removing cutlass

[pethia]

I have a cherubini 27 1978. I would like to remove the cutlass. Has anyone out there had luck with removing the prop, unbolting the through bolts on the cutlass (which hold it to the hull) and sliding the cutlass back and off w/out dropping the rudder?
Thanks,
John

 

[Allan12210]

I think you are refering to removing the strut to gain access to the cutlass bearing. You have to be very careful that the strut goes back into the exact same position from where it came. Otherwise, you run the risk of it becoming misaligned to the shaft and resulting in even faster wear of the cutlass bearing. Here is a link to a tool you can have built, or make yourself that removes the cutlass bearing without removing the shaft. Your dimensions may differ as this one is specific to a 1 inch shaft. Search the archives for cutlass bearing removal and you will find others who have done this themselves.


http://www.catalina310.org/Maintenance/Maintenance/Cutlass_bearing/Cutlassbearingremovaltool.htm

Allan

 

[pethia]

do you know if it will clear the rudder for removal?

Alan,
I guess the real question here is ...will the cutlass strut come off w/out the rudder being removed?

I think you are refering to removing the strut to gain access to the cutlass bearing. You have to be very careful that the strut goes back into the exact same position from where it came. Otherwise, you run the risk of it becoming misaligned to the shaft and resulting in even faster wear of the cutlass bearing. Here is a link to a tool you can have built, or make yourself that removes the cutlass bearing without removing the shaft. Your dimensions may differ as this one is specific to a 1 inch shaft. Search the archives for cutlass bearing removal and you will find others who have done this themselves.


http://www.catalina310.org/Maintenance/Maintenance/Cutlass_bearing/Cutlassbearingremovaltool.htm

Allan

 

[Ed Schenck]

Yes. . . .I think. Isn't the H27 strut the 'Y' type where the top of the Y goes around the hull? I ask because that kind of strut is hard to misalign when you bolt it back on.

At any rate the strut is only four inches front to back. So that is how much room you need between the end of the shaft and the rudder.

This same subject for the same boat was just discussed a few days ago. And the removal tool was suggested. You could try that. I hope someone will let us know if that works on one of these old struts.

P.S. If your strut is part number 2010(http://www.dahmermarine.com/Struts.htm) then you need less than three inches.

 

[pethia]

You are exactly right...it is a Y strut. I am thinking of unbolting it, pulling it and rebedding the bolts with hopes of re-alligning.
Thanks,

 

[Steve Dion]

You know that you will probably be better off having a yard do this for you. It is quite often a 1-2 hr job. The yard has the tools and the know how.

 

[richk]

I went through the same mental gyrations as you earlier this year considering how to replace the cutlass bearing on my H35. I didn't have to pull the rudder. I pulled the prop off; loosened the set screws on the strut which secure the bearing; soaked the remaining assembly in penetrating oil; used a small, flat bladed screwdriver or file, gently tapping it with a hammer against the old bearing, which slid off. Reverse the process with the new bearing. Voila!

 

[Warren Milberg]

When I replaced the cutlass on my H28.5, I dropped the strut and took it and the shaft and prop home to work on. I knew I'd have to drill out the corroded set screws in the strut that hold the cutlass in place and that I'd have to tap new screw holes. Biggest plus for doing it this way is that you have a warm place to work and you have all your tools nearby (on most major projects, I always forget to bring something or other to the yard....).

Once the new bearing was in the strut, I simply replaced the shaft and re-bed and bolted the strut into place. While I did check the engine alignment, using the old (4) holes for mounting the strut sort of ensures you'll have the same alignment as before as long as the holes have not been damaged in the process. Hardest part of the job doing it this way is disconnecting the transmission coupler.