Repair Broken Chainplate Tierod

[steve21968]

Based on help and suggestions from an earlier post, I have been able to repair a broken chainplate tierod on my H34 which was damaged in a recent hurricane. The repair is not as recommended by Hunter (haul, cut hole in hull and remove/repair internal attachment point), but I feel it will work just fine for my recrerational needs, and I'm not breaking the bank to get it done. Details of repair can be found at:

http://www.anguilla-weather.com/tierod.htm

Will try to figure out how to post in Resource Library.

Steve Donahue
Anguilla, B.W.I.

 

[michaelanthony]

Great job! Should now last another 25 years.
Best,
Mike

 

[jp montegut]

How did this work out for you...I am having the same problem

 

[steve21968]

Broken Chainplate

It's been like 8 months or so now, and it's been working fine. Been out with some 30 knot gusts, and had the rail submerged with no problems. It was really a pretty easy repair, and certainly lot easier than some recommendations (cut a hole in the hull??). There are pictures and details somewhere on here, but don't kow where. Let me know if you need more infor - steve@anguilla-weather.com

 

[michaelanthony]

I had same problem. Steves fix worked for me too.
I'll post some photos.
Mike

 

[michaelanthony]

Hope this works!

 

[thelocoman]

View attachment 27248
Hope this works!

This looks a lot better to me. With the new plate being under the old chain plate rather than above, makes it much more stronger

 

[Rick Sylvester]

Michael, thanks so much for sharing,

your solution is looks to be the most sensible. I appreciate everyone's input though, I've learned a lot.

I like that you moved the original anchor out of the way. On my H40 the plates look to be in good condition but I'm planning to effect a similar repair because I just don't trust the mild steel stock. If (or when) it deteriorates, even with stainless stock below, it could flake away and allow the tie-rod to become loose.

In fact, I'd be willing to wager that the angle stock Hunter used is the same exact stuff they used for the motor mount beds. I just replaced mine because they had been repeatedly bathed in saltwater due to Hunter's ridiculous placement of the raw water strainer. Mine even had those little gussets welded in.

They got to be pretty ugly. It was worth spending the money for the stainless replacements.

 

[jp montegut]

Steve, Mike, all
Thanks for info.
JP

 

[jp montegut]

Hi Michael,

How did this work out for you? I am looking at doing the same procedure...but I am concerned that without the L Bracket...that there is not enough support to prevent bend in the new SS plate you put in. We normally sail in 15-20 knots

 

[kloudie1]

I am just looking at the great pictures and wondering if the old bracket couldn’t be gotten out by putting a hole in the vertical wall of the horizontal fiberglass “beam” ?? It looks like a hole about 10” long (forward of the big vertical beam) would allow the top of the fiberglass beam to remain, and then the plate that was cut out could be re-glassed in after the angle iron was replaced?? I have looked at my plates a lot (fortunately, there is no rust) and after looking at these pictures and the drawings, it seems like pulling the iron forward or aft and inboard through a hole cut (with a multi-tool to keep from getting into the hull) in the vertical wall of the beam would work..?? definitely not criticizing here, just wondering..

 

[Rick Sylvester]

Claude, I was wondering the same thing

although I'm quite a ways away from doing the deed.

I doubt letting it sit off to the side as Michael has done would be a problem but like you I'll be investigating a neat way to remove it. Also, after looking at Michael's pics (thanks again) I would also suggest openings with rounded corners to prevent stress cracks given the loading in this area. Another thought is to bolt reinforcing plates over any openings for strength if there were concerns.

The thickness of the much stronger stainless would probably compensate for any lack of angle there.

Just my VERY unscientific musings.

 

[michaelanthony]

Claude, good idea but I would imagine if you're going to go through all that cutting and glassing you may as well do it the way Hunter recommends... from the outside. Those L brackets are certainly pretty bulky.
On a more encouraging note. I never had checked my chain plates until I read Steve's thread. I was shocked to see the condition (starboard side.. I'll attach photo) The actual chain plate was only attached to to the anchor by about 1/4" of rusty steel. But the amazing thing is I had been out on numerous occasions prior to this in 15 to 20 knts with port rails under water! So if it held then, it will hold now!!
I have just completed a 300 mile trip to Florida and no signs of fiberglass stress or loose rigging. But thanks to Rick I now have to take a good look at those engine brackets. They are exactly the same as the chain plate anchors!

Its probably hard to tell from this picture but that black area is air!