I have an early model Oday Daysailer I and intend to repaint the white hull. I am thinking of using Interlux Toplac. Has anyone had any experience with this product? Also, what is the best way to reapply the black waterline stripe on the hull?
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M
ME
Painting Your Boat
Painting Your Boat My wife and I completed a full paint job of our Hunter 30 last year. Be forewarned, this is not a quick job especially if you are doing the entire boat (hull and topsides) as we did. Step 1. Grind out and fill in all nicks, dents, blemishes, scratches, spider cracks, etc. Fill with epoxy filler and sand flush. This will take multiple steps if the problem is deep. Step 2. Sand entire surface with 80 grit sandpaper. Change paper often, as it will clog quickly. The object here is not to sand off the gelcoat like they do to Awlgrip. It is only to rough up the surface for better adhesion. Step 3. Choose paint. We used Interlux Toplac. Warning: This is expensive paint, about $32 per quart (yeah that is quart - not gallon). There are several colors available. Keep in mind that most people believe that darker colors show blemishes (boo boo’s) easier than lighter colors. You also need to get the Interlux primer (about $25 a quart). We used Toplac because it was the best single part paint (no mixing). We were very pleased with the results. Step 4. Wipe down the entire surface to be painted with Interlux 333 just prior to painting. This stuff does come in gallons (about $35). Many people will tell you it is a waste, but I don’t think our results would have been near as good had we not used it. It removes all of the sanding residue and is slow drying so it helps the paint cure properly especially if it is hot. Step 5. Paint the surface (roll and tip) with 100% primer. We used the high-density foam rollers available at Home Depot. They worked very well and they are much cheaper than those available at the marine stores. Home Depot sells these in bulk (plastic containers with about 10-12 in each). I highly recommend that you buy them this way as you will go through a lot of them. Also, you need to use a good quality brush to tip off. Also available at Home Depot, can't remember the name (starts with a “P”), but they come in the yellow package. Don't worry about brush marks, the paint is self-leveling and the brush marks will "fall" out. The biggest concern is not to use too much paint because you will get orange peel if you do. This is why you want to use a roller and not a brush to apply the paint. Also, we learned the “tip” part of “roll and tip” is not using the tip of the brush. Pull the brush along just as you would if you were using it to paint. Only go in one direction and flair out to pick the brush up from the paint. It takes some practice to get the right touch and this primer coat is the best place to get that practice. Step 5. Wait for paint to dry. This is a minimum of 16 hours (yeah, I did say 16 hours, which is one of the reasons this is not a quick job). If you go sooner, the paint is not fully cured and you will screw it up. Step 6. Sand with 220grit paper. Change paper often. Use a sanding block, not the paper in your hand. Home Depot has some nice stiff rubber ones. Also, buy your sand paper at Home Depot (I should be getting a commission for all this advertising, but really they have the best prices on this stuff), anyway, buy the sandpaper in the large boxes. Get a box of 80grit, 220grit, and 320grit. You will need every bit of it. The sheets are 8 ½” x 11” and you get 4 strips out of each piece for the sanding blocks. Step 7. Wipe down entire surface with Interlux 333. Step 8. Paint the second coat with a mixture of 50% primer and 50% Toplac of what ever color you choose. (Roll and tip) Again, I know this sounds strange, but it really works. It is actually recommended by Interlux. It basically gives the surface a matte finish prior to putting on the finish coat, which creates an excellent base. I think the finish coats looked better as a result. One caution: Remember that the paint is expensive, so you want to mix small amounts at a time so you don’t waste paint. Step 9. After drying for 16+ hours, sand with 320grit. Note: I said 320grit, not 220grit. Step 10. Wipe down with Interlux 333 (I think you see a pattern developing here.) Also, I should mention that you wipe down with the 333 just before you put on the next coat. Don’t wipe down and then leave overnight and paint the next day. The 333 not only cleans the surface it also helps the paint. Step 11. Apply the third coat with 100% Toplac (Roll and tip) Step 12. After drying for 16+ hours, sand with 320grit – CAREFULLY! You don’t want to over sand. You are only trying to rough the surface so the final coat will have good surface to adhere to. Step 13. Apply the forth and final coat with 100% Toplac (Roll and tip). Since this is the final coat, you will want to use extra care with this one. The three previous coats of paint will make you feel like you are painting on glass – this is good. Step 14. Let dry for as many days as possible before you splash. The longer the more time the paint has to cure and the stronger it will be. Some other comments: Painting the hull will be a lot of work, but if you are careful the results are amazing. I had guys who do Awlgrip painting look and the boat and are amazed at how good it looks. As with any owner paint job, the Practical Sailor 15 foot rule is in effect. Don’t be too critical. Others won’t see the little “opps” that you will spot right away. Clean you brushes immediately after painting, do not let this paint (especially Toplac) dry on the brushes. It is like plastic when it dries and very hard to get off. Don’t try to clean the high-density foam rollers. It’s almost impossible and not worth the time and effort. This is why you want to buy the bulk package. Take you time, this is not a job to be hurried. If you think the hull is a difficult job, you don’t even want to know about the topsides. Comparing the two, the hull is a breeze. On the topsides there are all sorts of angles, obstructions, it hard to move around, etc., etc. The cockpit is a real joy to do. NOT!! As for the waterline stripe: After the final coat dries, use the green fine line masking tape to mask off the line. Sand the stripe with 320grit (be careful not to hit the other areas), wipe off with 333, and then paint (roll and tip) the stripe with Black Toplac. Wait 16hrs to dry and then apply a 2nd coat. You will be tempted to paint the stripe with the brush – Don’t do it. The brush applies too much paint and you will get runs and orange peel.
Painting Your Boat My wife and I completed a full paint job of our Hunter 30 last year. Be forewarned, this is not a quick job especially if you are doing the entire boat (hull and topsides) as we did. Step 1. Grind out and fill in all nicks, dents, blemishes, scratches, spider cracks, etc. Fill with epoxy filler and sand flush. This will take multiple steps if the problem is deep. Step 2. Sand entire surface with 80 grit sandpaper. Change paper often, as it will clog quickly. The object here is not to sand off the gelcoat like they do to Awlgrip. It is only to rough up the surface for better adhesion. Step 3. Choose paint. We used Interlux Toplac. Warning: This is expensive paint, about $32 per quart (yeah that is quart - not gallon). There are several colors available. Keep in mind that most people believe that darker colors show blemishes (boo boo’s) easier than lighter colors. You also need to get the Interlux primer (about $25 a quart). We used Toplac because it was the best single part paint (no mixing). We were very pleased with the results. Step 4. Wipe down the entire surface to be painted with Interlux 333 just prior to painting. This stuff does come in gallons (about $35). Many people will tell you it is a waste, but I don’t think our results would have been near as good had we not used it. It removes all of the sanding residue and is slow drying so it helps the paint cure properly especially if it is hot. Step 5. Paint the surface (roll and tip) with 100% primer. We used the high-density foam rollers available at Home Depot. They worked very well and they are much cheaper than those available at the marine stores. Home Depot sells these in bulk (plastic containers with about 10-12 in each). I highly recommend that you buy them this way as you will go through a lot of them. Also, you need to use a good quality brush to tip off. Also available at Home Depot, can't remember the name (starts with a “P”), but they come in the yellow package. Don't worry about brush marks, the paint is self-leveling and the brush marks will "fall" out. The biggest concern is not to use too much paint because you will get orange peel if you do. This is why you want to use a roller and not a brush to apply the paint. Also, we learned the “tip” part of “roll and tip” is not using the tip of the brush. Pull the brush along just as you would if you were using it to paint. Only go in one direction and flair out to pick the brush up from the paint. It takes some practice to get the right touch and this primer coat is the best place to get that practice. Step 5. Wait for paint to dry. This is a minimum of 16 hours (yeah, I did say 16 hours, which is one of the reasons this is not a quick job). If you go sooner, the paint is not fully cured and you will screw it up. Step 6. Sand with 220grit paper. Change paper often. Use a sanding block, not the paper in your hand. Home Depot has some nice stiff rubber ones. Also, buy your sand paper at Home Depot (I should be getting a commission for all this advertising, but really they have the best prices on this stuff), anyway, buy the sandpaper in the large boxes. Get a box of 80grit, 220grit, and 320grit. You will need every bit of it. The sheets are 8 ½” x 11” and you get 4 strips out of each piece for the sanding blocks. Step 7. Wipe down entire surface with Interlux 333. Step 8. Paint the second coat with a mixture of 50% primer and 50% Toplac of what ever color you choose. (Roll and tip) Again, I know this sounds strange, but it really works. It is actually recommended by Interlux. It basically gives the surface a matte finish prior to putting on the finish coat, which creates an excellent base. I think the finish coats looked better as a result. One caution: Remember that the paint is expensive, so you want to mix small amounts at a time so you don’t waste paint. Step 9. After drying for 16+ hours, sand with 320grit. Note: I said 320grit, not 220grit. Step 10. Wipe down with Interlux 333 (I think you see a pattern developing here.) Also, I should mention that you wipe down with the 333 just before you put on the next coat. Don’t wipe down and then leave overnight and paint the next day. The 333 not only cleans the surface it also helps the paint. Step 11. Apply the third coat with 100% Toplac (Roll and tip) Step 12. After drying for 16+ hours, sand with 320grit – CAREFULLY! You don’t want to over sand. You are only trying to rough the surface so the final coat will have good surface to adhere to. Step 13. Apply the forth and final coat with 100% Toplac (Roll and tip). Since this is the final coat, you will want to use extra care with this one. The three previous coats of paint will make you feel like you are painting on glass – this is good. Step 14. Let dry for as many days as possible before you splash. The longer the more time the paint has to cure and the stronger it will be. Some other comments: Painting the hull will be a lot of work, but if you are careful the results are amazing. I had guys who do Awlgrip painting look and the boat and are amazed at how good it looks. As with any owner paint job, the Practical Sailor 15 foot rule is in effect. Don’t be too critical. Others won’t see the little “opps” that you will spot right away. Clean you brushes immediately after painting, do not let this paint (especially Toplac) dry on the brushes. It is like plastic when it dries and very hard to get off. Don’t try to clean the high-density foam rollers. It’s almost impossible and not worth the time and effort. This is why you want to buy the bulk package. Take you time, this is not a job to be hurried. If you think the hull is a difficult job, you don’t even want to know about the topsides. Comparing the two, the hull is a breeze. On the topsides there are all sorts of angles, obstructions, it hard to move around, etc., etc. The cockpit is a real joy to do. NOT!! As for the waterline stripe: After the final coat dries, use the green fine line masking tape to mask off the line. Sand the stripe with 320grit (be careful not to hit the other areas), wipe off with 333, and then paint (roll and tip) the stripe with Black Toplac. Wait 16hrs to dry and then apply a 2nd coat. You will be tempted to paint the stripe with the brush – Don’t do it. The brush applies too much paint and you will get runs and orange peel.
T
Tom
ME - Boat Painting
How much paint/primer was required for your 30 foot boat? Also, if you have breakdown between hull and topsides, that would be great.
How much paint/primer was required for your 30 foot boat? Also, if you have breakdown between hull and topsides, that would be great.
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