Removing keel crank handle

[Tarkus]

I would like to remove the crank cover board and cut and finish a new one. The crank however needs to be removed. I'm not sure how to remove it. Should I put a vice grip on the center thingy and turn the handle clockwise or CCW or is there another way? Also, the screw in the top right part of the pic has stripped out of the fiberglass. Once I get the board off should I feed slow 2 part epoxy into the hole and re drill so the screw will stay in? Any thoughts? Thanks for any help.

 

[rpludwig]

someone asked this not too long ago, IIRC the handle just screws off (a close look at the threads should give you a clue as to which direction), but others will chime in. Yes to the stripped out screw, fill with thickened epoxy and drill smaller hole...

 

[Lazy1]

Mine comes off CCW more easily than I prefer. If I try to lower the keel too fast the handle will come off in my hand.
It's an '86

 

[Tarkus]

someone asked this not too long ago, IIRC the handle just screws off (a close look at the threads should give you a clue as to which direction), but others will chime in. Yes to the stripped out screw, fill with thickened epoxy and drill smaller hole...

Excuse my ignorance but what does IIRC stand for? thx

 

[kappykaplan]

@Tarkus - If I Recall Correctly

 

[Ben4195]

Yes, I believe I'm the one who asked that not too long ago (unless two of us asked), and the nice folks here explained, as Lazy1 did, that simply turning the handle counter-clockwise does the trick. Worked for me!

 

[Tarkus]

Yes, I believe I'm the one who asked that not too long ago (unless two of us asked), and the nice folks here explained, as Lazy1 did, that simply turning the handle counter-clockwise does the trick. Worked for me!

Thanks Ben

 

[Jacomo Sailor]

For what it's worth, you may want to consider leaving the board off altogether. It serves no purpose other than cosmetic, and it blocks off a lot of usable space. I personally think it looks better without it. You'll find that without it there is more toe room (I was constantly kicking mine when stepping out of the cabin) and it is easier to get into the bilge compartment. My vhf radio is mounted under the threshold to port of the winch, very accessible but completely out of the way. My depth finder/chart plotter lives behind the cable tube when not in use, I stow a citronella bug candle below the radio and my flip-flops are usually parked on the other side. All of this is behind where the board was, so not protruding out in the way, and there is still room to toss small items temporarily that I don't want underfoot, but need within easy reach from the cockpit (sunscreen, bug spay, bag of snacks, etc.). This would also be a great spot to mount a handheld spotlight or maybe emergency items like a first aid kit, air horn and flare gun.

 

[Jacktar]

Its actual purpose is to have a place for the lock the keel when lowered sticker put on at the factory (the locking thing being a source of much comment on this forum pro and con.). One of those strange little catalina things like the hum from the cable.

 

[Tarkus]

someone asked this not too long ago, IIRC the handle just screws off (a close look at the threads should give you a clue as to which direction), but others will chime in. Yes to the stripped out screw, fill with thickened epoxy and drill smaller hole...

Is "thickened epoxy" the same as the 2 part slow curing epoxy sold at Lowe's or do I add something to it to thicken it? Or, is it a special marine grade epoxy? Thanks for your help.

 

[AaronD]

Is "thickened epoxy" the same as the 2 part slow curing epoxy sold at Lowe's or do I add something to it to thicken it? Or, is it a special marine grade epoxy? Thanks for your help.

Epoxy itself is a strong adhesive, but pretty brittle, so you want to add something with a little more structure if you're screwing into it. West System makes a whole line of fillers - colloidal silica (406) is my default. And yes, I recommend using a marine epoxy with some way to measure the mix more precisely than the little push-button dispensers you get at the hardware store. I've always used West System; I've also heard good things about MAS, and I'm sure there are other reliable brands as well.

 

[Tarkus]

Epoxy itself is a strong adhesive, but pretty brittle, so you want to add something with a little more structure if you're screwing into it. West System makes a whole line of fillers - colloidal silica (406) is my default. And yes, I recommend using a marine epoxy with some way to measure the mix more precisely than the little push-button dispensers you get at the hardware store. I've always used West System; I've also heard good things about MAS, and I'm sure there are other reliable brands as well.

Thanks

 

[rpludwig]

always good to keep some of these on hand for small repairs....

Repair Kits | WEST SYSTEM

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West System Epoxy Small Repair Kit

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