Through a dumb move of my own, I have placed two nice deep, about 0.015 to 0.020", scratches on the bow, just below the water line. I did not go past the outer layer of the plastic, but I would like to try to remove the damage if possible. That said should I wet sand and wax after, or just leave the scratch, and remove the material that was pushed out and call it? Any one had to do any thing similar to this? Thanks, John
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Rob McLaughlin
marine-tex
If it were me, I would use something like Marine-Tex to fill the scratch. Use water on your fingers or on the tool you are using to work it like putty, because it hardens like a rock. Then sand it all smooth with something like 220 grit, then progressively higher grits up to like 600, then buff if its above the water line, or paint if below.
If it were me, I would use something like Marine-Tex to fill the scratch. Use water on your fingers or on the tool you are using to work it like putty, because it hardens like a rock. Then sand it all smooth with something like 220 grit, then progressively higher grits up to like 600, then buff if its above the water line, or paint if below.
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Tom
The first is the worst,..
In my first boat, first trip out, I missjudged the speed into the dock and landed a little hard. Put a nice gouge in the bow. The MarineTex works well, and you'll become an expert in no time. I found that this helps: 1. Sand out the gouge to rough up the surface and clean out with acetone (wear gloves). 2. Fill the area to be repaired and scrape off the excess to the level to match the surrounding area. 3. Cover the repair with wax paper and tape it in place. Air actually inhibits the chemical reaction of the resin/hardner and it will provide a nice smooth finished surface. I usually don't bother with final sanding to a perfect finish, but Rob gave good advice if it is important to you. Fair winds, Tom
In my first boat, first trip out, I missjudged the speed into the dock and landed a little hard. Put a nice gouge in the bow. The MarineTex works well, and you'll become an expert in no time. I found that this helps: 1. Sand out the gouge to rough up the surface and clean out with acetone (wear gloves). 2. Fill the area to be repaired and scrape off the excess to the level to match the surrounding area. 3. Cover the repair with wax paper and tape it in place. Air actually inhibits the chemical reaction of the resin/hardner and it will provide a nice smooth finished surface. I usually don't bother with final sanding to a perfect finish, but Rob gave good advice if it is important to you. Fair winds, Tom
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Jim willis
Not urgent, but do it right otherwise it shows!
If you go to the Gelcoat and and Plastics Forum I wrote a ermanent ost on fixing gelcoat nicks, scratches etc. Something on color matching too! Thanks Jim W
If you go to the Gelcoat and and Plastics Forum I wrote a ermanent ost on fixing gelcoat nicks, scratches etc. Something on color matching too! Thanks Jim W
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John Radcliff
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the advice. If the weather in nice, I am going to try this in the morning. Please keep the good advice on the plastic skin on the H170 coming. Jim, I did a search in the Gels & Plastics forum for a post by you and I did not see anything that looked like what you were talking about. Can you post a link? I really want this too look factory when I am done. High hopes, but a good mark to aim for. Thanks, John
Thanks for the advice. If the weather in nice, I am going to try this in the morning. Please keep the good advice on the plastic skin on the H170 coming. Jim, I did a search in the Gels & Plastics forum for a post by you and I did not see anything that looked like what you were talking about. Can you post a link? I really want this too look factory when I am done. High hopes, but a good mark to aim for. Thanks, John
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Henry Scurlock
You may not have to do more than sand it out...
Because of the hull material of the 170, you may well be able to just sand and polish the scratches out. Hunter lit says; Finish The outer layer of ACP is a BASF plastic called LURAN-S. This plastic is specially formulated to provide a beautiful glossy finish that is very easy to maintain. Dirt and grime is easily removed without the use of harsh chemicals. The finish will never develop the crazing associated with gel-coat and since the color goes so deep into the outer layer, scratches can be sanded out and buffed back to nearly new finish. This makes most minor damage easy to repair without using special techniques, resins, or paints. Since you can do this quickly and easily yourself, you’ll save money. But since the ACP structure is so much stronger than fiberglass, you’re much less likely to have to repair it to begin with.
Because of the hull material of the 170, you may well be able to just sand and polish the scratches out. Hunter lit says; Finish The outer layer of ACP is a BASF plastic called LURAN-S. This plastic is specially formulated to provide a beautiful glossy finish that is very easy to maintain. Dirt and grime is easily removed without the use of harsh chemicals. The finish will never develop the crazing associated with gel-coat and since the color goes so deep into the outer layer, scratches can be sanded out and buffed back to nearly new finish. This makes most minor damage easy to repair without using special techniques, resins, or paints. Since you can do this quickly and easily yourself, you’ll save money. But since the ACP structure is so much stronger than fiberglass, you’re much less likely to have to repair it to begin with.
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Frank Ladd
I woundn't use Marine Tex!
That is not what a Hunter Dealer would use. Nor is it what the factory recommends. I'd call your local dealer and get a repair kit if the gouge deep or there was a hole. Otherwise you just sand and buff scratches on an ACP boat. It is not like fiberglass at all. Most of the replies below are good recommendations for fiberglass boats only. If you clean your boat or try to repair it like it was fiberglass you will damage. It goes both ways so don't plan to repair a fiberglass boat as easily as an ACP boat.
That is not what a Hunter Dealer would use. Nor is it what the factory recommends. I'd call your local dealer and get a repair kit if the gouge deep or there was a hole. Otherwise you just sand and buff scratches on an ACP boat. It is not like fiberglass at all. Most of the replies below are good recommendations for fiberglass boats only. If you clean your boat or try to repair it like it was fiberglass you will damage. It goes both ways so don't plan to repair a fiberglass boat as easily as an ACP boat.
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David
No Marine Tex
Follow Frank Ladd's advice. The boat is not fiberglass. Even on fiberglass I would only use Marine Tex below the waterline. It is difficult to work with and is not a good substitute for a well finished epoxy repair.
Follow Frank Ladd's advice. The boat is not fiberglass. Even on fiberglass I would only use Marine Tex below the waterline. It is difficult to work with and is not a good substitute for a well finished epoxy repair.
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crazy dave
Move aside. Let soothsayer speak
Hunter technology sells in a two part stick an item that is called Plexis which you need to get from them.. Remeber the hull material is more of a plastic composition. If you really know the material, there are a couple of other fillers designed for it used by the automotive industry. Check locally at your repair shops. Do not use Marine Tex. Bad advice be given. Sand the scratches well. Fill in with Plexis and then sand smooth. Then lightly sand about two inches around so you can spray paint. Make sure you cover the rest of the boat and then spray paint with Krylon #1501 superwhite. Make sure that you spray several times. Use wet and dry and sand smoothly. Use in the final sanding 400, 600 and then 1000. Compound and wollah. Do it this way and you will be fine. Forget all other comments as you are talking with an expert on this issue. Crazy Dave Condon
Hunter technology sells in a two part stick an item that is called Plexis which you need to get from them.. Remeber the hull material is more of a plastic composition. If you really know the material, there are a couple of other fillers designed for it used by the automotive industry. Check locally at your repair shops. Do not use Marine Tex. Bad advice be given. Sand the scratches well. Fill in with Plexis and then sand smooth. Then lightly sand about two inches around so you can spray paint. Make sure you cover the rest of the boat and then spray paint with Krylon #1501 superwhite. Make sure that you spray several times. Use wet and dry and sand smoothly. Use in the final sanding 400, 600 and then 1000. Compound and wollah. Do it this way and you will be fine. Forget all other comments as you are talking with an expert on this issue. Crazy Dave Condon
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John Radcliff
That seems to agree more with manual
Dave I was hoping that I would see something from you. I was able to order Plexus from a local vendor. Maybe during the week I can make the boat look like new. Thanks, John
Dave I was hoping that I would see something from you. I was able to order Plexus from a local vendor. Maybe during the week I can make the boat look like new. Thanks, John
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