I have substantial rust on the majority of the keel. I have verified the iron keel is still solid. Also tested an area using a wire brush on a heavy drill. Recommendations on what product to use on the keel once I have it sanded down to (a) keep it from further corrosion and (b) allow me to sand it to achieve a smoother finish?
Repairing Rusted Keel
- Thread starter Annapolis Day Sailor
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Probably best to grit blast that .. gonna be a chore to sand it.. but after it is clean, a barrier coat like the Interlux http://shop.hunterowners.com/prod.php?13021/Interlux Interprotect® 2000E⁄2001E & 2002E⁄2001E Kits. has been good on my iron keel.
Have not tried this; http://shop.hunterowners.com/prod.php?13040/Coat-It
Another coating to look at is coal tar epoxy. It is very tough and is used commercially on steel barges and ships and structures.
Have not tried this; http://shop.hunterowners.com/prod.php?13040/Coat-It
Another coating to look at is coal tar epoxy. It is very tough and is used commercially on steel barges and ships and structures.
After getting ALL the old paint off and power wire brushing it as best you can, wipe off all the dust with some solvent that will evaporate. I would the use (have used many times) Pettite Rust-Lok to bond to and seal all the surface rust. It's great stuff, BUT wear good disposable gloves - it will saty on your hands for days.
I agree with kloudie about the Inter-Protect material - probably 4 coats. After that a few coats of your usual anti-fouling bottom paint.
I agree with kloudie about the Inter-Protect material - probably 4 coats. After that a few coats of your usual anti-fouling bottom paint.
Use a decent angle grinder - a normal drill is not hefty enough - with a heavy-duty wire brush and grinding wheel. I used POR15 on my keel. It is one part (no mixing), and easier to apply than the 2-part Interlux. It has done decently over two seasons (in fresh water), wiht a few rust spots appearing. I used the Interlux on my rudder, and the two-part mixing can be a pain, plus I found it didn't apply so evenly (which isn't a big deal on the keel). However, it may be a better, longer lasting approach.
Repairing that keel is hard work. Take the advice of gloves but use eye and dust mask or better yet a respirator. When compeltly sanded, take a break and wash off the keel. In additon, wash off the top of the boat so the dust will not settle in the fine pores of the gel coat on top of the boat; otherwise it is heck to get off.
I would use a metal primer on the keel first and then come back with 5-6 coats. Let the first coat semi dry and knock off the dust bunnies that tend to settle on the epoxy. With the last coat, you can let it dry completely and lightly sand for adhesion of the paint to the epoxy or while the coat is still wet but not really wet, you can apply the first coat and I have done this successfully for many years. I suggest 2-3 coats of anit fouling on top of the epoxy. Good lluck.
crazy dave condon
I would use a metal primer on the keel first and then come back with 5-6 coats. Let the first coat semi dry and knock off the dust bunnies that tend to settle on the epoxy. With the last coat, you can let it dry completely and lightly sand for adhesion of the paint to the epoxy or while the coat is still wet but not really wet, you can apply the first coat and I have done this successfully for many years. I suggest 2-3 coats of anit fouling on top of the epoxy. Good lluck.
crazy dave condon
Yep, and get a grinding wheel too. And Dave is right - stuff will be flying all over so cover yourself and wear eye protection and a mask. You'll ache after crouching in all kinds of wierd positions under the boat. Put something down on the ground to sit on - hopefully a bit of a cushion.
Thanks ALL! I'll be on it in a week or so and will upload a few pics of the progress and lessons learned for the next novice!
Been there done that; mine looked like that on boat I bought and I underestimated what was involved. Believe me its even worse than it looks under the paint that remains. Forget sanding and start off with a heavy chisel and hammer to get off all the scale (probably a 1/4 inch worth of corroded metal - the stuff flakes off and you can save a lot of grinding work) then go to an angle grinder and a grinding disc for metal (the thick size) and grind to bare metal. There is going to be a lot of rust dust like Dave says so make a tent with plastic sheeting around the boat bottom ( I did not and wish I had). Finish with a Norton #40 sanding disc (They look like layered strips of sandpaper in a petal fashion - I was skeptical but they really work). I did not find wire brushes effective, they just pollished the scale. Then follow all the advice for painting prep with a metal protive product and do it immediately. Definitely go for some type of epoxy coating. You'll probably have to do some anyway to fair it.
And as stated it is hard tiresome dirty work especially on your back under a trailer.
Good luck
And as stated it is hard tiresome dirty work especially on your back under a trailer.
Good luck
Oh and as dave & others also stated, use a good filter type resperator, goggles, and one of those tyvek coveralls,
I'm doing the same thing at the moment and spend 3 hours today with the big 2000w angle grinder and a 175mm Diamond Grinding Cup Wheel.
The Diamond Grinding Cup Wheel was purchased for grinding down some high spots on some concrete floors, but it works really well with the rusty keel.
Instead of just grinding on top of the scales, it simply tears and knocks them off.
It also has a cup over the wheel, with a pipe for the vacuum cleaner to keep the dust down some.
It can also be kept pretty much parallel to the surface, for a smoother finish.
But I bought a smaller 100mm one for the smaller angle to get in between the hull and the keel.
All in all, this went much quicker than I would hoped for, still requiring the use a a normal angle grinder for the places where the iron had separated for a few cm.
It's also good advice to knock off as much as possible with a hammer before grinding.
Btw, this a 36 year old boat.
The Diamond Grinding Cup Wheel was purchased for grinding down some high spots on some concrete floors, but it works really well with the rusty keel.
Instead of just grinding on top of the scales, it simply tears and knocks them off.
It also has a cup over the wheel, with a pipe for the vacuum cleaner to keep the dust down some.
It can also be kept pretty much parallel to the surface, for a smoother finish.
But I bought a smaller 100mm one for the smaller angle to get in between the hull and the keel.
All in all, this went much quicker than I would hoped for, still requiring the use a a normal angle grinder for the places where the iron had separated for a few cm.
It's also good advice to knock off as much as possible with a hammer before grinding.
Btw, this a 36 year old boat.
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I would agree with Kloudie that blasting it is the best way (probably the best job too) to get it clean. It is supposed to be shinny when you do the first coat of epoxy. I have also heard that Rust Lok is supposed to do a good job.
I don't know if you can apply the epoxy coat over the Rust Lok or not.
Sometimes these jobs are really best left to the pro's depending on finances and your health.
I don't know if you can apply the epoxy coat over the Rust Lok or not.
Sometimes these jobs are really best left to the pro's depending on finances and your health.
Annapolis,
I just went thru this process as well! In fact my keel was painted the same blue color so when I saw your pic it was like a slight nightmare back to where I started several months ago. Don't worry though, you will get thru it.
Folks may have already mentioned this, but here is what worked for me! On the 'Harbor Freight Tools' website I bought a 4.5" angle grinder for $25 (it is the Chicago model with the paddle switch, also google coupon codes for HF and use the best one). It is now my favorite tool and well worth the $. The also sell a set of wire cup, wheel brushes for $10 which fit this grinder (1 of these cup brushes at Home Depot is $17 and I smoked it in an hour...not worth it...get the set from HF or just the flap wheel). At Home Depot or Ace they sell a '40 grit grinding flap wheel'. At HD the brand is 'Diablo' and cost $7, Ace brand was ~$5. Both worked VERY well, much better and faster than the wire cup. The wire cup brushes will work for the final surface clean up and rust removal / polish before coating but not strong enough for the heavy corrosion and paint removal. The angle grinder is geared much more powerful for things like this as compared to a drill or disc sander.
It took me a solid day and a half but I was able to clean my keel back to bare metal. Make sure to have goggles, a respirator, ear plugs, gloves and a hat which covers your ears. The dust gets everywhere!
Coating and sealing: once all rust and paint is gone wipe keel clean with thinner or another similar solvent. I then painted my keel with Interlux, Interprotect 2000E, first layer thinned approx 30% with their 216 thinner and 4 more coats at regular viscosity. I used this on the entire below water surface but you can just use it on the keel. Interlux tech support can answer questions and steer you with how to use this product.
Good luck and feel free to shoot me a note with any questions!
Sail on,
Joe
I just went thru this process as well! In fact my keel was painted the same blue color so when I saw your pic it was like a slight nightmare back to where I started several months ago. Don't worry though, you will get thru it.
Folks may have already mentioned this, but here is what worked for me! On the 'Harbor Freight Tools' website I bought a 4.5" angle grinder for $25 (it is the Chicago model with the paddle switch, also google coupon codes for HF and use the best one). It is now my favorite tool and well worth the $. The also sell a set of wire cup, wheel brushes for $10 which fit this grinder (1 of these cup brushes at Home Depot is $17 and I smoked it in an hour...not worth it...get the set from HF or just the flap wheel). At Home Depot or Ace they sell a '40 grit grinding flap wheel'. At HD the brand is 'Diablo' and cost $7, Ace brand was ~$5. Both worked VERY well, much better and faster than the wire cup. The wire cup brushes will work for the final surface clean up and rust removal / polish before coating but not strong enough for the heavy corrosion and paint removal. The angle grinder is geared much more powerful for things like this as compared to a drill or disc sander.
It took me a solid day and a half but I was able to clean my keel back to bare metal. Make sure to have goggles, a respirator, ear plugs, gloves and a hat which covers your ears. The dust gets everywhere!
Coating and sealing: once all rust and paint is gone wipe keel clean with thinner or another similar solvent. I then painted my keel with Interlux, Interprotect 2000E, first layer thinned approx 30% with their 216 thinner and 4 more coats at regular viscosity. I used this on the entire below water surface but you can just use it on the keel. Interlux tech support can answer questions and steer you with how to use this product.
Good luck and feel free to shoot me a note with any questions!
Sail on,
Joe
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