Does the skeg have to be removed to drop the rudder? I've been through the Archives and posts seem to suggest that. Our rudder is still responsive, but under following seas makes a groaning noise. A local contractor says it's a sign of worn rudder post bearings. Of course, there are no real bearings, just a wooden block at the top and who knows what inside the post boot. A review of repairs done by the previous owner shows that the rudder pintle/gudgeon was previously repaired, but offers no details. I am wondering if it is possible to remove the gudgeon from the skeg and drop the rudder. Any guidance would be appreciated.
Removing Rudder-H30
- Thread starter David Popken
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T
Trent
west system Rx for rudder bearing repair
West System's Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance manual describes how to repair worn rudder bearing surfaces the rudder does not have to be removed but it does have to be lowered so that you can apply a mold release agent to the rudder shaft where it contacts the bearings.I have done this on a Santana that I owned with excellent results.
West System's Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance manual describes how to repair worn rudder bearing surfaces the rudder does not have to be removed but it does have to be lowered so that you can apply a mold release agent to the rudder shaft where it contacts the bearings.I have done this on a Santana that I owned with excellent results.
J
John
Yes
Yes, you have to remove the skeg to remove the rudder ( assuming stock setup ). If PO already rebuilt the bottom cup, I'd just leave everything alone. The groaning is ( likely ) from pressure against the upper wooden block, and then when it turns little bits, it makes a noise. Because of the skeg, I don;t think there is really much wear or play at the through hull "bearing". It just spins there. Most of the force is at the 2 ends. ( just my thought, not an engineer ) Open the emergency tiller cover and look at the block. Is it a circle, or getting more like an oval. Is it worn in any areas ( looks burnt ). Is it greased? Does the shaft wobble or is it solid? Also watch while underway, looking for the wobble and listening for the sound. If any of these point to this being the culprit, I'd just get some waterproof grease in there and hope that does the trick. If the block hole is worn, but everything else seems good, I would try to cut a larger diameter hole ( still not pulling the rudder ), then install some type of flanged bearing down from the top. Doesn't have to be ball-bearings, could just be a derlin sleeve or someting that has a flange to screw into the top of the block. Saves pulling the rudder, fixes block problem. I saw some online for sale at about $ 100.00 All this is 20-20 hindsight for me. But I would not pull the rudder for that groaning, too much work and room for error. Good luck. John
Yes, you have to remove the skeg to remove the rudder ( assuming stock setup ). If PO already rebuilt the bottom cup, I'd just leave everything alone. The groaning is ( likely ) from pressure against the upper wooden block, and then when it turns little bits, it makes a noise. Because of the skeg, I don;t think there is really much wear or play at the through hull "bearing". It just spins there. Most of the force is at the 2 ends. ( just my thought, not an engineer ) Open the emergency tiller cover and look at the block. Is it a circle, or getting more like an oval. Is it worn in any areas ( looks burnt ). Is it greased? Does the shaft wobble or is it solid? Also watch while underway, looking for the wobble and listening for the sound. If any of these point to this being the culprit, I'd just get some waterproof grease in there and hope that does the trick. If the block hole is worn, but everything else seems good, I would try to cut a larger diameter hole ( still not pulling the rudder ), then install some type of flanged bearing down from the top. Doesn't have to be ball-bearings, could just be a derlin sleeve or someting that has a flange to screw into the top of the block. Saves pulling the rudder, fixes block problem. I saw some online for sale at about $ 100.00 All this is 20-20 hindsight for me. But I would not pull the rudder for that groaning, too much work and room for error. Good luck. John
J
John
PS
Unfortunately, to do the west system repair on the through hull bearing for this boat, you have to remove the skeg to get enough room to move the rudder in and out to prepare the surface.
Unfortunately, to do the west system repair on the through hull bearing for this boat, you have to remove the skeg to get enough room to move the rudder in and out to prepare the surface.
Skeg bolts are completely rusted!
I went back and checked the skeg bolts from inside and they are completely rusted out. I guess when I haul it (for other reasons), I will look to see if the skeg to hull joint has been glassed over and if it has, not worry about them at present. I will also look at the block at the top of the rudder post. It seems like there should be little or no play in the rudder if all things are in place.
I went back and checked the skeg bolts from inside and they are completely rusted out. I guess when I haul it (for other reasons), I will look to see if the skeg to hull joint has been glassed over and if it has, not worry about them at present. I will also look at the block at the top of the rudder post. It seems like there should be little or no play in the rudder if all things are in place.
J
John
Different story
I have heard from others that you definitely need to replace those rusted skeg bolts ( mine had already been replaced by PO ). That could be allowing the skeg to "flex" which then puts different forces on everything. I would definitely take the rusted bolts out 1 at a time and replace with stainless. In some cases you might have to put a sliver of thin wood or something in the hole to get more bite. Also, with the wearing on the top block, I found in replacing mine, that the surface it mounts to ( underside of the seat ) is not exactly flat (side ot side or front to back ). So what happens is, the hole in the block is at a slightly different angle than perpendicular to the shaft, and so over time ( 20 years ) it wears away the block while turning. Also, in my case, the shaft did not come all the way through the block, only about halfway. This let the top lip of the shaft wear a groove in the block. Good luck. John
I have heard from others that you definitely need to replace those rusted skeg bolts ( mine had already been replaced by PO ). That could be allowing the skeg to "flex" which then puts different forces on everything. I would definitely take the rusted bolts out 1 at a time and replace with stainless. In some cases you might have to put a sliver of thin wood or something in the hole to get more bite. Also, with the wearing on the top block, I found in replacing mine, that the surface it mounts to ( underside of the seat ) is not exactly flat (side ot side or front to back ). So what happens is, the hole in the block is at a slightly different angle than perpendicular to the shaft, and so over time ( 20 years ) it wears away the block while turning. Also, in my case, the shaft did not come all the way through the block, only about halfway. This let the top lip of the shaft wear a groove in the block. Good luck. John
Top Block
Your description of the top block is accurate. Mine is also elliptical after 20+ years and the rudder post does not come all of the way through. It looks as if the original hole was too big for the post as well. It is easy to move the rudder post around with the play in the hole, so I am assuming the bearing point at the bottom of the hull is sloppy too. My skeg bolts are so rusted that ther is no way they will come out willingly. I will have to cut off the nuts and see what happens....
Your description of the top block is accurate. Mine is also elliptical after 20+ years and the rudder post does not come all of the way through. It looks as if the original hole was too big for the post as well. It is easy to move the rudder post around with the play in the hole, so I am assuming the bearing point at the bottom of the hull is sloppy too. My skeg bolts are so rusted that ther is no way they will come out willingly. I will have to cut off the nuts and see what happens....
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