replaceing Prop shaft raw water lub fitting

[Bruce Schwartz]

Need help in trying to fix my 393 prop shaft raw water lube fitting. This is the fitting that leads into the sleeve and runs from the through hole to lube the shaft. The fitting broke off and needs to be replaced. Is it threaded into the fiberglass or is there a female fitting epoxied on under the glass? Can’t seem th find any details?
TX

 

[Gunni]

Hi Bruce;
It's your cutless bearing and the water comes from a thru-hull. The fix depends on where the system broke. There is in fact an outer hull fitting that threads to the inner fitting, and then a ball valve fitting plus hose barb. But if you need to replace the thru hull you'll likely need a haul. Not a complicated fix, but you want it right, because that fitting can put A LOT of water into your boat in a hurry. Good luck.

 

[Bruce Schwartz]

Gunni
Thanks for the reply. Fortunately this is not a through hole issue. The fitting that was corroded and broke off is on the prop shaft liner ( i know there’s a term for this?) and adds water to the shaft for lubrication. seems to have been epoxied in but i don't know if i need to drill out or if there is a fitting that i need to find? let me know ig anyone has any ideas?

 

[Paul Mermelstein]

Re: replacing Prop shaft raw water lub fitting

I have a 393 with the same setup. This is a common problem where the hose attaches to the prop shaft tube with a little brass hose barb; it is not bronze, and it corrodes easily. Many folks have cited this problem.

The hose barb is threaded into the shaft tube. It does not go in far and there is very little metal holding it in. Remove the hose and then use a screw extractor to very gently unscrew the piece of the hose barb that remains in the hole. Then replace the hose barb and reattach the hose. Remember that the brass hose barb is soft, and the thin walled prop shaft tube is not very robust either. Be gentle and careful.

The brass hose barbs cost about a buck and should be replaced as part of preventive maintenance every two years during regular haul outs.

 

[Philip_Oceanis 361]

As Paul mentioned it's an easy job to replace that hose barb (provided it's not corroded) but probably cannot be done while in the water. The moment you will remove the hose sea water will start coming into the boat from the end of the shaft. I don't know how much though. Probably first remove that hose very carefully and find out.

 

[Gunni]

Re: replacing Prop shaft raw water lub fitting

Excellent fix description. Thanks for identifying this not so obvious maintenance item. Wouldn't have suspected a brass part here.

 

[Bruce Schwartz]

Thanks for the info. Since this broke off i have not seen any water coming from the hole? hope i do not find some when removing the leftover barb ( don't want to have to re- haul). Where can i get a replacement? when i replace do i need to re-epoxy it in or will it thread in or both ( looks like it was well epoxied now - could be difficult to get the old piece out)?

 

[Bruce Schwartz]

Thanks for the info. Since this broke off i have not seen any water coming from the hole? hope i do not find some when removing the leftover barb ( don't want to have to re- haul). Where can i get a replacement? when i replace do i need to re-epoxy it in or will it thread in or both ( looks like it was well epoxied now - could be difficult to get the old piece out)?

 

[gord331victoria]

Hi Guys, I just purchased this kit from bene, the fitting is bras, but much thicker than a standard nipple. It includes the a special epoxy, and complete instructions. The area must be dry, so I will do it on my next haul out.

We offer a kit for replacing the nipple, it is the same as the original.

Part : 460646 Descrip.: STERN TUBE FITTING REPAIR KIT, in stock, $34.93