Recently bought a Hunter 26, water ballast. The up haul line on the swing keel is older and I think I feel some strands breaking when I retract the keel. How do I replace the up haul line? Any advice would be appreciated.:confused
Replace up haul on swing keel
- Thread starter Knot Flying
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As far as I know you have to lift the boat up on stands and drop the center board. Tie a new line to the old one and draw it up to the cabin top, then tie it off to the center board and replace the center board being careful to seal the bolts removed when the center board was removed.
Good luck, Bob
Good luck, Bob
As the foremost person on this boat, you have been given good advice but a few tidbits.
Use 7/16 line, never 1/2 or you will kick yourself. While in the lift, it will be a little hard to get out, so wiggle the centerboard back and forth while pulling down. Make sure you do not force the big bolt on when reinserting it. Use a little grease on the threads. Like the advice said, use a tracer line as well.
Since you are inexperienced, I do not suggest those who say lift the boat yourself or you could get hurt so spend a few bucks and use a hoist like at a boat yard.
crazy dave condon
Use 7/16 line, never 1/2 or you will kick yourself. While in the lift, it will be a little hard to get out, so wiggle the centerboard back and forth while pulling down. Make sure you do not force the big bolt on when reinserting it. Use a little grease on the threads. Like the advice said, use a tracer line as well.
Since you are inexperienced, I do not suggest those who say lift the boat yourself or you could get hurt so spend a few bucks and use a hoist like at a boat yard.
crazy dave condon
Thanks Dave. Great advice. I also need to replace the up haul line on the rudder. Any tricks to that? Does not seem as difficult as the keel line replacement.
All good advice Dave, as usual.....
I remember one trick. When the center board is being put back into position in the trunk a person has to be inside the boat to thread a large bolt into the s/s U bracket that retains the board in position. It will be very difficult to position the board, bracket and bolt in alignment to thread the bolt back in.
The solution is to use a piece of threaded rod about 18" long into the bracket before starting to put the board back in the trunk. Then offer the board up into the trunk, positioning the threaded rod through the hole first. The person inside can use the threaded rod to get the bracket into the right position.
When it is all lined up remove the threaded rod from inside the boat, apply lots of sealant and thread the retaining bolt into the bracket.
If you can have the yard lift the boat at the end of the day and you can have the evening to work through this, otherwise it can be a bit stressful with the clock running.
If the boat has been wet slipped in salt water the bracket or axle pin may need replacement, so going straight to stands may be easier and cheaper.
As Dave said it may be hard to get the board out, there may be some sealant around the bracket up inside the trunk (also this needs to be cleaned up before it is reassembled). So it may take some wiggling to get the board out. Using the threaded rod on the inside of the boat and taping it with a rubber mallet would help.
The uphaul for the rudder, will only take a few minutes, there should be a block inside the rudder post to give 2:1 advantage.
Bob
I remember one trick. When the center board is being put back into position in the trunk a person has to be inside the boat to thread a large bolt into the s/s U bracket that retains the board in position. It will be very difficult to position the board, bracket and bolt in alignment to thread the bolt back in.
The solution is to use a piece of threaded rod about 18" long into the bracket before starting to put the board back in the trunk. Then offer the board up into the trunk, positioning the threaded rod through the hole first. The person inside can use the threaded rod to get the bracket into the right position.
When it is all lined up remove the threaded rod from inside the boat, apply lots of sealant and thread the retaining bolt into the bracket.
If you can have the yard lift the boat at the end of the day and you can have the evening to work through this, otherwise it can be a bit stressful with the clock running.
If the boat has been wet slipped in salt water the bracket or axle pin may need replacement, so going straight to stands may be easier and cheaper.
As Dave said it may be hard to get the board out, there may be some sealant around the bracket up inside the trunk (also this needs to be cleaned up before it is reassembled). So it may take some wiggling to get the board out. Using the threaded rod on the inside of the boat and taping it with a rubber mallet would help.
The uphaul for the rudder, will only take a few minutes, there should be a block inside the rudder post to give 2:1 advantage.
Bob
Did you see this one ?
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...id=267&cat_id=20&aid=6224&page=article&mn=260
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...id=267&cat_id=20&aid=6224&page=article&mn=260
There is a turning block inside the rudder post housing that gives you a 2 to one purchase with the other line tied to a becket that goes to the rudder. A little tricky to do but make a note how the bottom line exits behind the bolt at the bottom of the pipe and how the lines exit the top and go over another so they will not be cut by the edge of the pipe when exiting at both ends. Match up the line but me thinks was a 3/8 inch line
crazy dave condon
crazy dave condon
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