Removing Prop

Dec 9, 2003
55
Hunter 34 Annapolis
I need to remove the two bladed prop on my Hunter 34. I've taken out the cotter pin and the prop nut is now loose. Is there a second nut right next to the prop or is that part of the prop? It does have six sides like it is another nut.

Thank you,

Tom
 

Attachments

Feb 20, 2011
8,059
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
I'm betting that's to provide a surface to wrench against, i.e., the use of two wrenches.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,704
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Take a drill with a wire brush and clean the paint off. If it were a nut they are most often the same size. The thin nut does go on first but please get the paint off so you can get the proper size wrench to fit so you don't strip it..
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,665
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Nuts, If you'll pardon the expression

Well, mine has always had the thin one away from the prop. Maybe that's wrong as the thick one could be torqued more to lock the two in place with out over pressing the prop onto the shaft?? From the picture, you can see mine are the same diameter. Maybe someone lost one of yours?
 

Attachments

Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
2 nuts is normal

2 nuts are the normal way to install a prop. One nut holds the prop on and a jam nut holds the first nut on. Safety wire or a cotter pin holds the jam nut on.

Once the jam nut is off and the prop nut is loose, you need to use a prop puller to loosen the prop. once the prop breaks loose, then remove the nut and propeller. The nut is left on while the prop puller is used to keep it from becoming a projectile when it pops loose.

I hope this helps
Ken
 
Jan 15, 2012
97
Ericson 28/2 Port Kent
Re: 2 nuts is normal

If the entire prop is solid bronze without a plastic shaft adapter and has been in place for years in a salt water environment, you will need to apply a bit of heat to the prop to assist the puller. This will prevent the puller from damaging the prop or the end of the prop shaft. Don't ask me how I know this.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,704
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
He gets all of that correct but leaves out the important aspect of the properly fitting the prop to the shaft taper or what is referred to as "lap fitting" the prop to the shaft. Anytime a new prop is installed onto a shaft they really should be properly lap-fit together. If the prop has already been on that shaft and has previously been lap-fit then no need.

He mentions a prop being key bound as a number one cause of shaft failure and this is likely right up there but a sloppy fitting key, improper nut torque or a shaft that has not been properly lap-fit, and has minimal contact area, can also load the key and fracture the shaft.

Western Branch Metals, the worlds largest prop shafting manufacturer/distributor is in disagreement with that article:

Western branch Metals:

"What is the number one cause of pre-mature shaft failure?

Based on our experiences, improper propeller fit is the primary cause of pre-mature shaft failures. A properly mated propeller will reduce fatigue and avoid propeller wobble, two very key issues in ensuring smooth operation of the vessel.

Installation
The propeller should always be properly mated to the shaft taper. To insure the best fit, the taper should be coated with Prussian blue. The propeller should then be put on without the key and turned slowly by hand. If inspection of the shaft taper indicates the Prussian blue is uniformly removed then the propeller fit is good. If not, use an appropriate lapping compound and repeat the test.

Avoid key pressing against forward position of sled-runner keyway.

Do not use graphite packing in the stuffing box. Instead, use a packing material that causes the least abrasion after the lubricant wears away. Be sure to adjust the stuffing box with the clutch disengaged to avoid excessive tightness.

Align the shaft after the boat is in the water. Don't force the shaft to accommodate the engine bed, bearings, or stuffing box. Stuffing boxes should be permitted to leak slightly, thereby avoiding a stagnant water condition in the packing gland area and to avoid overheating during operation. Generally, seven drops per minute is adequate for small diameter shafts. Increased amounts are advisable for larger diameters. "