I own a 1978 Hunter 30 (Hull # HUN50806M78B-30). I recently had a bad day on Biscayne Bay and lost a blade from my propeller and broke the brace that holds the cutlass bearing. My repair person says that he can replace the brace without me having to pull the boat if I can find the correct replacement part. The shaft is 1”. I already have a replacement propeller but I will need to get a replacement for the cutlass bearing for the new brace. Any information you can provide me will be much appreciated.
- Status
Give Hunter a call
They should be either tell you where or sell you the shaft strut and/or cutlass bearing. http://www.huntermarine.com
They should be either tell you where or sell you the shaft strut and/or cutlass bearing. http://www.huntermarine.com
Would like to know
I am assuming that your talking about the strut. Hunter should be able to provide the info. for it, or the replacement part. I am having some doubts about replacing it in the water. If you have a pretty big bilge pump, and he is fast, maybe. But when you unbolt that strut, there are going to be four, 3/8 or bigger open holes in the bottom of the boat. A hell of a lot of water can come in, in a very short time. Maybe he can do it with a helper holding the bolt heads and not taking the bolts out of the hull. Don't know how they are put in there. Be sure and let us know how this turns out.
I am assuming that your talking about the strut. Hunter should be able to provide the info. for it, or the replacement part. I am having some doubts about replacing it in the water. If you have a pretty big bilge pump, and he is fast, maybe. But when you unbolt that strut, there are going to be four, 3/8 or bigger open holes in the bottom of the boat. A hell of a lot of water can come in, in a very short time. Maybe he can do it with a helper holding the bolt heads and not taking the bolts out of the hull. Don't know how they are put in there. Be sure and let us know how this turns out.
Dahmer Marine
Try Dahmermarine.com. They have a strut that looks like an exact replacement for a Hunter 30.
Try Dahmermarine.com. They have a strut that looks like an exact replacement for a Hunter 30.
replace H-30 strut in water
3 years ago after damage to the strut and prop I was successful in the replacement while in the water at my dock. Although a new strut was available from Dalmer I had my prop shop straighten the bent strut, replace the Cutlass bearing, and true the prop in his shop. With the help of my partner working from inside the boat, he squirted caulk down through each mounting hole while I inserted a bolt -- one at a time -- from the outside under water using just mask and snorkle. The shaft pretty much supports the strut during the process. Water gushing in was not a problem since we did one bolt at a time and the hole diameter is not large. It is, however, very messy in the water because long strands of excess caulk came off in the water. My inside buddy overdid it a bit with the caulk gun. At the time I worried that the shaft/strut alighment would be off, but it did not seem to be problem because there has been no vibration or wear problem. Also believe it or not there was no water leak later around the strut mounting bolts. Although it all worked and was successful, I do not advise this method. Henry
3 years ago after damage to the strut and prop I was successful in the replacement while in the water at my dock. Although a new strut was available from Dalmer I had my prop shop straighten the bent strut, replace the Cutlass bearing, and true the prop in his shop. With the help of my partner working from inside the boat, he squirted caulk down through each mounting hole while I inserted a bolt -- one at a time -- from the outside under water using just mask and snorkle. The shaft pretty much supports the strut during the process. Water gushing in was not a problem since we did one bolt at a time and the hole diameter is not large. It is, however, very messy in the water because long strands of excess caulk came off in the water. My inside buddy overdid it a bit with the caulk gun. At the time I worried that the shaft/strut alighment would be off, but it did not seem to be problem because there has been no vibration or wear problem. Also believe it or not there was no water leak later around the strut mounting bolts. Although it all worked and was successful, I do not advise this method. Henry
Don't do it!
Replace a strut in the water? Possible but I would lift the boat out. In fact I am wondering if divers would not be more costly than a weekend on the hard? And do you trust a sealant between the new strut and hull that was installed in the water? The strut should say "Dahmer" right on the side and there should be a part number there as "rad" suggested. There has to be a diver holding a very large screwdriver from underneath while someone in the boat removes the nuts and washers. Then you have to hope the strut is not "glued" to the hull with something like 5200. Next you have to plug those holes while you get the new strut slid on the shaft and into place. The prop obviously has to be removed first so that you can slide the strut part off and the new one on. And you will want a new cutlass bearing in that new strut. As for diver costs I had to have a prop replaced in the Erie Canal. They gave me a deal they said. Two divers, less than 30 minutes, equals $270.
P.S. I wrote this before Henry posted his. Now that I see his reply I have another recommendation. Hire Henry!
Replace a strut in the water? Possible but I would lift the boat out. In fact I am wondering if divers would not be more costly than a weekend on the hard? And do you trust a sealant between the new strut and hull that was installed in the water? The strut should say "Dahmer" right on the side and there should be a part number there as "rad" suggested. There has to be a diver holding a very large screwdriver from underneath while someone in the boat removes the nuts and washers. Then you have to hope the strut is not "glued" to the hull with something like 5200. Next you have to plug those holes while you get the new strut slid on the shaft and into place. The prop obviously has to be removed first so that you can slide the strut part off and the new one on. And you will want a new cutlass bearing in that new strut. As for diver costs I had to have a prop replaced in the Erie Canal. They gave me a deal they said. Two divers, less than 30 minutes, equals $270.
P.S. I wrote this before Henry posted his. Now that I see his reply I have another recommendation. Hire Henry! 
H-30 strut
Ed -- I don't think that I would try it again. Sometimes it is a challenge to see if you can do it. We did it since the only downside was the extra work and if it was unsuccessful we would have to haul the boat anyway. I think the bolts were 5/16" flat head inserted from the bottom. Before starting we plugged the holes on the inside with a pieces of play dough so that the bolt inserted from the bottom would push out the plug -- did each bolt one at a time. Also buttered the strut's attaching surface before submersion with putty. BUT it was a mess and we were lucky that it worked. It also helps that the water is warm and clear in Florida. I climbed out of the water with that gooey caulk all through my hair and all over me. I have a refitted H-33(1980) now and so far have not bent my strut. The boats are almost the same although in some ways the H-30 sailed a bit better. Good luck in your new location. Henry
Ed -- I don't think that I would try it again. Sometimes it is a challenge to see if you can do it. We did it since the only downside was the extra work and if it was unsuccessful we would have to haul the boat anyway. I think the bolts were 5/16" flat head inserted from the bottom. Before starting we plugged the holes on the inside with a pieces of play dough so that the bolt inserted from the bottom would push out the plug -- did each bolt one at a time. Also buttered the strut's attaching surface before submersion with putty. BUT it was a mess and we were lucky that it worked. It also helps that the water is warm and clear in Florida. I climbed out of the water with that gooey caulk all through my hair and all over me. I have a refitted H-33(1980) now and so far have not bent my strut. The boats are almost the same although in some ways the H-30 sailed a bit better. Good luck in your new location. Henry
Once again I'm confused
Henry, I am not doubting that you did this, and I am not questioning it. I just am not sure I understand the process. No question it is possible. But from what you wrote I don't understand exactly how you managed. You said that you did one screw at a time, and the strut pretty much supported the shaft during the process. If the strut is supporting the shaft, how to you get one screw out, caulk the hole and stick a bolt in it. Did you stick a bolt in from the inside. This makes more sense, and maybe I am just mis reading your post. If you put the bolts back in from under the boat, you would have to have all four of them removed at the same time to move the strut. I would also like to interject that someone needs to measure the distance between the end of the shaft and the rudder. On my S2, I am pretty sure there isn't enough clearance between the end of the shaft and the rudder to slide the strut off. Strut is in the neighborhood of 6" long, and there is only three or four inches between the prop and the rudder.
Henry, I am not doubting that you did this, and I am not questioning it. I just am not sure I understand the process. No question it is possible. But from what you wrote I don't understand exactly how you managed. You said that you did one screw at a time, and the strut pretty much supported the shaft during the process. If the strut is supporting the shaft, how to you get one screw out, caulk the hole and stick a bolt in it. Did you stick a bolt in from the inside. This makes more sense, and maybe I am just mis reading your post. If you put the bolts back in from under the boat, you would have to have all four of them removed at the same time to move the strut. I would also like to interject that someone needs to measure the distance between the end of the shaft and the rudder. On my S2, I am pretty sure there isn't enough clearance between the end of the shaft and the rudder to slide the strut off. Strut is in the neighborhood of 6" long, and there is only three or four inches between the prop and the rudder.
Two things.
One is that if the prop will come off then the strut is a non-issue. The bearing part of the strut should be about four inches. Secondly with the strut off there is enough play in the shaft that you can move it to one side or the other of the rudder. At least that is what I see on most Hunters.
One is that if the prop will come off then the strut is a non-issue. The bearing part of the strut should be about four inches. Secondly with the strut off there is enough play in the shaft that you can move it to one side or the other of the rudder. At least that is what I see on most Hunters.
I can buy that
Ed, I can go with that. Makes sense to me. Didn't think about being able to move the shaft to the side a little bit. Sometimes my thought process is a little slow.
Ed, I can go with that. Makes sense to me. Didn't think about being able to move the shaft to the side a little bit. Sometimes my thought process is a little slow.
- Status