Replace windows with smoked plexi-glass

[bman88]

I have a 1984 Hunter 34 with four windows that leak. I've taken them out cleaned and resealed them, but they eventually continue to leak.

My idea is to replace them with 1/4" to 3/8" smoked plexiglass. I would have the PG cut about 1" larger than the size of the winow openings, have identical panes both inside and outside the cabin, then seal/adhere them in place.

My question is will this idea work?

 

[Neil McDonald]

Leaking Ports

I have a 1984 Hunter 34 with four windows that leak. I've taken them out cleaned and resealed them, but they eventually continue to leak.

My idea is to replace them with 1/4" to 3/8" smoked plexiglass. I would have the PG cut about 1" larger than the size of the winow openings, have identical panes both inside and outside the cabin, then seal/adhere them in place.

My question is will this idea work?

Its not clear what your existing windows are. Are they Beckson or similar style opening ports? If so where are they leaking? ? If its from around the frame, then I would not give up trying to seal them. Try this.

Remove the port and make sure that there is a good 1/4 - 3/8" space all around the barrel of the port. If necessary open up the hole in the boat until you get this space. Then use epoxy with a filler to seal all around the edges of this hole. This prevents water from seeping into the core of the hull and also provides a solid platform to hold sealant between the port barrel and the hull. Then place the port barrel back in the hole, using temporary spacers to ensure that it is centered, and there is an even gap all around. Then use a silicone sealant to completely fill the gap all around the port.

Many people seem to think that what is known as the trim ring, installed around the outside of the port, is there to stop water entering. Wrong! It is just for aesthetics. Effective sealing can only happen between the barrel of the port and the hull - and this only works if the installer has left an adequate space all around..... which often does not happen. Let us know how you make out.

 

[kloudie1]

Talking the 4 fixed ports ?? These can be done with butyl tape and screws as you are planning. Remember to drill the holes oversized because the glass will move when the boat torques ..and don't tighten them down very much.. ya have to have about 1/8" of sealant remaining between teh glass and the fiberglass.. On the older 34’s there are some aftermarket ports available for the fixed ports too but they are pretty expensive. Do a search on the site and you’ll find some posts on this one.. and some hints as to how to mount the glass as you’ve described too.. Good Luck with it..

 

[Steve Dion]

If you want to do it once and do it correctly, check these guys out.

http://bomon.com/index.htm

 

[Scott]

Look in the yellow pages for local plastic places. I had 1/4" lexan cut to fit my fixed ports for $25 each. Re-think having panes both inside and ouside. Most likely it will create condensation, heat buildup, etc., resulting in deflection, leakage or whatever.

 

[Dan Johnson]

About to undertake the same project...

as it is a common problem with older boats, not just the H34's. However, with your plan you will need to fill and seal the space around the rim of the window openings or as Scott pointed out, you will just have the inner surfaces fog up with the moisture migration. Due to hull flexing, this may not be a long-term solution.

As your boat is an '84, it probably has the plastic port frames. See if you can find the metal ones as used initially on the '83 boats (like mine)--you may have better luck getting the panes to seal to them.