I just replaced both the throttle and gearshift control cables on my '89 Hunter 28 (with 2GM20F). It was alot easier than I expected. Here's some thoughts and observations. 1. Do both cables at same time. It took three hours for two people, one of whom (me)was not too mechanically-inclined. 2. Remove the wheel and pedestal. This is not difficult or onerous--and by removing the pedestal, you can lay it down on the cockpit which really made it easier to work inside the pedestal. 3. On our Edson pedestal, there is one BIG step which was omitted from the procedure on the EDSON web site. Inside the bottom of the pedestal was a 6-inch long round metal sleeve which was jammed partway into the pedestal tube. This sleeve had the effect of tightly locking the control cables and the power lines (to my autopilot), since they were run between the pedestal tube and this sleeve. Consequently, I could not pull the control cables out of the top of the pedestal to get access to the control cables bracket, as Edson recommends. So, we took out this sleeve, and pulled the control cables out of the BOTTOM of the pedestal, which worked very well. Also, this method avoids having to work in the top of the pedestal around the chain and chain shaft. There's very little room at the top of ours. 4. When you disconnect your existing cables at the engine mount and transmission lever, measure the distance from the cable tip to the small nut--then, when installing the new cables on the engine housing, screw them in using the same distances, and you'll hardly need to make any adjustments on the engine to get your original settings back. 5. After getting done, since you've already removed the cockpit floor panel aft of the wheeel, you can easily adjust the cable tension on the rudder post wheel, before closing it all up. Ours was pretty loose to start. All in all, this job was not too difficult. I'm no expert for sure; but if anybody has questions I may be able to help out.