I would like to remove the cabin sole, but after drilling two plugs I found no screws.Can anyone tell me if they have come across this situation, and what to expect before continue this project.
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Carl foster
Plugs
There are two likely reasons for plugs.First is strictly looks.Second is more likely.Plug size hole is bored thru plywood and partialy into innerliner,then drive plug in to hold down plywood as glue dries.Then trim and finish surface.Tried this on my 27,not easy to trim considering how thin teak veneer is.Check to see if existing hole goes into fiberglass innerliner underneath,this will tell the story.
There are two likely reasons for plugs.First is strictly looks.Second is more likely.Plug size hole is bored thru plywood and partialy into innerliner,then drive plug in to hold down plywood as glue dries.Then trim and finish surface.Tried this on my 27,not easy to trim considering how thin teak veneer is.Check to see if existing hole goes into fiberglass innerliner underneath,this will tell the story.
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Ed Schenck
Glued, not screwed?
My only experience was similar to yours. Tried to drill out a couple of those "bungs" only to find fiberglass. But the only place I tried that was on the step into my H37C v-berth. Turned out to be simply glued with the leading edge corner molding screwed over it. In the main salon I do not know where the sole attaches. On an H37C there are large voids under the sole on either side of the bilge. Yours is probably like that. You could cut out a section and look under there.
My only experience was similar to yours. Tried to drill out a couple of those "bungs" only to find fiberglass. But the only place I tried that was on the step into my H37C v-berth. Turned out to be simply glued with the leading edge corner molding screwed over it. In the main salon I do not know where the sole attaches. On an H37C there are large voids under the sole on either side of the bilge. Yours is probably like that. You could cut out a section and look under there.
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Steve Weinstein
You might try contacting Greg Emerson
at Hunter in Florida. I had a similar issue regarding whether or not to lift the sole to run new bilge hose. Unfortunately the discussion didn't revolve around how the sole was attached but I'm confidant Greg would know the answer to your question. And possibly give you some insight as to the easiest way to do the project.
at Hunter in Florida. I had a similar issue regarding whether or not to lift the sole to run new bilge hose. Unfortunately the discussion didn't revolve around how the sole was attached but I'm confidant Greg would know the answer to your question. And possibly give you some insight as to the easiest way to do the project.
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Carl foster
My 27' glued
Not familiar with details on 33 and 37 but 27 has one piece lower innerliner which includes cabin sole.Have seen some which did not have teak holly sole and others with,may have been option,also variations in material used for bulkheads and furnishings. Mine had and now has glued in teak holly plywood veneer glued in
Not familiar with details on 33 and 37 but 27 has one piece lower innerliner which includes cabin sole.Have seen some which did not have teak holly sole and others with,may have been option,also variations in material used for bulkheads and furnishings. Mine had and now has glued in teak holly plywood veneer glued in
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Bob MIller
Cabin Sole Plugs
I needed to enlarge one of the bildge access hatches on my 37C to gain better access to my knot meter and depth sounder. The flooring consisted of two layers of 1/4 to 5/16 inch fibre glass with 1-1/4 inch plywood embedded in-between. The cabin sole was basically just a teak and holly veneer less than 1/8 inch thick glued to the fibre glass floor structure. The piece I happened to remove had one of those plugs in it, to my supprise, since there was no screw in it. The wood plug protruded into a hole in the fibre glass floor. It's only my assumption that these plugs are installed to prevent the laminant from sliding around while the laminant is being installed and glued. The good news is that the glue was a soft plyable glue somewhat like rubber cement for paper. By being careful, I was able to successfully peel the laminant off the fibre glass floor fairly easily with a metal spatula without destroying it. However, I was only removing a small piece about 5 by 6 inches. (I wanted to re-use it to fabricate a new hatch). Hope this helps.
I needed to enlarge one of the bildge access hatches on my 37C to gain better access to my knot meter and depth sounder. The flooring consisted of two layers of 1/4 to 5/16 inch fibre glass with 1-1/4 inch plywood embedded in-between. The cabin sole was basically just a teak and holly veneer less than 1/8 inch thick glued to the fibre glass floor structure. The piece I happened to remove had one of those plugs in it, to my supprise, since there was no screw in it. The wood plug protruded into a hole in the fibre glass floor. It's only my assumption that these plugs are installed to prevent the laminant from sliding around while the laminant is being installed and glued. The good news is that the glue was a soft plyable glue somewhat like rubber cement for paper. By being careful, I was able to successfully peel the laminant off the fibre glass floor fairly easily with a metal spatula without destroying it. However, I was only removing a small piece about 5 by 6 inches. (I wanted to re-use it to fabricate a new hatch). Hope this helps.
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JRUNCIMAN
Sole cabin removal done
Thank you all for your feedback. I removed the sole this weekend and it was all glued with silocone. It seem that the cabin sole was remove privously. Thank again for the input.
Thank you all for your feedback. I removed the sole this weekend and it was all glued with silocone. It seem that the cabin sole was remove privously. Thank again for the input.
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Ron San Martino
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Dave Simpson
And More Details, Please
I'm planning on making new, 1/4" panels to fit exactly over the existing ones, then glue them in place after they are finished. Being that we live aboard 24/7, finishing the sole in place would be inconvenient to say the least. Think I'll run into any problems?
I'm planning on making new, 1/4" panels to fit exactly over the existing ones, then glue them in place after they are finished. Being that we live aboard 24/7, finishing the sole in place would be inconvenient to say the least. Think I'll run into any problems?
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J Runciman
removing sole H33 (some details)
After talking with Hunter Yachts in Florida, it was relayed to me that the original floor was secured with screws. My floor however had been previously lifted and therefore it was now being held in place with silicone. To lift it you start at an hedge, usually around the bilge cutting with a sharp knife you separate the teak and holly veneer plywood from the sub floor. Once you have accomplished this you can VERY SLOWLY begin the lift and separate the plywood from the sub floor.
After talking with Hunter Yachts in Florida, it was relayed to me that the original floor was secured with screws. My floor however had been previously lifted and therefore it was now being held in place with silicone. To lift it you start at an hedge, usually around the bilge cutting with a sharp knife you separate the teak and holly veneer plywood from the sub floor. Once you have accomplished this you can VERY SLOWLY begin the lift and separate the plywood from the sub floor.
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