I am replacing a stantion on a 1998 Hunter and the bolts were sheared off at deck level. Besides trying to drill the center of each and using a screw extractor any other suggestions? Trying to tap through the center of the stainless bolts can be a little tricky without damaging the threaded inserts.
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Barry, can you turn the
stanchion base 45 degrees and drill new holes? If so, you will want to seal around the old screws with thinned epoxy and bed the base well with the goop of your choice. You mention threaded inserts. Could glue in new ones in the new holes? How deep id the glass before the bolts get to the inserts? You can probably extract the old bolts without much damage. Can you cut a slot with a diamond bit in a dremel tool and unscrew the bolt with a small screw driver? What's the diameter of the bolt? Is it stuck hard or just sheared off? What's underneath? Are new through bolts a possibility?
stanchion base 45 degrees and drill new holes? If so, you will want to seal around the old screws with thinned epoxy and bed the base well with the goop of your choice. You mention threaded inserts. Could glue in new ones in the new holes? How deep id the glass before the bolts get to the inserts? You can probably extract the old bolts without much damage. Can you cut a slot with a diamond bit in a dremel tool and unscrew the bolt with a small screw driver? What's the diameter of the bolt? Is it stuck hard or just sheared off? What's underneath? Are new through bolts a possibility?
try a left hand drill bit
or a small punch/chisel to slowly turn it by hitting the punch/chisel with a hammer going 360 degrees in a circle. If you can get it out a few threads then use a hacksaw to cut a groove across the top and use a straight blade screwdriver in the slot to screw it out. I'm a huge fan of left hand drill bits- remember you have to run your drill in reverse when you use them. Best of luck
or a small punch/chisel to slowly turn it by hitting the punch/chisel with a hammer going 360 degrees in a circle. If you can get it out a few threads then use a hacksaw to cut a groove across the top and use a straight blade screwdriver in the slot to screw it out. I'm a huge fan of left hand drill bits- remember you have to run your drill in reverse when you use them. Best of luck
Sears carries left handed drill bits.
However, I don't think that is what they are called. I think it is something like damaged bolt remover, or something like that. They are designed to remove broken bolts. I think they are around $20-$30 a set.
However, I don't think that is what they are called. I think it is something like damaged bolt remover, or something like that. They are designed to remove broken bolts. I think they are around $20-$30 a set.
Over dirll and use a drift punch
Start out with the smallest drill you have and after center punching the exact center drill all the way along the bolt or as far as possible. Go to the next size up and repeat. Keep increasing until there is just a thin wall of bolt left. If you are off center with the hole just go till one side is really thin. Then take a drift punch (flat on the end for "drifting" stuff) and collapse the bolt into the hole you just made. Once it is collapsed, you can get a pair of needle nose vice grips and finish unscrewing it. Occasionally you will bust through the root of the bolt thread and into the backing plate threads when you drill. Not a problem just make sure that the odd piece of bolt thread gets removed before you put the new bolt (coated with never seize) in.
Start out with the smallest drill you have and after center punching the exact center drill all the way along the bolt or as far as possible. Go to the next size up and repeat. Keep increasing until there is just a thin wall of bolt left. If you are off center with the hole just go till one side is really thin. Then take a drift punch (flat on the end for "drifting" stuff) and collapse the bolt into the hole you just made. Once it is collapsed, you can get a pair of needle nose vice grips and finish unscrewing it. Occasionally you will bust through the root of the bolt thread and into the backing plate threads when you drill. Not a problem just make sure that the odd piece of bolt thread gets removed before you put the new bolt (coated with never seize) in.
Had this problem...
I had this very same problem and ran into the same difficulties. The screw head sheard off level with the stanchion base, which meant that the screw body itself stuck out just above the deck level. For some strange reason I finally decided to put a pair of vice grips on the screw end, making them as tight as I possibly could. To my surprise this worked and I was able to slowly turn the screw out. As it turned I was able to then get a better grip. I had tried everything before doing this including drilling, using a screw removal tol, etc, and nothing had worked, but because I had a bit of the screw end visible above deck the vice grips worked fast and easy. Rob
I had this very same problem and ran into the same difficulties. The screw head sheard off level with the stanchion base, which meant that the screw body itself stuck out just above the deck level. For some strange reason I finally decided to put a pair of vice grips on the screw end, making them as tight as I possibly could. To my surprise this worked and I was able to slowly turn the screw out. As it turned I was able to then get a better grip. I had tried everything before doing this including drilling, using a screw removal tol, etc, and nothing had worked, but because I had a bit of the screw end visible above deck the vice grips worked fast and easy. Rob
Dremel tool
A dremel tool has many uses and is an all around great investment. Install a cutting wheel and score a groove across the top of the bolt then insert a screw driver to remove. Put two cutting wheels on to make a wider groove for a thicker bladed screwdriver if more power is needed.
A dremel tool has many uses and is an all around great investment. Install a cutting wheel and score a groove across the top of the bolt then insert a screw driver to remove. Put two cutting wheels on to make a wider groove for a thicker bladed screwdriver if more power is needed.
assume that you are screwed into metal.
Barry: I assume that you are screwed into an aluminum backing plate. It is doubtful that you are going to be able to get the old screw out and still be able to use the existing threads. If you can use a slightly larger screw you may want to drill it out and re-tap the threads. Good luck.
Barry: I assume that you are screwed into an aluminum backing plate. It is doubtful that you are going to be able to get the old screw out and still be able to use the existing threads. If you can use a slightly larger screw you may want to drill it out and re-tap the threads. Good luck.
Not Exact Footprint of Original
Barry, I replaced both a stanchion and a bowrail on my H-26. On the Hunter replacements, their bases were either not drilled or the holes they did have did not line up exactly with the existing holes on the boat. In either case, I had to re-drill and re-tap. Wasn't a huge deal. BrianW
Barry, I replaced both a stanchion and a bowrail on my H-26. On the Hunter replacements, their bases were either not drilled or the holes they did have did not line up exactly with the existing holes on the boat. In either case, I had to re-drill and re-tap. Wasn't a huge deal. BrianW
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