Removing water ballast

[Jeff Peltier]

This conversation has come up from time to time. Because of our abnormally low lake levels this fall, I decided to remove the ballast to get the boat back on the lift. I used a hole saw to drill the vent hole out to 1.5" and replaced the existing vent plug with an 1/5" plug. This allowed me to use a 1/2 HP Utility pump (because I had one) to pump the tank dry. I used a 3/4" hose with a metal check valve on the end to stick down the hole. The metal check valve adds enough weight to sink to the bottom and makes the pump easier to prime. The procedure takes about 15 minutes and I seem to gain about 3" to 4" of clearence. Before this, I was using lines from the posts of the boat lift, through turning blocks at the stern cleats, to the winches, to pull the boat the last 6' to 8' onto the lift. This probably took less the 15 minutes, but was alot more work.Amasing what we do to extend the season, as yesterday was a beautiful sail in MN. Saling under spinnaker and watching the turning of the leaves along the shoreline are moments to remember!!!Jeff Peltier

 

[Jonathan Costello]

DC Pump?

Jeff,I assume this is a DC pump unless you have electric at your lift. Where would you get a pump like this? Does it plug into a cigarette lighter? Also where do you get a metal check valve? I think this idea would be beneficial for trailer sailors that could have difficulty getting their boat on the trailer when tides are low.ThanksJonathanHeeling Powers

 

[Jeff Peltier]

110 volt

This is 110 volt as I have power on my dock. There are 12 volt pumps that would work as well, although I suspect only a couple pumpings per battery charge and I doubt if a cigarette lighter plugin would work, unless it was a lower powered one. West marine has quite a list of pumps, although take note that not all of them are self priming.