardware department. Those guys know what they are doing and using, and it can't hurt to copy what they do. You do need to watch what you buy so you can be sure it can handle the loads. You really don't want a block exploding or line parting while your wife or child is trimming. Sometimes a little extra investment is worth it in the long run. For example, the rig shop I use encouraged me to buy a Harken chromed halyard winch even though it was more expensive than the Lewmar (but less than Anderson) because it would hold up longer and perform better.
- Status