Replacement cheek blocks H 31
- Thread starter jmce1587
- Start date
Jerry,
The original grey colored Lewmar cheek blocks are rebuildable. Take one off and you can see the pin through the center looks about 1/4" in diametr. Its really not. The two ends are stamped from a smaller pin so it won't fall out. Start with an 1/8" drill on the top and go down only about an 1/8". Increase the drill size progressively so you don't enlarge the hole in the cast body and the peined head will pop off. Then push the rest out through the bottom. After you get a new sheave just insert a new clevis pin from the bottom and remount. I think the clevis pin needed is 3/16" x 1 1/4".
Allan
Jerry
Contact Garhauer marine. The will custom drill you a new one.
Contact Garhauer marine. The will custom drill you a new one.
I currently find myself in your place and need to replace either the sheaves or the blocks on my 84 H31. What solution did you go with?
I used the replacement cheek block from catalina direct. If you tell them it's for a hunter sailboat they will tell you there is no refund if you ordered wrong part But it fit perfect
Chip. Check Alan’s post above about “peening” out the pin and replacing with a clevis pin. The PO for my boat removed the existing pin and has a bolt/nut (see pic) . I haven't had to take it apart so not sure what type of head he used for the bolt or it its cut off. If you need a replacement sheave then check out WM as Mike suggested or contact Styx N Rigging in Kemah Texas (local rigging shop) and they can make one for you. They made sheaves for my turning blocks on deck. Let me know if you need any assistance on replacement sheave from local rigger.
Here is an entry about this from my maintenance log. I’ll post some pictures later.
Attachments
So I fixed the starboard block.
The sheave was very bad.
Replaced it with a Schaefer.
Had to drill it to 1/2" to reuse the bronze sleeve bearing
Used a 1/4" 20 stainless bolt and aircraft nut as the shaft . Had to grind the bolt head thinner to clear the bottom of the block.
The sheave was very bad.
Replaced it with a Schaefer.
Had to drill it to 1/2" to reuse the bronze sleeve bearing
Used a 1/4" 20 stainless bolt and aircraft nut as the shaft . Had to grind the bolt head thinner to clear the bottom of the block.
Just did the sheave replacement as described above. Schaefer 62-019. My replacement went well, with a couple of notes.
1. Use a centerpunch to mark the drilling start of the peened bolt. I had one 30 feet away and didn't use it. Good thing that side of the block is against the deck.
2. If I were doing this again I'd use a 13mm drill bit vice a 1/2" in the new sheave. I had to walk the 1/2" around the new sheave to get the OEM bushing back in there. A digital caliper read .502 for the bushing.
1. Use a centerpunch to mark the drilling start of the peened bolt. I had one 30 feet away and didn't use it. Good thing that side of the block is against the deck.
2. If I were doing this again I'd use a 13mm drill bit vice a 1/2" in the new sheave. I had to walk the 1/2" around the new sheave to get the OEM bushing back in there. A digital caliper read .502 for the bushing.