My 15-yr old after market shaft seal is leaking unacceptably. I'm having the boat pulled for bottom painting this fall and want to replace this (have it replaced) at the same time. Does anyone have recommendations for or against a particular type? Also, if you do have a recommendation can you tell me what measurements I'll need to order the correct model? Or is this something I can count on a boat yard being able to obtain properly? Thanks. Larry.
Replace Shaft Seal
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Have you tried retensoining the bellows?
You need to move the stainless split ring on the prop shaft closer to the seal on the bellows. And remember to re-burp it
You need to move the stainless split ring on the prop shaft closer to the seal on the bellows. And remember to re-burp it
How difficult is retensioning the bellows?
I'm having the same problem. I just purchased my 28.5 last Friday and I found that I'm getting LOTS of water running through the shaft seal. Can you provide specific instructions on adjusting the bellows? Larry - I'm in slip D28 at Manatee Cove. Rob
I'm having the same problem. I just purchased my 28.5 last Friday and I found that I'm getting LOTS of water running through the shaft seal. Can you provide specific instructions on adjusting the bellows? Larry - I'm in slip D28 at Manatee Cove. Rob
Moving the Ring
Hi, Rob, I'm in D26. I know your boat but didn't realize it'd been sold. Landsend, I did try to move my ring (actually two of them) but am completely unable to get them to budge and am reluctant to apply excessive force to them. After 15 years (my boat's previous owner passed on meticulous records) I figure I'll just replace it since the boat is being pulled anyway.
Hi, Rob, I'm in D26. I know your boat but didn't realize it'd been sold. Landsend, I did try to move my ring (actually two of them) but am completely unable to get them to budge and am reluctant to apply excessive force to them. After 15 years (my boat's previous owner passed on meticulous records) I figure I'll just replace it since the boat is being pulled anyway.
H28.5 Gland
If you have the OEM white nylon packing gland, as I do, it may be adjusted (tightened) by removing the locking cotter pin and turning the large nut nearest the coupling a bit clockwise and then replacing the cotter pin to lock the nut. If you are able to tighten it, that may reduce the leak to an acceptable level and fix your problem. If your original packing material, however (could it really be 15 yrs old???) is in need of replacement, that is a job best done with the boat on the hard. Once you remove the lock nut from the gland, you'll find a compression washer pressed against the packing material, and this must be removed. Some have done this by cutting it with a small Exacto knife and prying it out; others have loosened the hose clamps on the rubber gland and slid the whole unit forward, then back, thus exposing the washer. Yet others have gotten the washer out using picks. At that point, some sort of pick or corkscrew can be used to remove the old packing material and it must be removed. The OEM gland will take 1/4 inch packing material, either flax or teflon impregnated. I plan to do this job on my boat when it is hauled in a few months. If getting the washer and the old material out proves difficult, I'm going to replace the whole unit with a conventional bronze gland -- which will make repacking the gland in the future much easier.
If you have the OEM white nylon packing gland, as I do, it may be adjusted (tightened) by removing the locking cotter pin and turning the large nut nearest the coupling a bit clockwise and then replacing the cotter pin to lock the nut. If you are able to tighten it, that may reduce the leak to an acceptable level and fix your problem. If your original packing material, however (could it really be 15 yrs old???) is in need of replacement, that is a job best done with the boat on the hard. Once you remove the lock nut from the gland, you'll find a compression washer pressed against the packing material, and this must be removed. Some have done this by cutting it with a small Exacto knife and prying it out; others have loosened the hose clamps on the rubber gland and slid the whole unit forward, then back, thus exposing the washer. Yet others have gotten the washer out using picks. At that point, some sort of pick or corkscrew can be used to remove the old packing material and it must be removed. The OEM gland will take 1/4 inch packing material, either flax or teflon impregnated. I plan to do this job on my boat when it is hauled in a few months. If getting the washer and the old material out proves difficult, I'm going to replace the whole unit with a conventional bronze gland -- which will make repacking the gland in the future much easier.
Didn't Work
Landsend: I'd tried this previously but am completely unable to get the ring to move. It is a double set screw and I am able to remove both of them but cannot get the ring to move. The bellows itself is pretty hard and just feels 'old' if that makes any sense. I'd priced some of these two year ago at the Miami Strictly Sail show and they weren't too bad price-wise. Thanks for the advice. All: I'm still looking for recommendations on what to replace this with.
Landsend: I'd tried this previously but am completely unable to get the ring to move. It is a double set screw and I am able to remove both of them but cannot get the ring to move. The bellows itself is pretty hard and just feels 'old' if that makes any sense. I'd priced some of these two year ago at the Miami Strictly Sail show and they weren't too bad price-wise. Thanks for the advice. All: I'm still looking for recommendations on what to replace this with.
PYI PSS
Larry, I've replaced the stuffing boxes on both my boats with the Packless Shaft Seal (PSS) from PYI Inc. Link below. Easy enough, even for a non-mechanic like me. Can be done in water using care. No more leaks or drips. Can be purchased from Defender's, West Marine, or your favorite chandlery. By the way, noted your address. I spent many years at places ending in AFB. Dale E. Baker, MSgt, USAF, Ret.
Larry, I've replaced the stuffing boxes on both my boats with the Packless Shaft Seal (PSS) from PYI Inc. Link below. Easy enough, even for a non-mechanic like me. Can be done in water using care. No more leaks or drips. Can be purchased from Defender's, West Marine, or your favorite chandlery. By the way, noted your address. I spent many years at places ending in AFB. Dale E. Baker, MSgt, USAF, Ret.
Warren, change it!
Warren, I had the plastic gland on my H28.5. I tried to change the packing but couldn't get it out with the little corkscrew tool(the compression washer you mentioned + poor visibility). I asked a H30 owner if it was a "Packingless" gland. He went below and brought out his old plastic gland which was cracked 270 degrees around. Seems he pulled into Balto inner harbor and his wife went below and found water. He finally found the source and packed it with JB Weld putty and crossed his fingers. The inner harbor is a deep water port with noplace to run aground to keep from sinking, that was his first thought! He made it to a marina (under sail alone) that could immediately haul him and had it replaced. I immediately abandoned my plans to repack and replaced the whole thing with a bronze one (sorry, I don't remember brand or size). I now have a spare plastic gland if you want it. Now, if you want my trick for getting the flange off the shaft, that will require another whole posting. Tom s/v Orion's Child
Warren, I had the plastic gland on my H28.5. I tried to change the packing but couldn't get it out with the little corkscrew tool(the compression washer you mentioned + poor visibility). I asked a H30 owner if it was a "Packingless" gland. He went below and brought out his old plastic gland which was cracked 270 degrees around. Seems he pulled into Balto inner harbor and his wife went below and found water. He finally found the source and packed it with JB Weld putty and crossed his fingers. The inner harbor is a deep water port with noplace to run aground to keep from sinking, that was his first thought! He made it to a marina (under sail alone) that could immediately haul him and had it replaced. I immediately abandoned my plans to repack and replaced the whole thing with a bronze one (sorry, I don't remember brand or size). I now have a spare plastic gland if you want it. Now, if you want my trick for getting the flange off the shaft, that will require another whole posting. Tom s/v Orion's Child
For Tom
Thanks for the advice -- which I'll probably follow (i.e., replace the plastic gland with a bronze one this winter). To date, I've had no problem with the OEM gland. Since I store the engine key on the water strainer and close the raw water intake seacock after each sail, I check the gland by sight and feel each time I take the boat out. Another question: if I pull the shaft to replace the gland, I may as well replace the cutlass bearing as well (not sure how old it is). Do you know if the shaft/prop can be pulled without having to drop the rudder?
Thanks for the advice -- which I'll probably follow (i.e., replace the plastic gland with a bronze one this winter). To date, I've had no problem with the OEM gland. Since I store the engine key on the water strainer and close the raw water intake seacock after each sail, I check the gland by sight and feel each time I take the boat out. Another question: if I pull the shaft to replace the gland, I may as well replace the cutlass bearing as well (not sure how old it is). Do you know if the shaft/prop can be pulled without having to drop the rudder?
Warren, I can't help you there
Warren, Sorry, When I replaced the packing gland I didn't remove the shaft completely, just enough to get the new one on. When the cutlass bearing was replaced it was done without removing the shaft. Send me your email address and I can send you some files that show how to make the tool to do that (a prop puller/cutlass bearing press). brandywine@nni.com Tom s/v Orion's Child
Warren, Sorry, When I replaced the packing gland I didn't remove the shaft completely, just enough to get the new one on. When the cutlass bearing was replaced it was done without removing the shaft. Send me your email address and I can send you some files that show how to make the tool to do that (a prop puller/cutlass bearing press). brandywine@nni.com Tom s/v Orion's Child
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