I just bought a 1983 Hunter 34. The rig seems OK and some of it looks like it was replaced within the last 10 years or so. However, other rigging looks like it's OEM. The boat has about 500 hrs on the diesel and I suspect it has been sailed very little over the years. Query - should I spend $4k on having the rigging done or should I enjoy it for the season and get to it when I can. My thought is to let it ride since it's a B&R rig and has so much rigging, that even if a shroud were to fail, I suspect the damage would not be immediately catastrophic to the mast and I could fall off. Everyone at the marine store is adamant about replacing the rigging. Any thoughts?
Replace the rigging?
- Thread starter Endurance2010
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Um, you're only partially right.
If the headstay parts your rig is coming down. Guaranteed.
Your rig has no forward lowers.
I'd at least consider replacing the headstay.
If the headstay parts your rig is coming down. Guaranteed.
Your rig has no forward lowers.
I'd at least consider replacing the headstay.
Did your boat survey identify the standing rigging as issue? For safety reasons suggest having the standing rigging inspected by “several” rigging specialists and get quotes as a minimum. I was fortunate that the prior owner replaced the standing rigging 2 years ago (April 2006). I am now planning to replace my running rigging by Scott Easom Rigging in Brickyard Cove, Point Richmond since he can do it at a lower cost than I could on myself.
We were told not to sail our boat until the rigging was replaced, and I'm glade we didn't. It looked bad on deck, but on top was just as bad, some strands were parted mid-way up... I wouldn't be able to enjoy a season of sailing if I was worried a gust might be the end of it. ...and if the headstay is what fails, guess where the mast goes (assuming the headsail rips as well)??
My though are since you said it looks OK sail it this year and replace in the near future. Remember all this is based YOUR statements and no one but you has actually looked the rig. You did not mention any corrosion , separating or fraying of the rigging. If you need a second opinion get a local rigger to inspect and or as someone else suggested what did you survey find ? (assuming you had one) The marine store clearly has a biased opinion as they want to sell you the new rigging.The original rigging is nearing its useful life and should be replaced in the near future but could still have several years of like if it does not show any issues. My opinion is to inspect very carefully and see exactly what you have then make a decision but make replacing the rigging a priority in the next off season.
p.s. Replacing the rigging is a job most owners can do as most rigging shops will make it up for you and you do the removal and reinstall. If some one really wanted to they could buy the tools and do it themselves also Not that difficult a job and will save you lots of money !
p.s. Replacing the rigging is a job most owners can do as most rigging shops will make it up for you and you do the removal and reinstall. If some one really wanted to they could buy the tools and do it themselves also Not that difficult a job and will save you lots of money !
Endurance...
have a rigger go up the mast to check the mast itself and all the fittings and swages for cracks and crevis corrosion. Have him run a rag down each shroud and stay to find any "fish-hooks"--broken strands. Have him check tensions and that all cotter pins are in-place on all turnbuckles and clevis pins. Have him look for any gauling at the toggles' clevis pins and turnbuckles.
If you have a Hyde roller furler (common on the early H34's), understand that the foil IS the headstay. Have the rigger check the top and bottom bearing races to ensure that they turn freely. If they "cog" (hang up), it's time to replace them. Have him check the connection points to be sure they are still solid.
With a clean bill-of-health you could probably get this season under your belt. If not, get the rigging done by a professional. Swaging connections needs to be done in high quality dies to guarentee a solid make-up. "Bananas" are common with poor equipment--it eats wire and connections which ='s big bucks.
have a rigger go up the mast to check the mast itself and all the fittings and swages for cracks and crevis corrosion. Have him run a rag down each shroud and stay to find any "fish-hooks"--broken strands. Have him check tensions and that all cotter pins are in-place on all turnbuckles and clevis pins. Have him look for any gauling at the toggles' clevis pins and turnbuckles.
If you have a Hyde roller furler (common on the early H34's), understand that the foil IS the headstay. Have the rigger check the top and bottom bearing races to ensure that they turn freely. If they "cog" (hang up), it's time to replace them. Have him check the connection points to be sure they are still solid.
With a clean bill-of-health you could probably get this season under your belt. If not, get the rigging done by a professional. Swaging connections needs to be done in high quality dies to guarentee a solid make-up. "Bananas" are common with poor equipment--it eats wire and connections which ='s big bucks.
Also, what are you doing with the boat? If you are weekending that's one thing. Look over all of it and if you don't see anything fraying or cracking you'll probably be okay for a while. If you are blue water sailing then yes, I'm sure you'd want to invest in new rigging for safety and piece of mind.
Endurance...
if you do elect to replace the standing rigging, I attempted to attach a Word doc of the various rigging dimensions taken off a forum posting but couldn't get it translated into an acceptable file so here they are below:
Hunter 34 Standing Rigging
1 Headstay 9/32” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 48’4”
1 Backstay Upper 9/32” 1x19 Wire Jaw to Marine Eye, Eye to Eye 36’6.5”
2 Lower Backstay Legs 1/4” 1x19 Wire Jaw to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 13’11.5”
2 Upper Upper Legs 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Marine Eye, Eye to Eye 12’6”
2 Upper Lower Legs 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 33’6”
2 Intermediate Upper Leg 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Marine Eye, Eye to Eye 14’10.5”
2 Intermediate Lower Leg 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 18’2”
2 Lower Shrouds 9/32” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 17’6”
2 Intermediate Diamond Shrouds 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, w/U removed Eye to Eye 15’7-7/8”
2 Lower Diamond Shrouds 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, w/U removed Eye to Eye 16’5”
if you do elect to replace the standing rigging, I attempted to attach a Word doc of the various rigging dimensions taken off a forum posting but couldn't get it translated into an acceptable file so here they are below:
Hunter 34 Standing Rigging
1 Headstay 9/32” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 48’4”
1 Backstay Upper 9/32” 1x19 Wire Jaw to Marine Eye, Eye to Eye 36’6.5”
2 Lower Backstay Legs 1/4” 1x19 Wire Jaw to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 13’11.5”
2 Upper Upper Legs 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Marine Eye, Eye to Eye 12’6”
2 Upper Lower Legs 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 33’6”
2 Intermediate Upper Leg 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Marine Eye, Eye to Eye 14’10.5”
2 Intermediate Lower Leg 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 18’2”
2 Lower Shrouds 9/32” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, Eye to Eye 17’6”
2 Intermediate Diamond Shrouds 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, w/U removed Eye to Eye 15’7-7/8”
2 Lower Diamond Shrouds 1/4” 1x19 Wire Marine Eye to Turnbuckle, w/U removed Eye to Eye 16’5”
Rigging
I would replace your rigging I did mine. As most have sait in this forum, the mast is coming down in a strong breeze.
Go to American Rigging in Florida. They are very reasonable in their price. I got quotes from the Kemah area from 2K & 1.1K, but if you calculate all the parts bought from West Marine you end up with about $600 plus shipping and labor no more than $750 tops.
Talk to Rob Feidriech, tell him Steve from Houston sent you....I get nothing from Rob in terms of $$ compensation. Just wanted to share my information with the forum.
Steve
I would replace your rigging I did mine. As most have sait in this forum, the mast is coming down in a strong breeze.
Go to American Rigging in Florida. They are very reasonable in their price. I got quotes from the Kemah area from 2K & 1.1K, but if you calculate all the parts bought from West Marine you end up with about $600 plus shipping and labor no more than $750 tops.
Talk to Rob Feidriech, tell him Steve from Houston sent you....I get nothing from Rob in terms of $$ compensation. Just wanted to share my information with the forum.
Steve
Also look at Seco South. They likely did the rigging for Hunter when your boat was built.
http://www.secosouth.com/
http://www.secosouth.com/
I just replaced all my rigging on my 84 hunter. It also is a B&R rigging. My spreader tips was in bad shape too. 125 dollars each and 60 to have them welded on.
JSI made up my rigging and did a great job. it cost 1700 for the rigging. I bought the tips from Rig-Rite (*******s) the only place I could find them. I did all the work myself. While I had the mast off I painted it. That was a big job too.
I did have a rigger come out and check the tunning.
If you have any questions please ask. I spent a month working on it.
JSI made up my rigging and did a great job. it cost 1700 for the rigging. I bought the tips from Rig-Rite (*******s) the only place I could find them. I did all the work myself. While I had the mast off I painted it. That was a big job too.
I did have a rigger come out and check the tunning.
If you have any questions please ask. I spent a month working on it.
I am with Paul F. Seco South has the measurements and they had extremely good prices when I checked about 3 years ago.
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