Removing wheel (autopilot installation)
- Thread starter dlewis812
- Start date
- Status
Yes, usually a three jaw works better than a two with the spokes.... Use Tef-Gel when you put it back together...
Agree. And a friend of mine used a small puller, which didn't work, found a larger one which did. In this case, bigger is better. Tef Gel, Lanocote, grease. Just don't put it back dry.
Usually most wheels will 'pop off' with the precise blow from a 'soft' rawhide or lead hammer.
Loosen the nut so that it totally covers the thread end of the spindle and so that the threads of the nut and spindle are 'protected'. Put a 'plate' of either metal or dense wood to the end of the nut / spindle, begin to 'pry' the wheel hub towards you, and give the 'plate' a sharp blow from the hammer into the nose of the spindle/plate. Sometimes takes three hands (two hands and a 'knee') to do this.
Especially if the spindle and hub bore were put together with a 'grease', the process is usually more successful.
Mechanics rarely use 'pullers' just a BIG 'soft' lead or 'rawhide' hammer and 'levers' with precise aim so not to damage 'threads', etc. However, its a developed 'art' to remove a shaft connection with a hammer; .... if your aim is 'real good' then a steel hammer.
Loosen the nut so that it totally covers the thread end of the spindle and so that the threads of the nut and spindle are 'protected'. Put a 'plate' of either metal or dense wood to the end of the nut / spindle, begin to 'pry' the wheel hub towards you, and give the 'plate' a sharp blow from the hammer into the nose of the spindle/plate. Sometimes takes three hands (two hands and a 'knee') to do this.
Especially if the spindle and hub bore were put together with a 'grease', the process is usually more successful.
Mechanics rarely use 'pullers' just a BIG 'soft' lead or 'rawhide' hammer and 'levers' with precise aim so not to damage 'threads', etc. However, its a developed 'art' to remove a shaft connection with a hammer; .... if your aim is 'real good' then a steel hammer.
Rich,
That can and will work on a tapered wheel hub. Sadly most early Edson pedestals, and Yacht Specialties, are a straight shaft, no taper. Having pulled more wheels than I care to count, just did one three weeks ago, MANY of them require gear pullers if lube was never used. The one three weeks ago was so frozen on I had to stop and re-grease the threaded rod on my three jaw puller as it was beginning to bind..... I have had some on there so tightly that the jaws left indents on the stainless wheel hub.
Arrrrgh! I knew it. I had a forked wedge for ball joints that I used in the 70's. Gave it away with a bunch of other auto stuff that doesn't apply to modern day mechanics. Does someone have a spreadsheet of old tools that are still used? :cussing::cussing:
All U Get
Gear pullers are definitely the way to go. I know my pedestal isn't beefy enough to allow prying, hammering or using a ball joint fork. The gear pullers concentrate the force where needed by pulling on the hub and bracing against the end of the shaft.
- Status